Trashman

The car is a few states away, and I don't mind traveling to pick it up, however I've been looking around at different reviews/forums etc. and wondered if there are "standard items to look for". It's a 2001, 4x4 with nearly 130,000mi on it. Owner claims to have ALL maintenance history (which is a huge plus). I'm not scared about DIYing much of work that may need to be done in the future.

I've heard of transmission issues, but people with great experience typically don't complain about their vehicles.

Is there a scan tool/diagnostic software that's recommended and where would I purchase it?

I'm an avid Audi enthusiast and have done relatively in depth DIY work on it and this will be my first Lexus purchase.

TIA

Ed

sktn77a

iTrader: (2)

There are several threads on this forum addressing things to look for in the RX300. The two biggest ones on the 1999-2001 are engine sludge and transmission failure. Supposedly, the planetary gear in the 2003 and 2003 was bigger and stronger. It's hard to predict if either will go out. Regular maintenance (oil changes every 5000 - 7500miles and transmission fluid change every 30,000 miles) is the key to minimizing these problems.

hypervish

Welcome to Club Lexus!!
There's been many people with NO issues with the Transmission, and they were beefed up mid-year 2000 so you'll be fine. My uncle is past 350k on his original trans (99' AWD), I only have 155k on my original trans and it's running like a champ! Don't be fearful of the transmission crapping out, the issue is blown way out of proportion. lol

The tranny is really basically the only item to look out for it has been maintained properly.

In the earlier years such as 99' and 00' they were prone to sludge if not maintained properly, but that shouldn't be an issue on 01' especially if oil changes were done on time...To prevent sludge just do regular oil changes and try to use synthetic, but it's not needed. I only say use synthetic, as it stands up better to heat, and these engines run hotter than others. The 1MZ-FE engine is also known to beat up oil fairly quickly, so it doesn't hurt to get a UOA to see the condition of the oil.

I think you'll find this forum extremely helpful especially with your DIY abilities, we have a bunch of DIY's.

Trashman

maintenance to the vehicle. Timing belt done at 86k, not sure if the waterpump was done though. The owner says he's done everything the dealer suggested, including diff servicing.

I do plan on using strictly synthetic oil.

I'm surprised to hear about sludge issues, as this isn't a turbo motor, I do plan on treating the it with Auto-Rx as a preventative measure.

I'm not sure if this model/year is a AWD transmission or is it FWD/4WD?

I've been reading conflicting information.

jimxo

We have a 2001 RX300 FWD. Our trans exploded one day and cost us 2500 to have it rebuilt. We now have 144k miles and it still runs perfect. We do keep it well maintained. The rear struts seem to be in need of replacement.

Good luck.

Australian

The biggest problem with a RX300 is it is a prestige car and the main problem with anything prestige is the owners do not maintain their vehicles and generally wouldn't visit this forum until their car has broken down. The registered users here are enthusiasts and have better lexus's than the general population.

Common problem is the suspension as the rubber bushes have perished after 10 years and poly is the best alternative. The shocks are generally also gone before 100,000 km
This is also at times the end of the car as many have continued to drive until an accident.
The transmission has been mentioned but this is a lack of maintenance issue rather
than a fault with the car. As far as faults really go the door locks are prone to requiring new actuators. If you drive any car and no nothing about cars you probably won't notice anything wrong with the car your driving but give it to a mechanic and he will give you a list of things that need doing you feel like your getting scammed but chances are if you took it anywhere they would all have a list as long as your arm on a 10 year old car.

The idea is to learn and i can tell your an enthusiast because your here i would really say the things you should look out for apply to any car.
Look for water leaks or where previous clean ups were not so good.
check for oil leaks and again for previous clean ups.
Regardless of car allow $2k to sort out the steering and suspension
Check for body damage and under carriage.

Don't fool yourself any 10 years old car including one with only 100 miles in a garage
requires al the rubber replaced it has gone brittle and falls to bits including the tires.

Carver

With older Lexus the key is maintenance history. If your car has been properly maintained there is every chance it will easily double whatever is on the odometer. Our cars were built during the golden age of Lexus, in their first 13 years they spared nothing in quality and materials. Their reputation of quality was built on the cars of this period.

If you can find a well maintained RX300 you will have a great car.

Seriously, has anyone ever seen a rusted out (non-wrecked) 300?

Leines

I gotta agree on the service history above and beyond for anything... you wanna see some dealerstamps in that manual, and some indication it was serviced properly..... when i found my rx... it was owned by toyota dealership mechanic... had put 60kms in 5 years... and before he owned it.. every oil change except 5 were accounted for with lexus dealers stamps in the manual.... now this doesnt mean that its any better then the next car... it just gives you a clue that at least the people that owned it before, actually cared enough to have it serviced properly..... In canada we have a Carproof, i think they have similar things in usa.. that will tell you accident history etc.... i wouldnt buy a car without one of those... and it be clean.....

If all that stuff checks out... then id go take a look at the car..

Dadikins

Mine isn't wrecked, but I have several small spots of rust... but then again, it is a non-garaged New England car.

I've been scraping the rust spots out with a very small screwdriver & then touching up.

I've stated this many times, and will state it again -- I would take an RX/300 over a 330 or 350 any day.

LA4Mead

As previously mentioned, I'd check the trans fluid and look at the service records. Rarely, if ever, does the L dealer perform transmission service, even if requested. This leads to early failure for owners who don't track this specifically. Most enthusiasts know to service the transmission whether the dealer will or not. Many L dealers use a transmission fluid "flush" which seems to lead to problems. The pan is not dropped, filter changed (some models come with a changeable element) or screen cleaned and checked for wear. The original transmissions tended to burn the fluid. Check it for smell as well as light pink color.

Engine sludge is not commonly found on well-maintained examples, so it's not a big issue either. Check for blue smoke...

Some power lock actuators get lazy by this time. It's not a major issue.

The struts and strut mount insulators wear out... like any car this age.

Good luck!

karasdad

check to see if the rear hatch lifts easily and stays up, otherwise you might need to replace the struts, very expensive to replace with OEM struts.

Also see if the green "D" transmission light on the dash is on when the car is in drive, it is usually burned out. you can find a replacement guide on this forum but save yourself the trouble and see if it's already replaced.

thomas1

replacement struts for the rear hatch are cheap on Ebay....less than $60 for a pair....

Dadikins

I would suggest hooking up an OBDC code reader to any used car that you may purchase. Make sure that the systems are showing as "Ready" & there are no pending codes.

Also, turn the key position to ACC & make sure the Check Engine light does light up. There have been reports of burnt out (or even missing!) bulbs.