DIY- (MAF) Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaning
#31
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The MAF doesn't need to be cleaned often as it's behind the air filter. I'll be worried if the car has cold air intake, the air filter was installed incorrectly or K&N filter was used. Last time I checked the MAF in a 7 y.o car and found it wasn't dirty at all and there was no apparent improvement after it was cleaned.
#32
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I need to know for sure whether or not it is safe to use the crc brand maf cleaner because i went to o reilly auto parts earlier today to get some maf cleaner and the only brand they had was the crc maf cleaner but again it says NOT to use use it on Lexus vehicles. So in the end is it actually safe for me to use it or should I get some other brand?
#33
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I need to know for sure whether or not it is safe to use the crc brand maf cleaner because i went to o reilly auto parts earlier today to get some maf cleaner and the only brand they had was the crc maf cleaner but again it says NOT to use use it on Lexus vehicles. So in the end is it actually safe for me to use it or should I get some other brand?
#34
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Thanks art. I went ahead and bought a can of that stuff and Im gonna dig into it tomorrow when i have a day "off" between doings so to speak.
#36
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So, just a foreword, I've done this "eliminate the carbon filter" mod to my 3 most recent cars and I gotta say, I love it. I do notice a little low end torque increase that of course comes with a little V8 rumble. My only concern is, on my current car (LS460L) I just removed these carbon filters and added K&N drop-in filters and a couple days later the car threw up a CEL, Check VSC, and traction light. Went to a local AAP, read the code which was a P010F which is along the lines of "mass air / value" something, I can't remember.
I reset the light just now by pulling the battery while I performed some cleaning of the throttle body and MAF sensors, but it was the second time these lights came back.
I know these cars are sensitive AF, I'm just wondering if anyone ever ran into these issues/codes...
I reset the light just now by pulling the battery while I performed some cleaning of the throttle body and MAF sensors, but it was the second time these lights came back.
I know these cars are sensitive AF, I'm just wondering if anyone ever ran into these issues/codes...
#37
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So, just a foreword, I've done this "eliminate the carbon filter" mod to my 3 most recent cars and I gotta say, I love it. I do notice a little low end torque increase that of course comes with a little V8 rumble. My only concern is, on my current car (LS460L) I just removed these carbon filters and added K&N drop-in filters and a couple days later the car threw up a CEL, Check VSC, and traction light. Went to a local AAP, read the code which was a P010F which is along the lines of "mass air / value" something, I can't remember.
I reset the light just now by pulling the battery while I performed some cleaning of the throttle body and MAF sensors, but it was the second time these lights came back.
I know these cars are sensitive AF, I'm just wondering if anyone ever ran into these issues/codes...
I reset the light just now by pulling the battery while I performed some cleaning of the throttle body and MAF sensors, but it was the second time these lights came back.
I know these cars are sensitive AF, I'm just wondering if anyone ever ran into these issues/codes...
Are you sure this belongs in RX-300 first gen? LS460L & V8
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Salim
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10acimport (03-07-17)
#38
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Hi All,
I just checked the MAF on my "new" RX300 in hopes it would help solve the mystery of the "P0172 Bank 1 too rich" code. I found the seller did indeed replace the MAF, with a Duralast dL-3000 unit. Does anyone have experience with this product and could it be the source of a P0172 code after just ~200 miles? It is definitely brand new.
Also, I noticed the diode is green (not red), and I could not find the "lines" refers to in step 6 of the OP (copy below). Can someone explain these lines a little better?
I just checked the MAF on my "new" RX300 in hopes it would help solve the mystery of the "P0172 Bank 1 too rich" code. I found the seller did indeed replace the MAF, with a Duralast dL-3000 unit. Does anyone have experience with this product and could it be the source of a P0172 code after just ~200 miles? It is definitely brand new.
Also, I noticed the diode is green (not red), and I could not find the "lines" refers to in step 6 of the OP (copy below). Can someone explain these lines a little better?
5. Clean the red diode from both sides. One side of it will look much darker and will have dirt and other dust particles and the other side should look red but may also be a little dirty. Now spay this red diode with the MAF spray, till both sides look red.
6. Now look at the MAF sensor from the top and you will see that there are two little "lines" inside you want to spray that with MAF spray as well and then let the MAF sensor dry for a few minutes.
6. Now look at the MAF sensor from the top and you will see that there are two little "lines" inside you want to spray that with MAF spray as well and then let the MAF sensor dry for a few minutes.
Last edited by siddfynch; 11-27-17 at 06:15 PM.
#39
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Hi All,
I just checked the MAF on my "new" RX300 in hopes it would help solve the mystery of the "P0172 Bank 1 too rich" code. I found the seller did indeed replace the MAF, with a Duralast dL-3000 unit. Does anyone have experience with this product and could it be the source of a P0172 code after just ~200 miles? It is definitely brand new.
Also, I noticed the diode is green (not red), and I could not find the "lines" refers to in step 6 of the OP (copy below). Can someone explain these lines a little better?
I just checked the MAF on my "new" RX300 in hopes it would help solve the mystery of the "P0172 Bank 1 too rich" code. I found the seller did indeed replace the MAF, with a Duralast dL-3000 unit. Does anyone have experience with this product and could it be the source of a P0172 code after just ~200 miles? It is definitely brand new.
Also, I noticed the diode is green (not red), and I could not find the "lines" refers to in step 6 of the OP (copy below). Can someone explain these lines a little better?
Most folks on this board recommend replacing RX sensors with either OE or Denso aftermarket. Many people have had issues with other brand sensors.
About 1600 miles ago I replaced my MAF with a Denso for a P0171 code (and high fuel trims on both banks at above idle RPM) and all has been good since then.
#40
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With regard to P0172, you need to check your fuel trims to determine if the MAF is a likely cause of your code. If the trim is strongly negative on bank 1 and normal (close to zero) on bank 2, it is not the MAF. The MAF will affect the trims on both banks similarly. If it is only bank1 you have an issue with based on the trims, the A/F sensor is the likely culprit, with the fuel injectors next.
#41
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As a general rule, only install OEM sensors. Not worth the aggravation.
Salim
Salim
#42
Driver School Candidate
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Thanks guys. I re-installed the MAF (did not bother cleaning -it looked pristine) and removed the 20a EFI fuse for 2 mins. Will turn my attention to fuel trims next and then potentially the B1S1. Lots of good info on this site.
Drove the car ~ 20 miles after playing with the MAF. The CEL was gone. Presumably due to fuse removal?
Drove the car ~ 20 miles after playing with the MAF. The CEL was gone. Presumably due to fuse removal?
#43
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Hello
In step 6 why clean the tow lines, isn't the main sensor the part that needs the cleaning?
And what are those lines? Resistors? Diodes?
In step 6 why clean the tow lines, isn't the main sensor the part that needs the cleaning?
And what are those lines? Resistors? Diodes?
#44
Driver School Candidate
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My 2004 ls 430 was idling bad at cold start, at 1200-1400 rpm, cleaned with electric contact spray, worked like a charm.
steps I use
1.disconect the negative terminal
2.unplug maf
3.remove maf
4.sprayed a lot on to the sensor, about 3 repeates times, each time after 5 min of drying
5.insert maf back
I left the battery unplugged for about 1 hour
6.plug maf
7.conect negative terminal of battery
now idling at 700 rpm
hope this helps
steps I use
1.disconect the negative terminal
2.unplug maf
3.remove maf
4.sprayed a lot on to the sensor, about 3 repeates times, each time after 5 min of drying
5.insert maf back
I left the battery unplugged for about 1 hour
6.plug maf
7.conect negative terminal of battery
now idling at 700 rpm
hope this helps
Last edited by ursnicu; 12-27-18 at 01:35 PM.
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ill57 (01-05-22)
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blake96
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10-14-14 01:29 PM