RX300 OEM roof rails
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RX300 OEM roof rails
I just inherited a 1999 RX300 (with 16,000 miles). It doesn't have roof rails, and I'd like to add them, but Web searches turn up only aftermarket kits that require drilling holes in the roof. Is there a source for OEM roof rails that don't require drilling holes?
Thanks,
Martin
Thanks,
Martin
#2
Welcome to Club Lexus.
I think I need to clarify my definitions. There are the channels that hold the roof racks, that run from front to back on both sides of the roof. Then, there are the two roof rack bars, that run from left to right side of the RX, that fit into the channels. These two OEM roof rack bars have ***** on them that tighten them down to the channel, once you get them in the position you want.
The realistic options for purchasing are eBay and auto recyclers (i.e., junk yards), or both since a lot of recyclers sell on eBay.
Note that the rated weight limit for the roof top bars is only something like 70pounds, so it is not intended for heavy loads.
I think I need to clarify my definitions. There are the channels that hold the roof racks, that run from front to back on both sides of the roof. Then, there are the two roof rack bars, that run from left to right side of the RX, that fit into the channels. These two OEM roof rack bars have ***** on them that tighten them down to the channel, once you get them in the position you want.
The realistic options for purchasing are eBay and auto recyclers (i.e., junk yards), or both since a lot of recyclers sell on eBay.
Note that the rated weight limit for the roof top bars is only something like 70pounds, so it is not intended for heavy loads.
#3
Instructor
The bars that came with the first batch of 1999 RX300 were woefully inadequate; they were sort of spindly and sat up fairly high. Lexus soon changed the design to something more squat, closer to the roof, and more substantial. Be sure you get the latter.
#4
I took my racks off and put them on my wifes' RX. The roof racks on her RX had paint peeling, and mine looked new. I just threw her roof racks in the corner of the garage in case I need to haul some feather pillows on top some day.
#5
Moderator
I just inherited a 1999 RX300 (with 16,000 miles). It doesn't have roof rails, and I'd like to add them, but Web searches turn up only aftermarket kits that require drilling holes in the roof. Is there a source for OEM roof rails that don't require drilling holes?
Thanks,
Martin
Thanks,
Martin
If you decide to go with a drill option, invest in a good carrier as you want the best possible hardware to prevent leaks.
I would suggest adding a hitch and pulling a small trailer. With the hitch, you can even have various attachments made specific to your need.
I have seen some pictures of make shift roof carriers which clamp the door edge. They can damage the seal and the roof lining.
Salim
#7
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Welcome to Club Lexus.
I think I need to clarify my definitions. There are the channels that hold the roof racks, that run from front to back on both sides of the roof. Then, there are the two roof rack bars, that run from left to right side of the RX, that fit into the channels. These two OEM roof rack bars have ***** on them that tighten them down to the channel, once you get them in the position you want.
The realistic options for purchasing are eBay and auto recyclers (i.e., junk yards), or both since a lot of recyclers sell on eBay.
Note that the rated weight limit for the roof top bars is only something like 70pounds, so it is not intended for heavy loads.
I think I need to clarify my definitions. There are the channels that hold the roof racks, that run from front to back on both sides of the roof. Then, there are the two roof rack bars, that run from left to right side of the RX, that fit into the channels. These two OEM roof rack bars have ***** on them that tighten them down to the channel, once you get them in the position you want.
The realistic options for purchasing are eBay and auto recyclers (i.e., junk yards), or both since a lot of recyclers sell on eBay.
Note that the rated weight limit for the roof top bars is only something like 70pounds, so it is not intended for heavy loads.
Trending Topics
#8
Moderator
So you do have the rails [front to back near the doors] and need slats [they run across] . You dont need to drill any thing in this case ... simply look for the missing hardware on ebay etc.
Salim
Salim
#10
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#11
Lead Lap
iTrader: (2)
Depending on when in 1999 the car was produced, it could have either the first generation "roof rack" (with 4-5 bumper strips going from front to back between the rails at either side) or the second generation (with no bumper rails). The two crossbar sets shown on e-bay fit the second generation - I don't know if they fit the first generation - they may.
#12
Moderator
^^ The very early '99 had front to back strips [scuff protection]. Some owners thought they can put stuff directly on top of those strips and the roof could not support the weight. Lexus quickly stopped [If I am not mistaken, just like Toyota, the add on were attached some where in middle-east and not in Japan].
Salim
Salim
#13
I have a 2003 RX300 with roof rack. I also have a 17 foot fiberglass canoe about 100 pounds. I used to haul around the canoe with a MB 300SD with clamp-on roof top carriers. Now with the RX, I have a few concerns. The front to back distance between the cross bars is only a few feet. With a17 foot canoe, they become more of a pivot point rather than a stable support. With no front or rear tie downs, I fear that the canoe (hauled upside down, will capture the air coming up over the windshield and "inflate" the canoe with 55+ mph air pressure tearing it off the roof. If I built a cradle to hold the canoe right side up, that pressure would be greatly reduced. Still no front and back tie downs to prevent lifting. I have a trailer hitch, but no trailer. I was thinking of buying a "T" type gizmo that goes into the hitch where the "T" is a third cross member. With a little jury rigging, I might be able to get this to work. So, the bottom line is that I'd like to take the canoe relatively short distances, about 20 miles, but am afraid to actually try it. I am concerned about the lifting and the strength of the carrier to not rip off. Does anyone have any experience with a situation such as mine?
Dr Dan
Dr Dan
#14
Not to depart from the subject.......
But do any forum members know where I can purchase the little "tie-down eyes" that slip into the slots in the roof rails so you can have some means of securing items on the roof. They are moveable so you can slide them back and forth in the rails.
I have a 2002 RX and although I might never use them, they might come in handy just in case.
Thanks' in advance for any input.
But do any forum members know where I can purchase the little "tie-down eyes" that slip into the slots in the roof rails so you can have some means of securing items on the roof. They are moveable so you can slide them back and forth in the rails.
I have a 2002 RX and although I might never use them, they might come in handy just in case.
Thanks' in advance for any input.
#15
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: May 2011
Location: WI
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a 2003 RX300 with roof rack. I also have a 17 foot fiberglass canoe about 100 pounds. I used to haul around the canoe with a MB 300SD with clamp-on roof top carriers. Now with the RX, I have a few concerns. The front to back distance between the cross bars is only a few feet. With a17 foot canoe, they become more of a pivot point rather than a stable support. With no front or rear tie downs, I fear that the canoe (hauled upside down, will capture the air coming up over the windshield and "inflate" the canoe with 55+ mph air pressure tearing it off the roof. If I built a cradle to hold the canoe right side up, that pressure would be greatly reduced. Still no front and back tie downs to prevent lifting. I have a trailer hitch, but no trailer. I was thinking of buying a "T" type gizmo that goes into the hitch where the "T" is a third cross member. With a little jury rigging, I might be able to get this to work. So, the bottom line is that I'd like to take the canoe relatively short distances, about 20 miles, but am afraid to actually try it. I am concerned about the lifting and the strength of the carrier to not rip off. Does anyone have any experience with a situation such as mine?
Dr Dan
Dr Dan