salimshah

Think again ... why would the programming be needed? You may have messed that up unintentionally. If you messed with imobilizer (key registration) and the vehicle still starts, count your blessings.

If you read my post and follow it ,, it suggests making sure every thing is mechanically sound, electrically works and the last step is the RF remote/receiver software/hardware.

You can disconnect the 12v battery to test out step 1.

Once you are at step 2, you can use sharp ears to hear if the actuators are trying to work.

Salim

PS: Button key --> Please explain what is that. If mean Key Fob (remote) then programming will be needed but still ensure step 1-3 still work. Past that point, you will need programming. DIY has steps for that. If the remote and the vehicle communicate they do nott make distinction between front/back locks. There is CBEST setting for driver door lock and all locks based on number of successive clicks.

slothman

the fob has not been programed to the locks let. The fob has been programmed to the computer, works, and starts the car. The fob does not work with the locks. And 2 of the locks do not work.

salimshah

Not too bad of a situation.
Imobolizer -> programmed and working. [Good]

Ignore the remote [key fob operation] for now.

Disconnect 12v battery for now and
1. Use the key and inside **** [the swing push lever next to the door open lever] and see if individual locks operate.

Connect 12V battery and
2. Use the front door lock/unlock electronic push button too see which (hopefully all) locks operate or not. Use this DIY to replace the non working actuators. There may be an issue with the motor/actuator you purchased.

Once you get past this point
3. Use the driver side Key [not the RF remote/fob] to lock and unlock/unlock ALL doors.

If and when you get to this point, everything electromechanical is working.

[I would leave the door panels unattached for a few days after you reach this point ... for the door locks that you worked on]

I am trying to emphasize that the BASE operation must be fixed/operational. [This thread is to get the base operation working]. Once you get here then the rest is programming the remote operation. Only then you should branch off to programming the remote and there are instructions for that. [Do not confuse the immobilizer programming with Remote programming].

Salim

PS: Feel free to PM hyperwish if you have issues with the programming.

slothman

ok good news, I finally got all locks working. I had to install 2 new actuators. The motors I had were failures.

bad news: Now I am having trouble with the FOB programming. I am doing the 5 lock method and when I get to the last step the lock is not going into program mode. I am following this, but it is not working:

1. Start with key out of ignition, drivers door is open all others closed and drivers door is unlocked. 2. Insert key into the ignition (Do NOT Turn) and Pull key out. 3. Perform these steps within 40 seconds. A. Using the power lock switch on the drivers door, perform 5 lock/unlock cycles starting with lock. Use an even pace and try to go about one cycle per second. (1 Cycle = 1 lock and 1 unlock). B. Close, then open drivers door. 4. Perform these steps within 40 seconds. A. Using the power lock switch on the drivers door, perform 5 lock/unlock cycles starting with lock. Use an even pace and try to go about one cycle per second. (1 Cycle = 1 lock and 1 unlock). B. Insert the key in the ignition cylinder. C. Turn the ignition to ON (Do NOT Start) then back to OFF. D. Remove the key from the ignition. 5. Within 3 seconds the power door locks should cycle automatically indicating successful entry into programming mode.

Any advice is much appreciated. Thank you all once again =)

salimshah

Great .. see the posts in
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...ogramming.html

Please report success/failure in that thread.

Note: I am acting as a clearing house and never had the need to program set of keys for myself.

Salim

owenstrawn

Happy to report that the /Amazon left rear door lock actuator works perfectly, with none of the electronic nonsense that I had with the ISSYZONE/Amazon right front actuator back in 2018. Hope it lasts better too!

echassin

I just got an email notification that this thread is alive and well, which is not a ringing endorsement of Toyota's reputation for quality...

I inquired already some years back, and hopefully someone has the solution by now: after replacing the front passenger door lock actuator, the other actuators lock and/or unlock seemingly randomly whenever the car is running and someone uses that one door (such as when picking someone up). It's bad enough that we need to check every actuator on the car manually every time we leave the car.

Ideas?

owenstrawn

echassin, that sounds like exactly the same behavior I had when I replaced my front passenger door lock actuator with an aftermarket (Issyzone) one from Amazon in 2019. After a year I took it out and rebuilt and reinstalled the old OEM actuator - and everything went back to normal. On the other hand my new (2023) rear aftermarket driver side door lock is working flawlessly, and I didn't even have to reset or reprogram anything.

salimshah

I was under the impression that "if at least one actuator fails to lock, the vehicle will not confirm lock [single beep]" [sorry for the legal sounding statement] . It will be a surprise that RX gives you audible confirmation but remains un-secured. Which lock remains un-secured or all get unlocked can be annoying, but at least the audible does not give you false security.

Salim

echassin

Thanks for the responses owenstrawn and salimshah!

These are the symptoms as precisely as I've discerned them: If the car is key-out and I use the fob to unlock or lock, everything seems to work as it should, sort of. The problems occur only key-in, ignition-on or car-running, and someone then opens the passenger door and closes it: all of the actuators lock and then unlock, including the trunk. What happens after that, such as walking away from the car and using the fob to lock everything up, is harder to pin-point because the other actuators now seem to have worn out too.

So the quick-and-dirty seems to be that the new aftermarket actuator is messing with the control module. I think that leaves acceptance or try replacements.

salimshah

Sorry to belabor the point ..

If at least one lock is not giving "locked confirmation" all locks will unlock --> this is expected behavior.

The door lock actuator assembly has two electronic pieces ... the lock mechanism and contact based confirmation of status [locked/unlocked/fully-closed (door ajar)]. If you are getting visual clues for locking/unlocking [this is accomplished by the motor (new/old)] the problem might be with the position switch. There are two sets of wires, one for the motor and one for the sensor.

If my analysis is correct, then the whole actuator assembly will need to be replaced. Recently after market assemblies are available. I have no idea how good/bad they are.

Million $ question still remains as to which assembly if failing?

Salim

echassin

We've chosen acceptance as the solution, so we manually check all the locks every time we leave the car. Annoying to be sure, so I wouldn't mind removing the control module altogether. OTOH, I'll wager that it ties into an ignition immobilizer and the car wouldn't start, plus I don't know where it is lol.

salimshah

With an advanced OBDII reader [techstream for sure most likely] the electrical information from each sensor can be read and the problem can be narrowed down.

The safety/security mechanisms may overlap, but my best judgement call is that the immobilizer simply uses key signature and stored signature to switch off ignition [spark ... same mechanism when you switch the key to off]. Too many interlocks and the system becomes a bear to debug/fix. imho

Salim

echassin

I'm more inclined to give up on this car's central locking, IMO the whole locking system is crap to begin with (to wit, this thread...). Kind of like the power antenna: I've replaced it a few times ($$$) and they all seem to get stuck. I removed the motor and added a little tab to pull it up manually, which is rarely needed around here.

I suppose it wouldn't hurt to unplug the central locking control module just as a test. If that doesn't trigger any immobilizer, we would just unlock/lock the driver door using the key for the 99% of the time the car just has a driver. Not ideal, but at least we wouldn't have to go around the car every time we leave it and manually lock everything.

Any of you gurus know exactly where the module is? I'd guess under the rear seat or under the dash?