is there anything I should ask the seller and what should i look for?

the price is $3500

the only thing I dont like about it is that it is green, lol. but im sure I can could get used to it.


thanks

 

you will get used to the green i did

i would ask seller if its ok to bring it to a mechanic and bring it to yours to get checked out. ask why he is selling it. repairs seller performed check for all the obvious ie leaky fluids etc drive and make sure tranny doesnt slip or jerk put it low drive shift 2 then too drive be sure its smooth want to make sure your not buying someone elses problem. repairs can be costly other then that good luck let us know how you made out

 

The price seems extremely low to me, so make sure it's in good condition (mechanically) . Also, make sure oil changes were done on time. Like with any used car purchase you have to be careful, and look closely at everything, check all of the fluids and the condition of them.

 

Pull the transmission dip stick and check condition of fluid on a white towel...If it is dark brown or smells burnt, the transmssion could be in sad shape. For that price though a rebuild on tranny could give you years of good service if necessary...

 

This is what I do before the test drive:

• Remove the transmission dip-stick and check the color. If it is a red you are good to go. If it is reddish-brown, it is ok to buy it, but you should change the ATF soon.
• Remove the oil filler cap and check to see if it looks milky or doesn't look right in general.
• Check the coolant color to make sure that it new and not contaminated.
• Start the engine and go around to the exhaust pipe. Listen to make sure the fire rate seems constant. If the idle is rough there may be an ignition or valve problem.
• Ask the owner how often they changed the oil. >5k intervals and I would avoid it.
• Open the hood and rev the engine using the cable on the TB. Listen for any knocks or rattles, specifically from the valve covers.
• If you can, run a leak down or compression test. (The rear cylinders make this hard).

This is what I do during the test drive:

• Stop on level ground and put your foot on the brake, then put the car in park, then put the car in drive with you foot still on the brake. The car should shift within 1 second and it should feel like it wants to lurch forward.
• While driving the car pay attention to the gear shifts. Make sure they are smooth, fast and on time.
• Give the car WOT and see how it acts. A lot of cars will hesitate or stutters if they have problems.

 

Thanks for the advice guys... You've all been very informative!
I'm going to take a look at it this week.

 

Here are a few more.

With the engine off, but the steering unlocked, see how much dead space there is in the steering, left and right, and listen very carefully for clunks. Shouldn't get a bunch of play, but there will be some, and clunks mean front-end work is looming.

I know I have some coming my way @ 100K, but I know it's there.

Couldn't hurt, at all, to take a peek at CV (axle) boots for tears/grease contamination, and look around for either a really clean undercarriage or an oily undercarriage. Either are a sign of bad things. Dirty isn't any big deal, if it's not oily. Roads ain't clean....

 

That's an excellent point and it's something I rarely see talked about in terms of evaluating the RX300 for purchase. I am still working on a clunk myself (front passenger side) that occurs when I back up and turn or turn going forward say on a turn signal at a light. I am leaning toward the CV axle or the ball joint, but won't know until I can get more time to look at more closely. Since I did some recent brake work, I've noticed the noise has decreased significantly.