P1135....then P0136!!
#1
Intermediate
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Got the P1135 code a while back & replaced the rear air/fuel sensor on the exhaust before the cat.
Cleared the codes out and after driving for a while got another cel.
Now its a P0136. Is this the O2 sensor after the cat???
Am I going to get another code for the third and final sensor after I replace this one??? ARRRRRGGGGHHHH!!!!
What has everyones experience been with these codes and sensors???
Cleared the codes out and after driving for a while got another cel.
Now its a P0136. Is this the O2 sensor after the cat???
Am I going to get another code for the third and final sensor after I replace this one??? ARRRRRGGGGHHHH!!!!
What has everyones experience been with these codes and sensors???
#2
Lexus Champion
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Got the P1135 code a while back & replaced the rear air/fuel sensor on the exhaust before the cat.
Cleared the codes out and after driving for a while got another cel.
Now its a P0136. Is this the O2 sensor after the cat???
Am I going to get another code for the third and final sensor after I replace this one??? ARRRRRGGGGHHHH!!!!
What has everyones experience been with these codes and sensors???
Cleared the codes out and after driving for a while got another cel.
Now its a P0136. Is this the O2 sensor after the cat???
Am I going to get another code for the third and final sensor after I replace this one??? ARRRRRGGGGHHHH!!!!
What has everyones experience been with these codes and sensors???
Last edited by code58; 11-24-09 at 11:15 PM.
#3
Intermediate
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BTW my rx is an 02' with 158,000 miles on it.
I find it interesting that many people recommend clearing the codes and then see if they come back. Or clearing them out and adding fuel system cleaner and running higher octane fuel.
I need to get this car inspected ASAP but she won't pass with a CEL.
I have disconnected the battery overnight and added some Lucas fuel system treatment and I'm going to fill up with super. I normally run standard 87 octane.
How long after clearing the codes should I wait to be sure all is well. 100 miles? 200 miles??
I find it interesting that many people recommend clearing the codes and then see if they come back. Or clearing them out and adding fuel system cleaner and running higher octane fuel.
I need to get this car inspected ASAP but she won't pass with a CEL.
I have disconnected the battery overnight and added some Lucas fuel system treatment and I'm going to fill up with super. I normally run standard 87 octane.
How long after clearing the codes should I wait to be sure all is well. 100 miles? 200 miles??
#4
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Today take that RX somewhere that you can get some quick takeoffs, taking you above 4,000 rpm and see if it comes back. I should mention that sometimes adding fuel system cleaner prior to a tailpipe test can lead to some issues on the readings (but normally I would recommend it, too). Usually, you should notice something with this particular code (if you did the quick takeoffs) after about 5 to 6 minutes. It's definitely focus on the sensor itself and not some connection or the vehicle ECM, that's what P0141 is for.
If it were me and it kept confounding me, I'd actually physically remove the sensor itself and take a look at anything out of the ordinary as sometimes some deposits or layering can build up on it.
If it were me and it kept confounding me, I'd actually physically remove the sensor itself and take a look at anything out of the ordinary as sometimes some deposits or layering can build up on it.
#5
Intermediate
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Today take that RX somewhere that you can get some quick takeoffs, taking you above 4,000 rpm and see if it comes back. I should mention that sometimes adding fuel system cleaner prior to a tailpipe test can lead to some issues on the readings (but normally I would recommend it, too). Usually, you should notice something with this particular code (if you did the quick takeoffs) after about 5 to 6 minutes. It's definitely focus on the sensor itself and not some connection or the vehicle ECM, that's what P0141 is for.
If it were me and it kept confounding me, I'd actually physically remove the sensor itself and take a look at anything out of the ordinary as sometimes some deposits or layering can build up on it.
If it were me and it kept confounding me, I'd actually physically remove the sensor itself and take a look at anything out of the ordinary as sometimes some deposits or layering can build up on it.
I haven't looked at the o2 sensor mounting on my vehicle but I'm afraid the New York winters may have taken a toll on the mounting screws.
What I'm leaning toward doing is replacing not only the o2 sensor but the front bank air/fuel sensor as well and be done with it. I want to get 250k out of this vehicle so I figured replace them all.
The only thing is if after that I get a code for a bad cat I'll probably jump off a bridge!!
#6
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So I only got about 30 miles before the P0136 code came back. How hard is it to change the o2 sensor vs the rear bank air/fuel sensor I already changed??
I haven't looked at the o2 sensor mounting on my vehicle but I'm afraid the New York winters may have taken a toll on the mounting screws.
What I'm leaning toward doing is replacing not only the o2 sensor but the front bank air/fuel sensor as well and be done with it. I want to get 250k out of this vehicle so I figured replace them all.
The only thing is if after that I get a code for a bad cat I'll probably jump off a bridge!!
I haven't looked at the o2 sensor mounting on my vehicle but I'm afraid the New York winters may have taken a toll on the mounting screws.
What I'm leaning toward doing is replacing not only the o2 sensor but the front bank air/fuel sensor as well and be done with it. I want to get 250k out of this vehicle so I figured replace them all.
The only thing is if after that I get a code for a bad cat I'll probably jump off a bridge!!
#7
Intermediate
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#8
Lexus Champion
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It looks like the studs are stainless steel. Use an acetylene torch to heat what is left of the nuts and remove them with the needle nose vice-grips while they are red hot. (gotta work fast) Acetylene torch is called a hot wrench in cold (rust) country. IT DOES WORK! It will expand the nut and release the rust but you have to do it while the nut is still red. If you wait 15 seconds, the nut cools, shrinks and again locks on. You don't have to worry about getting the sensor out because the new sensor comes with a new plate to screw it into. A muffler shop might be able to help you out if you don't have an acetylene torch.
#9
Intermediate
Thread Starter
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It looks like the studs are stainless steel. Use an acetylene torch to heat what is left of the nuts and remove them with the needle nose vice-grips while they are red hot. (gotta work fast) Acetylene torch is called a hot wrench in cold (rust) country. IT DOES WORK! It will expand the nut and release the rust but you have to do it while the nut is still red. If you wait 15 seconds, the nut cools, shrinks and again locks on. You don't have to worry about getting the sensor out because the new sensor comes with a new plate to screw it into. A muffler shop might be able to help you out if you don't have an acetylene torch.
Thanks!!
#10
Intermediate
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Well all I had to do to get the sensor off was pull on the heat shield with a pair of pliers. With no screws left the only thing that was holding the entire assemble together was rust. Now I just have to clean up the threads and get new screws from Lexus.
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