2003 RX ready for an oil change, so I took it to my local quick lube place yesterday. Normally I would do it myself, but it is such a hassle getting the filter on/off and I had a coupon so I figured I would save myself a little time. Big mistake. Apparently their "expert" technicians stripped my drain plug, and then instead of telling me about it they just tried to thread a bigger plug in place. After being back home for a couple of hours I noticed an oil spot (car has never leaked anything), so I crawled underneath and noticed it was dripping around the drain plug. Drove back up there and asked them what was going on. At this point they admitted what they did, but their only solution was to put a pan saver plug on it. It is probably OK for now, but I have to admit I am having horror scenarios running through my head about metal shavings from that over sized plug sitting in my pan. I didn't feel like getting into a big argument with them there that never would have gone anywhere, so I will be getting in touch with their corporate office tomorrow.
Anyway, I want to keep this car for awhile so I figured I would look at my options. I know I could drop the pan and tap out the hole properly, but I also realized I can just get a new aftermarket pan and cork gasket at Rock Auto for about $70.00. That seems like a better long term solution. So a couple of questions if anyone can help:
Has anyone used an aftermarket pan? Seems like a pretty basic part.
They have a cork gasket or a rubber/cork combo, any preference? I know I could use the standard silicon gasket stuff as well, but this seems easier.
Any tricks I should be aware of? It seems like you just loosen the bolts part way, pry the old gasket off the engine side of the pan, drop down an replace?

Thanks in advance. Looks like I will be doing all my own oil changes from now on.

 

I would get the local quick lube place to pay for the repair using OEM parts. They made the mistake, admitted to doing it, and now they have to pay for it.

BTW: Welcome to Club Lexus!

 

Thanks for the reply and welcome message...

Yeah, I am going to fight them on it. However I also have to gauge the time/frustration factor. What's right is right, but I figure if I go this way utlimately I can do the entire thing for less than $100 plus an hour or two of my time. Then I have the satisfaction of knowing it was done correctly. I have a feeling any solution they give me will involve them working on it again, which will probably cost more time and energy then its worth. Not to mention they could just screw it up worse.

 

It is a simple job and those cork type gaskets work well. Make sure you torque the bolts to the recommended # (69 inch-pounds I think) and torque it like you would a cylinder head. There is no pressure in the pan and shouldn't leak.

 

OEM parts at www.mylexparts.com

1. Oil pan, rx300, lower - 3.0l - 3.0L $148.42

2. Engine Engine parts Oil pan Sealer Sealer $11.06 (Part # 00295-00103 - search from home page)

(note about their free shipping, that the free shipping sometimes takes 5-7 business days - California to New Jersey. If parts for order, it would take like 10 days...).

 

Thanks for all the help guys. I thought it looked pretty straight forward as well.

Believe it or not I emailed the District Operations manager yesterday and got a call first thing this morning from the area supervisor. They are going to step up and replace the pan for me completely on them. He said their system is showing an average of 2.5 hours labor, which I think is high...but if they are using the silicone gasket maybe that includes time for it to set. Looking it at myself with a cork gasket I don't think it would take more than an hour.

Anyway...I am kind of in shock that 1.) I actually got a call back and 2.) they are taking responsibility and making it right. Mobil Quick Lube in Orlando...I will do another follow-up when the work is done to let you know how it went.

 

Cork/fiber gasket vs sealant [fipg] time difference is minimal.

It does take more time in cleaning the old fipg vs fiber gasket ... unless some one used a sealant. I hate scraping ..specially when you dont have the vehicle up on a lift.

Salim

 

Silicone is a much better choice than cork (exception is the cork that is impregnated with urethane). I believe the original T/L silicone is a better choice than "parts store standard". In a lifetime of working on cars, cork is seldom a true permanent oil seal. It almost always compresses over time needing further tightening to establish seal, to the point that it is compressed so much it can no longer fully seal. I rejoiced when there were choices OTHER than cork gaskets. This is speaking of PURELY cork gaskets. I always tighten a part with silicone sealer to a point less than called for, then after giving it a chance to set up for a day, go back and "tweek" it a touch tighter thereby keeping from forcing most all of the silicone out. A professional mechanic doesn't have this choice.

 

Thanks for the replies everyone...would have been very helpful and I am sure will be helpful to anyone else researching the same problem.

Believe it or not they actually did replace the pan with OEM this morning. Covered all parts and labor...really unbelievable to me especially since it just happened Sunday and it has already been fixed. I guess there are still some reputable companies out there!

 

So with your faith restored, would you be going back to them?

Salim

 

Glad they stepped up to the plate and did the right thing. I have R&R'd one of those pans and I must say, that is the EASIEST pan to change I've ever seen in my life.

 

Absolutely...the fact they stepped up, took responsiblity and did the right thing they have earned my business back, as well as referring other people there as well. I think the experience has made me a little wary of these places in general, but I feel I can trust these guys now.