jaydlee

P1155 is Bank 1 Sensor 1 according to:
http://www.engine-light-help.com/lex...ine-light.html

Lexmex, you seem to be an expert but I am confused. Should I have ordered this sensor as well?
Again, the three codes I am getting are P1150, P1155 and P0125.

The only one I ordered is for P1150.

Thank you all for everyone's advice and help.

amblyn

hey um p1135 and p1130 refers to bank 1 sensor 1.

bank 1 is side of engine cylinder one is. so without reasearch p1150 and 55 is bank two sensor one. b1s1 and b2s1 sensors are the same part number. to remove i sprayed some pb blaster on it let sit overnight. autozone has tool rental program give them 25$ they let you use o2 sensor sockets then you get $$$ back in full when return tool. your sensor is in front of car open hood look down before engine will see exhaust manifold the sensor is thing sticking out with wire running toward battery/air intake use socket and may need a peice of pipe for leverage it will come out. so i am 99.9% sure your problem is bank 2 sensor 1 or youd get different codes.

thomas1

http://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-9009...=5336108637-20
air/fuel sensor

Lexmex

Just as amblyn said. It's right in the service manual, bank 2, sensor 1.

jaydlee

Thanks all. The part should be arriving today. So should the old sensor should be sprayed with WD40 or PB Blaster in order to loosen the part? Wish me luck please since I have never conducted a DIY on a car except change the cabin air filter.

Besides the O2 sensor, the repair shop strongly recommended:
1.) Iridium Spark Plugs
2.) Manifold Gasket
3.) Fuel Filter
4.) Air Filter
5.) Fuel Injection service

1.) I read the front 3 spark plugs are easy DIY but the back 3 are hard so I think I will leave that to the mechanic. However, how can I tell which one(s) are bad? Or is it just a mileage thing? My car has around 103,000 miles.
2.) There is an Intake Manifold Gasket and an Exhaust Manifold Gasket. The mechanic did not specify but which one do you think he means? Does this really need replacing, how do you tell and is it an easy DIY?
3.) I heard changing the fuel filter is not quite easy as well so I will probably leave that to the mechanic.
4.) Air filter should be easy so I will order that and install.
5.) Can I do the fuel injection service myself or should I leave this up to a mechanic? If it is an easy DIY what do I need to order and how do I do it?

Sorry for all theses questions but as someone mentioned before, it's an old car (2000) but only has 103k on it and just want to save some money given the economy.

***update: just checked my service records and I had my 6 spark plugs replaced 6/12/2010. So the mechanic must be lying about me needing to replace the spark plugs, correct? Also, my exhaust gasket was replaced on 9/12/2007...how often should this be replaced?***

Thanks all.
Dave

hypervish

He's just trying to make money off of you. No need for a fuel injection service. Just put in a bottle of injector cleaner if you feel the need to do something.

The air filter is a 2min process, so yes do that yourself.

The fuel filter is not needed (it doesn't have one that's replaceable without dropping the whole gas tank). It's built into the fuel pump, it's usually called the strainer.

Manifold gasket's aren't a normal wear and tear item, there is no maintenance schedule for them. It's unlikely they've started leaking again, if they were just replaced in 07.

salimshah

I suggest that fuel injector cleaner additive be added before you change your oil. The unburnt portion gets into the oil and thins it out.

A better understanding of all the chemical aids would ensure that you dont use/misuse the chemical. WD40 is a thin-penetrating lubricant .. which can displace grease (a thick stay put lubricant). PB Blaster is a penetrant which chemically alters the rust. Remember to unthread 1/2 a turn and tighten 1/4 of turn any stubborn nut/bolt.

Salim

jaydlee

I have no idea what "to unthread 1/2 a turn and tighten 1/4 of turn any stubborn nut/bolt" means. Sorry, when it comes to cars I am an idiot and know nothing. Also, if it is too hard to remove which chemical are you suggesting - WD40 or PB Blaster for the O2 sensor. Or something else entirely?

***Lastly, should I disconnect the battery before uninstalling/installing or is it safe to just leave as is? Don't want to electrocute myself or have the car blow up***

Thanks
Dave

hypervish

He means undo the bolt half a turn with a wrench, and then tighten it back up a quarter. Then loosen it again, and then tighten it again. This way you keep the threads in good condition .

jaydlee

weirdest thing. after months of having the engine light on, today when I started my vehicle and drove (twice), the engine light disappeared! I'm still going to replace the O2 sensor but wonder why the light is now gone?

***UPDATE: Engine light came back on. Part came in and I rented the tool kit from autozone. Please wish me luck. I will use WD40 if it's too hard to unscrew***

frank1961

Hi I have un connected the eletrical connector for b1s1 sensor, but have trouble to remove the nut, is counter clockwise to remove it? tried with different liq like deep creep, pb blaster, and even try to start the car for 10 min. still doenst work, any idea?

Thanks

carguy07

Righty tighty, lefty loosey