BlueCrabby

I think it must be from the age. I was considering using duct tape, but that would be bad if I need to take off the plastic next time.

I saw this 3m strip calk on Amazon.(sold and shipped directly from Amazon.co, not 3rd party seller) Many reviews said that it worked great for applying the plastic vapor barrier film. I may give that a a try.

It's this one:
I did two right doors today. The locks and alarms have been working normally so far. Will give it another couple of days just to be sure and then I'll put the door panels back on. My stupid cat is now sleeping on the door panels in the living room.

Thanks!

Hyperloop

Update on the issue - turns out the connector to the power lock and window control panel was not plugged in solidly. I tightened up the connection and everything works fine now!

A few tips I learned while putting everything back together:

- Always test the latch before closing the door! You can manually flip the latch to the locked position on the door while it is open using a screwdriver. While making sure the lock switch is unlocked, pull on the door handles inside and outside, and the latch should release. If it doesn't, then something probably wasn't hooked up properly.
- Sometimes how you screw the latch assembly back into the door can bind up latch as well, using the 3 Torx screws on the side of the door. I had to reposition the latch assembly slightly and test to ensure the latch would release as it should (another reason to test the latch before closing the door).

Thanks again to the OP and everyone else for the great writeup and tips in here!

luluatx

I have a 2001 RX300 and 3 of the 4 doors were having issues with the door actuators. I consulted this thread and we tried the process of fixing the motors in the existing actuators, even had to buy a dremel to get the casing on the actuator open, but we weren't able to complete the motor fix without running into too many issues, and that was for just 1 of the 4 actuators. I ordered these on amazon as a back up option and was able to replace the actuators on the 2 rear doors on my own and then hired a mobile mechanic from https://wrench.com/ to complete the install of the 2 front doors (they were a bit to out of my scope of abilities). Was $50 for the replacement actuators and about $200 total for the mechanic and totally worth it. Going through Lexus or even my regular mechanic was going to cost at minimum $1500 so this was a way better option. The key fobs for my car work great and all of the locks are functioning.

chenxingha

Just noticed that the power door lock on my wife's 2000 RX300 driver door is not working.

Pressing the LOCK button on the remote key fob generates a familiar door-locking sound and all doors except the driver door are locked; this is followed in about 2 seconds by a second similar sound that I don't know what it does. I don't recall there was a second sound when it was working properly. Also, missing is the light-flash and a beep sound (as I recall) after doors were locked, which I call in the past whenever the remote key fob was used to lock the doors.

Pressing the DOOR LOCK button on the driver door panel lock all doors except the driver door. Also, don't hear the mechanical sound from the driver door.

Does these all pointing to a driver door lock latch actuator problem, or something else?

Please advise.

chenxingha

Forgot to mention that using the mechanical key on driver door locks and opens all doors, while applying it on the front passenger door operates all doors except the driver door.

2002RX300

I remember hearing that second delayed locking sound when the motors failed separately on both my front door lock actuators. Though, I don't recall the lights acting differently nor the beep sound when locked. Driver's side door will always be the first lock actuator motor to fail b/c it's used the most.

chenxingha

2002RX300: Thanks for the reply. I remember the light-flashing and beet sound because my wife would park the car on the driveway and sometimes forgets whether or not the doors are locked. So often times I stand inside the garage side door and use the remote fob via the door window and press the LOCK button; hearing a beep and the yellow tail lights flash once and I know then the doors are locked.

Searched on Amazon and found this 4-piece set of door lock latch actuators for $35:

Next is to go over the DIY again to see if I am equipped to take down the door panel and the stuff - I recall there were a few posts on this thread describing the fronts were a bit complicated for typical DIY persons. With CovID-19 going around, more reasons to stay home and do this DIY.

Thank you very much for providing the insights.

Phil01

I found that the cheap door lock actuators usually are missing parts and don't work. Some where in the thread there is a test procedure so you can check them before you go through the work to replace them. I bought a total of 4 or 5 cheap actuators from Amazon and got one good one. I finally spent the money for working ones from various sources like Rock Auto and such.

JAB

I was going through some old Lexus stuff and found something of interest. About 10 years ago I had an actuator fail and through a search process the particulars of which I no longer recall I located a seller of the motors. What he sold me fit perfectly, was of the correct polarity, and I have had no door lock actuator problems with that car (my 99 RX) since. Now I have to overhaul one of the units in my 02. Fortunately I had bought a 4-pack. For what it is worth here is the contact info of the person from whom I bought them - no idea whether this is still good: Andrew Zinkan, 36 Stratford Village, Lancaster, PA, 17602.

MtnFrost

So there's this bar keeping the driver's side front actuator from being removed. I don't see it mentioned in the steps? Can someone clarify - the bar traps the actuator against the door skin with only enough room to slide it up and down, but not out.

vr4/sc400

That is the window rail guide. You need to remove the 10mm bolt so this rail can be moved out of the way.
Take a look at the provided video, at the 3:02 time mark you will see them remove this bolt.

MtnFrost

Thank you! This was the only thing tripping me up. I see it IS mentioned in step 10, I missed it without a picture to see. I had seen that video and never understood that is what he was doing there.

slothman

guys I have been defeated I need HELP =(

Installed 2 new motors, driver side front and pass side rear. At first, the driver would lock, however no unlocking, using the panel. I tried programming the key buttons. They key is not working, and the 2 new locks are not working. And the alarm keeps going off. What do I need to do ?

salimshah

Think logically.

Check if the thumb lock/unlock lever works at each door.
Next, the locks should operate by the button [driver and front passenger]
Check the key in drivers door is able to lock all the doors.

--- normally at this point everything should work. If not check the work again. If the key fails to operate, then check the rods and connections.

Re-Programming should not be needed. if you have messed with programming, then first get the above two working [third is a bonus]. Once you get to this stage, attempt to re-program the remote and not the imobilizer.

Salim

slothman

the button key is new. I tried programing the remote (5 lock/unlock series), did not work. The thumb locks rotate lock and unlock. The driver panel buttons ONLY lock 2, but not the 2 new motors I replaced. Is it possible the security system is blocking the other 2 doors? I just got this car, hence the new keys, and the new motors.