That is exactly the method used to diagnose and fix my vibration above 70mph.

 

One nice thing about FWD is that you can pull the wheels and use a large screw driver in the opening on the caliper (where you can see the rotor) and pry back JUST A LITTLE to release the pad pressure on the rotors and if the vibration goes away you're pretty sure that sticking calipers (of whatever sort) are the problem. Just make sure you don't use the brakes until you're done with diagnosis or you're back to zero.
One thing I can't stand is vibration of any kind. On the freeway today I saw a Dodge mini van with about 45 series tires (on the back only) that literally looked like the were both coming off the ground (but not in sinc.) Can't even imagine what that would be like to ride in.

 

2ks,

Did you find out what was causing the problem? I am having the same issue with my 2000 RX300. Front to back tire rotation and balance didn't resolve my issue either. I have had the tires balanced twice in the last 10 days and still have the save problem. I would think that if it was the tires our of balance, that the shake in the steering wheel would be constant at speeds > 65mph, but it isn't. The shake comes and goes. Any other ideas???

Kirk

 

I have two cars that do this - 2001 BMW 530i and 1999 Lexus RX300. I have no idea why the vibration comes and goes as I'm driving at a constant speed. I thought it might be some kind of harmonic/resonance as two wheels came in and out of sync, or perhaps even the road I drive on (but my other cars don't have this problem on the same stretch of road).

I hate vibrations, too!

 

If tires are balanced the best they can be, if you have determined there is no brake/caliper hang up. Only one thing remains to do. Find a shop that has a Hunter GSP9700 Road Force Machine, that will determine if you have a dent in one or more of the rims, which is not visible to your eye, or your tires are defective (belts out of round etc.)
Here is a link to find a machine near you. http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/search/findgsp9700.cfm

I will bet you find it's either the rims or tires, my money is on the tires.

 

I have a 2001 RX300 with the same issue. Tire balance and rotation didnt help. The shaking comes and goes. Anyone else figure out a fix to this issue?

 

Read my post on the problem I had with the Yokohama's on my wife's '02 Camry several years ago. It was impossible to balance them and the imbalance was cyclical. Put up with it for 18K mi. (3 balances with huge effort on #2 & 3) and had them change to Michelins before I totally lost my mind. The Michelins were smooth as silk. The problem was in the design of the structure of the tire.

 

I had that problem above 65 mph with the 2001 RX300 I acquired recently from my daughter. I replaced the worn tires with Michelin LTX M/S2 tires which included balancing with the purchase. The problem went away, no steering wheel vibration. Only tested to 85 mph.

 

How about suspension bushings? My 00 540i does this at 70-75 mph and it is contributed to the thrust arm bushings being worn.

 

My 2000 rx300 @175k ...vibrated @60..Came and went.. only happened on right hand curves @ 60..replaced front cv's struts/bearings..etc etc.. rear struts.. still vibrated.RH curves/60mph. Turned out it was worn bushing rear trailing arms!! Grab rear tire and i could move it back n forth.. one side only.. Replaced and vibes now gone.. finally!! it only happened on right hand curves @ 60+ - replaced rear bearing as well.. @175k ...needed struts/cvs anyways..Big difference!.. Pleasure to drive. (if the steering wheel dont lock up..lol ) other post.

 

My 2017 LX570 has Same Problem and Yokohamas. Problem seems to be greatly reduced in "Sport Mode". .....

 

I am having similar intermittent vibration. But it only happens when I am on throttle. As I release the throttle it goes away immediately. Go back on and it starts back. It can get quite violent, but it will clear up all on its own. I am wondering if it is an issue with an inner CV, that is sticking and so not always performing its "constant velocity" function.

 

And following on from my post above, I have just been looking into buying replacement axles for my 2WD. I note that the OEM part numbers are different for left and right sides, but the non-genuine suppliers on EBay list the same part for both sides. Does anyone know what the left and right side differences are and if the same part can work on both sides?

 

The left and right are different. One of them is longer and has a support in the middle.

Salim

 

Sorry, I should have said, is the outer piece of the long left axle the same as the other side. The long piece connects to the inner CV joint , so I am wondering if the section from thr inner CV joint to the outer is the same for both sides.