Door lock actuator motor replaceable???
#1
Door lock actuator motor replaceable???
Hello all, well it looks like my front driver's side door actuator is bad, since the key remote doesn't lock or unlock it anymore but works on all the other doors.
I've been reading about the cheap replacement actuator motor but was wondering more about whether or not the factory installed door lock actuator could be opened then just replace the little motor inside instead.
Is it possible to open these door lock actuators and just replace the motors instead of buying a whole new actuator? I don't want to go through the hassle of tearing mine apart if it isn't even possible.
I've been reading about the cheap replacement actuator motor but was wondering more about whether or not the factory installed door lock actuator could be opened then just replace the little motor inside instead.
Is it possible to open these door lock actuators and just replace the motors instead of buying a whole new actuator? I don't want to go through the hassle of tearing mine apart if it isn't even possible.
#2
Hello all, well it looks like my front driver's side door actuator is bad, since the key remote doesn't lock or unlock it anymore but works on all the other doors.
I've been reading about the cheap replacement actuator motor but was wondering more about whether or not the factory installed door lock actuator could be opened then just replace the little motor inside instead.
Is it possible to open these door lock actuators and just replace the motors instead of buying a whole new actuator? I don't want to go through the hassle of tearing mine apart if it isn't even possible.
I've been reading about the cheap replacement actuator motor but was wondering more about whether or not the factory installed door lock actuator could be opened then just replace the little motor inside instead.
Is it possible to open these door lock actuators and just replace the motors instead of buying a whole new actuator? I don't want to go through the hassle of tearing mine apart if it isn't even possible.
Also, the original actuator has to be left in place even if a "piggy back" is used because there is more that it does (and needs to continue to do) than just lock and unlock the door.
#3
Damn. Thanks code58. I was afraid that the actuator wouldn't easily open. So the piggyback option would be the best bet, working as good if not better than the original actuator? I read all the stories of the OEM actuator costing upwards of $400-500, so this sounds like the only viable option.
#5
Damn. Thanks code58. I was afraid that the actuator wouldn't easily open. So the piggyback option would be the best bet, working as good if not better than the original actuator? I read all the stories of the OEM actuator costing upwards of $400-500, so this sounds like the only viable option.
I have installed several "piggy back" set-ups and it depends on how thick your wallet is and how handy you are at doing "non-standard" work like that. I don't think they're bad but someone who wasn't handy or used to doing that kind of work would probably disagree. I installed all 4 on my DIL's RX with donated Ford actuators and that was before anyone figured out how to do this. I couldn't afford the $1300.+ that the dealer wanted for new locks and my son and DIL couldn't either. So it took some time and engineering, but cost me ZERO $. Those actuators are still working perfectly today and it has been 4&1/2 years.
#6
#7
The discount mail order Lexus sites were for the most part about $15.-$20. higher than Ebay. I didn't check every single one but that was about the average.
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#8
Check with one of ClubLexus many sponsors! I HIGHLY recommend Sewell lexus. Their prices are great (hint: the lexus OEM actuator is cheaper from them than anywhere online, including fleabay). Plus their customer service is top-notch.
Otherwise, get the generic motors. Do a search and you can find the part number, but iirc it's manufactured by... crap i just forgot as i was typing. It's like Matsubishi or something weird... I can check when I get home. I have 4 left-overs, lol. They're $5 for 5 motors. $5 for shipping. I only replaced one, but it's been solid for 2 years since. Cutting apart the actuator shell and putting it back together isn't that big a deal. I used an exacto knife and super-glue, took 10 minutes.
Otherwise, get the generic motors. Do a search and you can find the part number, but iirc it's manufactured by... crap i just forgot as i was typing. It's like Matsubishi or something weird... I can check when I get home. I have 4 left-overs, lol. They're $5 for 5 motors. $5 for shipping. I only replaced one, but it's been solid for 2 years since. Cutting apart the actuator shell and putting it back together isn't that big a deal. I used an exacto knife and super-glue, took 10 minutes.
#10
MVL- Did you try doing a search? There's an absolute ton of write-up on the "piggy-back" method, also with a lot of pictures. I have personally done 8 of them. I'm not going to waste my time typing when you won't invest yours searching.
#11
[QUOTE=JiBBeL;5951544]HIGHLY recommend Sewell lexus. Their prices are great (hint: the lexus OEM actuator is cheaper from them than anywhere online, including fleabay).[QUOTE]
I have more than just serious doubts about that.
I have more than just serious doubts about that.
#12
I have seen tons of pictures and not one shows exacly where to connect the rod from the piggy back to the latch/lock assembly. Yeah.... Don't waste your time typing. Im going to figure out myself and then i'm going to "waste my time" posting the pictures with detailed instructions in how to do it for those who have same problem and can't figure it out.
thanks....
Last edited by MVLEX; 11-24-10 at 09:56 AM.
#13
I have seen tons of pictures and not one shows exacly where to connect the rod from the piggy back to the latch/lock assembly. Yeah.... Don't waste your time typing. Im going to figure out myself and then i'm going to "waste my time" posting the pictures with detailed instructions in how to do it for those who have same problem and can't figure it out.
thanks....
thanks....
Try this http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...piggyback&st=0
Matter of fact read the whole thing, you may just learn something and may find some pictures to look at too. Check out page page 7, post 96
Here are a few more for you.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...actuators.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...-actuator.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...k-problem.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...-solution.html
There are a ton more where these came from, all from the search engine. No shortage of pictures either.
Last edited by code58; 11-24-10 at 10:34 PM.
#14
Check with one of ClubLexus many sponsors! I HIGHLY recommend Sewell lexus. Their prices are great (hint: the lexus OEM actuator is cheaper from them than anywhere online, including fleabay). Plus their customer service is top-notch.
Otherwise, get the generic motors. Do a search and you can find the part number, but iirc it's manufactured by... crap i just forgot as i was typing. It's like Matsubishi or something weird... I can check when I get home. I have 4 left-overs, lol. They're $5 for 5 motors. $5 for shipping. I only replaced one, but it's been solid for 2 years since. Cutting apart the actuator shell and putting it back together isn't that big a deal. I used an exacto knife and super-glue, took 10 minutes.
Otherwise, get the generic motors. Do a search and you can find the part number, but iirc it's manufactured by... crap i just forgot as i was typing. It's like Matsubishi or something weird... I can check when I get home. I have 4 left-overs, lol. They're $5 for 5 motors. $5 for shipping. I only replaced one, but it's been solid for 2 years since. Cutting apart the actuator shell and putting it back together isn't that big a deal. I used an exacto knife and super-glue, took 10 minutes.
I plan on doing this motor replacement instead of the piggyback option, b/c I'm not sure of the longevity of the piggyback option whereas the motor replacement seems it should last as long as the original (8 years) if not longer.
Code58, what were the years of the RX's you did the piggyback option on? Would all the actuator casings be the same for the 1st generation Rx300 99-03? Maybe some actuator casing years are easier to open than others?
#15
RX- I did 4 on my DIL's '99 RX, 3 on an '01 RX and 1 on an '02 RX. I'm trying to remember what else I've done them on. Those were all piggyback.
All those actuators seemed to be the same. I doubt that any would be easier than any other. The are electro fused on a seam that is in the middle (clam shell wise). They are securely electro fused (Not EVER meant to be opened) but with a sharp knife (kind with the retractable blade) they can be opened FAIRLY neatly. May have a little deviation in the seam, but supper glue back together nicely. The reason I did them the way I did was there was no knowledge the motors were in any way available in May of '06 when I did the 1st ones on my DIL's car. As more of them started to fail, more people were looking for a way not to break the bank in keeping them operational. Then for a time the sources dried up and the only thing I was able to find (I had long since done my DIL's, just wanted to help others) were the correct motors from a surplus inventory seller that would only sell 1000 at a time (for $1. ea.).
May I ask where you have located them? The company (Mabuchi) makes tons of little tiny motors like that but are normally only sold to manufacturers who use them in various rechargeable devices and door locks and such. Nothing at all wrong with replacing the motor, it was just availability issues. It probably is a little more (quite a bit more) work to replace the motor in the actuator. To get it out and in is a little work. One reason I kind of preferred the "piggy back" method is if it eventually goes out, it's MUCH easier to replace.
Yes, you definitely have to remove the actuator, it can't be done in the door.
All those actuators seemed to be the same. I doubt that any would be easier than any other. The are electro fused on a seam that is in the middle (clam shell wise). They are securely electro fused (Not EVER meant to be opened) but with a sharp knife (kind with the retractable blade) they can be opened FAIRLY neatly. May have a little deviation in the seam, but supper glue back together nicely. The reason I did them the way I did was there was no knowledge the motors were in any way available in May of '06 when I did the 1st ones on my DIL's car. As more of them started to fail, more people were looking for a way not to break the bank in keeping them operational. Then for a time the sources dried up and the only thing I was able to find (I had long since done my DIL's, just wanted to help others) were the correct motors from a surplus inventory seller that would only sell 1000 at a time (for $1. ea.).
May I ask where you have located them? The company (Mabuchi) makes tons of little tiny motors like that but are normally only sold to manufacturers who use them in various rechargeable devices and door locks and such. Nothing at all wrong with replacing the motor, it was just availability issues. It probably is a little more (quite a bit more) work to replace the motor in the actuator. To get it out and in is a little work. One reason I kind of preferred the "piggy back" method is if it eventually goes out, it's MUCH easier to replace.
Yes, you definitely have to remove the actuator, it can't be done in the door.