High RPM's before shifting
#1
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High RPM's before shifting
I have a '99 RX300 with approx. 140K miles on it.
I noticed when shifting from 3rd-4th gear that the RPM's got really high >4000 before shifting and it wasn't very consistent on the actual RPM that it shifted on.
A friend of mind told me about a BG transmission service, so I thought I would try to see if that would help, and it did for about a week and now it is worse than ever.
I checked my ATF fluid today and it was fine.
Any ideas or suggestions as to what I need to do?
GRRRRRR!
I noticed when shifting from 3rd-4th gear that the RPM's got really high >4000 before shifting and it wasn't very consistent on the actual RPM that it shifted on.
A friend of mind told me about a BG transmission service, so I thought I would try to see if that would help, and it did for about a week and now it is worse than ever.
I checked my ATF fluid today and it was fine.
Any ideas or suggestions as to what I need to do?
GRRRRRR!
#2
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Please better describe the BG Transmission Service. Was it a transmission flush? What type of transmission fluid did they use? What do you mean by the fluid is fine?
Please better describe the BG Transmission Service. Was it a transmission flush? What type of transmission fluid did they use? What do you mean by the fluid is fine?
#3
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You can tell I'm a noobie... Sorry!
Here is the info on the BG Transmission Service: This is direct quote from their site: Solution:
Rather than just removing the fluid found in the bottom of the pan, the entire transmission is cleaned and replenished with the use of special equipment. The transmission and its torque converter have all of their old contaminated fluid removed while new fluid and premium conditioners are added.
One of the hardest working parts of your vehicle will shift smoothly and effortlessly for many more trouble-free miles.[/I]
Here is a link to more info: http://www.bgfindashop.com/bgservices/transmission.htm
They used a Toyota Type IV fluid.
On the dipstick for the ATF fluid there is a COLD and a HOT etched on the stick. Between each of those words, there are notches on the stick. When I checked the stick after driving it. The ATF fluid was at the top notch of the "HOT" section of the stick.
Hope this clarifies. Let me know if I need to tell you more.
Thanks for looking.
Here is the info on the BG Transmission Service: This is direct quote from their site: Solution:
Rather than just removing the fluid found in the bottom of the pan, the entire transmission is cleaned and replenished with the use of special equipment. The transmission and its torque converter have all of their old contaminated fluid removed while new fluid and premium conditioners are added.
One of the hardest working parts of your vehicle will shift smoothly and effortlessly for many more trouble-free miles.[/I]
Here is a link to more info: http://www.bgfindashop.com/bgservices/transmission.htm
They used a Toyota Type IV fluid.
On the dipstick for the ATF fluid there is a COLD and a HOT etched on the stick. Between each of those words, there are notches on the stick. When I checked the stick after driving it. The ATF fluid was at the top notch of the "HOT" section of the stick.
Hope this clarifies. Let me know if I need to tell you more.
Thanks for looking.
#4
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I'd pull off the battery cables to reset the system, reconnect them, and then take a 15 minute drive with a 50/50 mix of city highway, (be sure to get above 55 mph at least once) and then see how it is after a few days.
I remember frequently in Mexico hitting higher than normal rpms on the road.
I remember frequently in Mexico hitting higher than normal rpms on the road.
#5
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I'd pull off the battery cables to reset the system, reconnect them, and then take a 15 minute drive with a 50/50 mix of city highway, (be sure to get above 55 mph at least once) and then see how it is after a few days.
I remember frequently in Mexico hitting higher than normal rpms on the road.
I remember frequently in Mexico hitting higher than normal rpms on the road.
#6
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#7
Moderator
It may be worth rewriting here ...
1. Any transmission issue or concern must be at operating temperature [not just engine idled till it gets to 1/2 way between hot and cold.] You need to drive for about 20 minutes or so.
2. Checking transmission fluid level is hard. You need to be sure that it is at cold mark right after the fill. The drive for 20 min or so. Bring the vehicle to a flat/level surface. Keep the engine running and apply brake and rove the shifter through each position and hold in each for about 10sec. Then bring it to "P" and with the engine idling check the fluid level again. You will have to wipe the stick number of time to make sure you get the proper read.
I have practically given up on this practice and simply measure the drained fluid and fill the same amount. With normal drain [drain the pan and drain the transfer case] , on my FWD it takes 4 bottles and for a pan-drop and filter clean up, it takes 5.
I dont think the power flush is a good idea. Others may agree or disagree.
Salim
1. Any transmission issue or concern must be at operating temperature [not just engine idled till it gets to 1/2 way between hot and cold.] You need to drive for about 20 minutes or so.
2. Checking transmission fluid level is hard. You need to be sure that it is at cold mark right after the fill. The drive for 20 min or so. Bring the vehicle to a flat/level surface. Keep the engine running and apply brake and rove the shifter through each position and hold in each for about 10sec. Then bring it to "P" and with the engine idling check the fluid level again. You will have to wipe the stick number of time to make sure you get the proper read.
I have practically given up on this practice and simply measure the drained fluid and fill the same amount. With normal drain [drain the pan and drain the transfer case] , on my FWD it takes 4 bottles and for a pan-drop and filter clean up, it takes 5.
I dont think the power flush is a good idea. Others may agree or disagree.
Salim
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#8
Lexus Test Driver
I agree with Lexmex go ahead and take off the battery cables to reset the setting's. Just so you know you will have to set up your seat,radio presets and clock again. I personally don't like any type of oil flush for the transmission. I feel that it usually clogs up the filter after the debris go through the valves. A simple drain and fill with changing the filter every 20-30k is good enough.
If your problem exists after resetting the ECU by removing the battery cables, I suggest that you perform a drain and fill and look at the condition of the filter to see if it has been clogged by the "tranny sludge" released from the flush.
If your problem exists after resetting the ECU by removing the battery cables, I suggest that you perform a drain and fill and look at the condition of the filter to see if it has been clogged by the "tranny sludge" released from the flush.
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