RX300 passenger side window won's stay up
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RX300 passenger side window won's stay up
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We have a RX300 2001
The front passenger side window won't go back up from either the master controls on the driver side or the control on the passenger side.
I hear a "clicking sound" when I operate the master control from the driver side.
What does the "clicking sound" indicate ? Is it the regulator or is it the motor?
Cost estimates?
We disconnected the battery for a few minutes but that did not help.
The window went maybe 25% and went back down by itself. We cannot seem to keep it up.
Can anyone please help me.
We are not very handy people but can manage a few things.
Thanks in advance for your help,
Ayesha
*********************************
We have a RX300 2001
The front passenger side window won't go back up from either the master controls on the driver side or the control on the passenger side.
I hear a "clicking sound" when I operate the master control from the driver side.
What does the "clicking sound" indicate ? Is it the regulator or is it the motor?
Cost estimates?
We disconnected the battery for a few minutes but that did not help.
The window went maybe 25% and went back down by itself. We cannot seem to keep it up.
Can anyone please help me.
We are not very handy people but can manage a few things.
Thanks in advance for your help,
Ayesha
#2
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Are you trying the single flick action or holding the button up?
If by holding the button up the glass does not travel to top most position, then there is a a problem. If it does reach all the way up and stop, then cycle it couple of times.
If not then the best advice I can give you is to use the search. Lexmex posted a DIY on window motor.
Salim
If by holding the button up the glass does not travel to top most position, then there is a a problem. If it does reach all the way up and stop, then cycle it couple of times.
If not then the best advice I can give you is to use the search. Lexmex posted a DIY on window motor.
Salim
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These two are the ones you need to look at,
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...moval-diy.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...r-removal.html
That particular window motor has given me trouble and lubing the rails is only a temporary fix, eventually the motor can and will go.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...moval-diy.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...r-removal.html
That particular window motor has given me trouble and lubing the rails is only a temporary fix, eventually the motor can and will go.
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First step, I'd listen carefully to see if you hear any kind of click when you move the passenger's front window switch up or down (either from using the driver's side switch or that on the passenger side). It helps (though not required), to have the door panel off to listen to it better. Sometime it's just the glass run that needs relubricating, but as I found out recently my motor was definitely on it's last leg and I ended up replacing it albeit with an aftermarket one I got on Amazon (no auto/up down, but saved a ton in cash doing so).
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Can't hear anything. I was thinking of trying to clean the switch. Can I simply take off the cover of the drivers side switch controls ? or, do i need to take off the whole door panel to get to them ? If so, do you have a link to either ? Thanks alot !
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Got drivers side window switch out, but really nothing to clean once I took it apart. Can't hear anything when I try the switch , so I guess I'll go after a window motor replacement. :-(. Think a not very techy person ( like me ) could do? Thanks!
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https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...s-and-now.html
The passenger side motor for the Dorman (aftermarket) was here, http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-34522-740-327.aspx
Amazon is where I got mine for my driver's side.
But again, you have to tap out the holes on this to get it work
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Here is what I did for the same problem: Remove the driver's window switch. There is a plastic prong at the bottom that needs to be pushed in with a protected screwdriver (don't scratch the bezel) and lift the assembly out. The prong is under the bezel; if you break it like I did, don't worry since the assembly will still hold snuggly in place when you push it back in. Unplug the wiring harness and turn the assembly upside down.
Remove the screws holding the wood bezel on and then carefully remove the other screws holding the switch assembly together. Do not turn the unit over since the plastic contact pins will fall out. They are all the same ecept for the wear on them and the top two are black. The black ones operation the window lock and door locks, if I remember correctly. Anyway, it is obvious what does what when you open the switch up. Be careful not to drop or damage the printed circuit board. [I beleive the boards are what make the price so rediculous.]
.... Then "rob" the white plastic pins from one of the rear window switches (likely less wear on them than the passenger window switch) and use them on the passenger winodow switch whose pins in turn go back into the rear window switch slots. Reassemble and try it out. I ended up with a passenger window that had to go all the way down B4 it would go up, but at elat it didn't hang up and force me to do a multitude of gyrations and Chinese fire drills to get it up. Then.. after about a week or less, it started to work 100% correctly again.
Remove the screws holding the wood bezel on and then carefully remove the other screws holding the switch assembly together. Do not turn the unit over since the plastic contact pins will fall out. They are all the same ecept for the wear on them and the top two are black. The black ones operation the window lock and door locks, if I remember correctly. Anyway, it is obvious what does what when you open the switch up. Be careful not to drop or damage the printed circuit board. [I beleive the boards are what make the price so rediculous.]
.... Then "rob" the white plastic pins from one of the rear window switches (likely less wear on them than the passenger window switch) and use them on the passenger winodow switch whose pins in turn go back into the rear window switch slots. Reassemble and try it out. I ended up with a passenger window that had to go all the way down B4 it would go up, but at elat it didn't hang up and force me to do a multitude of gyrations and Chinese fire drills to get it up. Then.. after about a week or less, it started to work 100% correctly again.
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Guess I ran out of space. No guarantees if this will work for you, but it takes only 15 minutes and costs nothing. My RX300 has 139,000 miles on it and has been a great car with virtually no issues, just routine maintenance. I did have a oxygen sensor go out recently, but I certainly can't complain. Hope this helps.
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It's Baaaack!! Hi all - 3 months ago had the front passenger side window motor replaced. $800.00 :-( major $ but window has worked fine until now. Put it down and won't go up, or if it does it's VERY
Intermittent and I don't trust to put in down position. Same guy who replaced motor is telling me it's the switch.. However neither drivers side ( master ) or passenger side switch will raise window.. Am I being taken? And could this still be the motor ? Thanks!!!
Intermittent and I don't trust to put in down position. Same guy who replaced motor is telling me it's the switch.. However neither drivers side ( master ) or passenger side switch will raise window.. Am I being taken? And could this still be the motor ? Thanks!!!
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I have an easy fix to this problem as I also experienced passenger side window issue; it wouldn't go back up, but only did after many tries on the switch. I inspected the switch circuit but it was fine. Then I spayed some silicone lubricant at the edge of the window and let it flowed down to the window track. After the I let the window go down to let the lubricate work on the track, the won't-go-up problem was resolved totally.
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I have had the same problems, but now I have a new one. Here's the very long explanation, and then if SOMEONE has a diagnosis and cure, please let me know.
Because of all the great advice I read here on these pages, I was able to determine that I did need a new front passenger side window motor. I could only get my window to go back up from the down position after giving the inside passenger door a swift kick. Can't keep doing that, right? Since we do not have a Lexus dealer where I live, I had to settle for taking it to the local Toyota dealer, who replaced the motor for a hefty $700.
Sure enough it worked. But, as they were handing me back my car, the service manager said, "Oh, by the way, you need a new window switch." And he showed me. The window goes up great, but the second it hits the closed (fully up) position, it starts heading back down. Naturally, I fish-eyed the guy, who said it would be another $450 for the part plus labor. I had just spent $2800 on repairs with them, and I said thanks, but I'll look elsewhere for help.
So, here are the symptoms. The window (from either the driver's master switch or the passenger control) will go up, but it immediately comes back down when it hits the closed position. I can control the window by tapping it up or down and that's fine. But, no matter what I do, if it hits that closed position, it just comes back down. So, right now I'm having to drive around with that whistling sound from the little crack at the top of the passenger window.
Ok... I bought a used replacement switch for about $100. I followed the instructions offered by Lexmex on these pages elsewhere to remove the bezel. I unplugged the original box switch and put the replacement in. THE SAME EXACT THING HAPPENS. Window goes up fine and I can tap-control it, but the instant it hits the fully-up position, the window comes back down.
I know absolutely nothing about auto electronics or wiring or relays or boards, or anything like that. But, doesn't that sound like there's some sort of bad connection from the switch to the motor if the same exact thing happens with two different switches?
Can anyone help me, please? I just want to be able to take it to a reliable local guy and say this might be the problem and this is probably the solution. I've been back to that dealer twice now for other problems they didn't take care of during the $2800-repair job.
Thanks!
Because of all the great advice I read here on these pages, I was able to determine that I did need a new front passenger side window motor. I could only get my window to go back up from the down position after giving the inside passenger door a swift kick. Can't keep doing that, right? Since we do not have a Lexus dealer where I live, I had to settle for taking it to the local Toyota dealer, who replaced the motor for a hefty $700.
Sure enough it worked. But, as they were handing me back my car, the service manager said, "Oh, by the way, you need a new window switch." And he showed me. The window goes up great, but the second it hits the closed (fully up) position, it starts heading back down. Naturally, I fish-eyed the guy, who said it would be another $450 for the part plus labor. I had just spent $2800 on repairs with them, and I said thanks, but I'll look elsewhere for help.
So, here are the symptoms. The window (from either the driver's master switch or the passenger control) will go up, but it immediately comes back down when it hits the closed position. I can control the window by tapping it up or down and that's fine. But, no matter what I do, if it hits that closed position, it just comes back down. So, right now I'm having to drive around with that whistling sound from the little crack at the top of the passenger window.
Ok... I bought a used replacement switch for about $100. I followed the instructions offered by Lexmex on these pages elsewhere to remove the bezel. I unplugged the original box switch and put the replacement in. THE SAME EXACT THING HAPPENS. Window goes up fine and I can tap-control it, but the instant it hits the fully-up position, the window comes back down.
I know absolutely nothing about auto electronics or wiring or relays or boards, or anything like that. But, doesn't that sound like there's some sort of bad connection from the switch to the motor if the same exact thing happens with two different switches?
Can anyone help me, please? I just want to be able to take it to a reliable local guy and say this might be the problem and this is probably the solution. I've been back to that dealer twice now for other problems they didn't take care of during the $2800-repair job.
Thanks!
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Try training the window where open and closed are again.
1. Key to run/acc but not start.
2. Close the window all the way with one continuous pull on the up button. Hold it up for 6-8 seconds after it is closed.
3. Open the window by pushing down on the button until fully open then keep holding down for 3 seconds.
4. Push down on the button (yes down again just like in step 3) and hold it down for 5 seconds then let go.
5. Close the window by pulling up on the switch and hold it all the way up until it is closed and then for 2 more seconds after it is closed.
1. Key to run/acc but not start.
2. Close the window all the way with one continuous pull on the up button. Hold it up for 6-8 seconds after it is closed.
3. Open the window by pushing down on the button until fully open then keep holding down for 3 seconds.
4. Push down on the button (yes down again just like in step 3) and hold it down for 5 seconds then let go.
5. Close the window by pulling up on the switch and hold it all the way up until it is closed and then for 2 more seconds after it is closed.