RX - 1st Gen (1999-2003) Discussion topics related to the 1999 -2003 RX300 models

RPM's nearly doubled after IACV cleaning! HELP!

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Old 04-23-10, 09:42 PM
  #16  
EnzoRX
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DarwinX,

I had similar troubles after cleaning my IACV. After I cleaned it out a few times, my RPM's at idle and when sitting in traffic at a stoplight, were high.

I ended up just buying a new IACV and had my independent mechanic put it in. I have not had any more problems with a high idle and the RX runs just like new again.

If you need the part numbers, shoot me a PM. Good luck with the fix!
Old 04-24-10, 06:32 AM
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Lexmex
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Originally Posted by DarwinX
Well, about 6 months ago, I killed the MAF as well. That's just how I roll. lol I re cleaned the IACV today using electric circuit cleaner, and sure enough the problem seem to have been settled, but now I get yet another pd CEL code - P0133 along with the original P0125 + P1135 +P1130. Also, the RPM's are at exactly 1,000 in Park and just below that in Drive, still seems a little high as it used to be around 700 at idle. The actual magnet controller was twisting with difficulty initially but then loosened up. Originally, it rolled both ways quite smoothly so I blame everything on the degreaser I used. Another note, I am hearing a slight hissing noise which sounds like Air, so could it be the pump? I left nothing disconnected! I did reset the ECU, perhaps there is a learning curve.
Thank You for all of your valuable input, please provide further advice if available.
There's a small rubber ring that goes around that screw you turn in the IACV. Make sure that's in there. The IACV can be a major PITA, more an annoyance, because I find myself at least once a month opening it up to turn the screw and clean it.

I'd wait a bit and drive the vehicle to see if things improve, there is a bit of a learning curve.
Old 04-27-10, 03:15 AM
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DarwinX
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I took out both the rubber seal and the metal ring in order to clean the IACV as it was no longer turning smoothly after the crappy engine cleaner I used in the previous cleaning. The electronic circuitry cleaner was recommended by NAPA and did a far better job at cleaning than anything else, it also leaves NO residue of any kind and dries nearly instantly! Perfect for such jobs... Thanks for all the advice.
Old 05-03-10, 08:28 AM
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Benjamin T
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sigh.

i've been having this problem since last november. i posted about it elsewhere here. an indie mechanic diagnosed it as the IACV valve, and i ordered the parts from lexusparts.com, but when the parts arrived he no longer wanted to do it (no longer had the time because he had joined a new shop) , which forced me to go to the dealer, who made their own diagnosis and said it was some sort of vaccum issue. i ended up having to return the part and go with my dealer's claims... well, $980 later in dealer costs plus whatever i lost sending the IACV back to stevenson and now i'm back to idling at 1100rpm and the car keeps thinking it's accelerating so it never goes into 4th anymore. i won't even mention that vicious jerking whenever i try to shift into reverse or drive from high rpms... fail

Last edited by Benjamin T; 05-03-10 at 08:31 AM.
Old 05-03-10, 12:59 PM
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artbuc
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Originally Posted by Benjamin T
sigh.

i've been having this problem since last november. i posted about it elsewhere here. an indie mechanic diagnosed it as the IACV valve, and i ordered the parts from lexusparts.com, but when the parts arrived he no longer wanted to do it (no longer had the time because he had joined a new shop) , which forced me to go to the dealer, who made their own diagnosis and said it was some sort of vaccum issue. i ended up having to return the part and go with my dealer's claims... well, $980 later in dealer costs plus whatever i lost sending the IACV back to stevenson and now i'm back to idling at 1100rpm and the car keeps thinking it's accelerating so it never goes into 4th anymore. i won't even mention that vicious jerking whenever i try to shift into reverse or drive from high rpms... fail
The Lexus stealership strikes again.
Old 05-04-10, 12:07 AM
  #21  
code58
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Originally Posted by Benjamin T
sigh.

i've been having this problem since last november. i posted about it elsewhere here. an indie mechanic diagnosed it as the IACV valve, and i ordered the parts from lexusparts.com, but when the parts arrived he no longer wanted to do it (no longer had the time because he had joined a new shop) , which forced me to go to the dealer, who made their own diagnosis and said it was some sort of vaccum issue. i ended up having to return the part and go with my dealer's claims... well, $980 later in dealer costs plus whatever i lost sending the IACV back to stevenson and now i'm back to idling at 1100rpm and the car keeps thinking it's accelerating so it never goes into 4th anymore. i won't even mention that vicious jerking whenever i try to shift into reverse or drive from high rpms... fail
They're the ones who diagnosed it differently than your indie mechanic did and then charged you an arm and a leg to do it (can we all in unison say FAIL!) Do they bear no responsibility in this??? I would go straight to the owner and demand my money back. I thought it was only Doctors who got to FAIL and still get paid for it! That gives new meaning to UNACCEPTABLE! If you don't currently have a "pair", grow one real quick and don't go away til you get what's acceptable, no matter how long their nose grows!
Old 05-04-10, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Benjamin T
sigh.

i've been having this problem since last november. i posted about it elsewhere here. an indie mechanic diagnosed it as the IACV valve, and i ordered the parts from lexusparts.com, but when the parts arrived he no longer wanted to do it (no longer had the time because he had joined a new shop) , which forced me to go to the dealer, who made their own diagnosis and said it was some sort of vaccum issue. i ended up having to return the part and go with my dealer's claims... well, $980 later in dealer costs plus whatever i lost sending the IACV back to stevenson and now i'm back to idling at 1100rpm and the car keeps thinking it's accelerating so it never goes into 4th anymore. i won't even mention that vicious jerking whenever i try to shift into reverse or drive from high rpms... fail
Please do not mix the two issues [even though they affect your bottom line].
At this time you should go back to the dealer and say they failed to fix the issue. It would have been lot better if you had said it at the time when you drove off the repair facility.

Unfortunately, they may go through another set of sensors and you may get into the discussion about the previous fix (or repair which ended up in nothing fixed). What was/is really needed and what gets replaced is always gray area. The dealership may take some money off, but expect to pay more.

Salim
Old 05-04-10, 10:07 AM
  #23  
DarwinX
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Incompetence + Greed = Lexus (among others).

Welcome to the USA, Inc.
Old 05-04-10, 02:32 PM
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salimshah
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Is this a statement based on certain experience at the dealership or a unsatisfied customer?

I have had mostly good/better experience at Lexus. This seems to be echoed by most of the posts that I have seen in CL Forum.

Salim
Old 05-05-10, 03:08 AM
  #25  
DarwinX
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I was referring to the dealers of the Lexus brand, not Toyota as a company. Here in Jacksonville, there is only one Lexus dealership and it does indeed lack competence.

Is it difficult to replace the IACV? My problem was resolved with proper cleaning of said valve, yet I'd still like to know for personal reference. Thanks.
Old 05-05-10, 06:53 AM
  #26  
thomas1
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The IACV is easy to replace...Took it apart when I cleaned it....
Old 05-05-10, 09:34 AM
  #27  
salimshah
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Originally Posted by DarwinX
I was referring to the dealers of the Lexus brand, not Toyota as a company. Here in Jacksonville, there is only one Lexus dealership and it does indeed lack competence.

Is it difficult to replace the IACV? My problem was resolved with proper cleaning of said valve, yet I'd still like to know for personal reference. Thanks.
If you look at the DIY instructions, it is fairly easy (other than undoing the soft head screws). If you intend to replace the whole valve, you dont need to undo the small screws. It is much easier if the throttle body [TB] is off, but then you are spending extra time in taking the TB off and then have to put it back on.

With only one dealership around you are locked in. I would still suggest work with your service writer and try to get the best mechanic on the job. I dont expect master tech to work on your vehicle, but can be used to consult.

Salim
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