I have a 2WD 2001 RX300. My steering wheel vibrates/wobbles when i apply brakes at high speeds of about 60-70MPH.
I looked at some of the thread and they point to the front rotors being warped and some threads point to wheel out of balance or out of alignment.

Please can someone help me answer the following questions:

- Should i start checking the rotors first or get the balance/alignment checked first?
- Which brake get used in 2WD when braking. Rear or Front
- Which brake pads get used when using the parking brakes.
- Is it easy to check if the rotors are warped and do i necessarily need to remove the wheel.
And for my case which specific rotors should i look first. Or better would be to go to a free brake inspection place and ask them to check it.
- Is there any specific companies rotors people recommend here. I found that people here prefer buying from rockauto.

Thanks to all the wonderful people on this forum.

Regards,
RT

 

If it only happens while braking, it is the rotors. If it's only happening at high speeds, they're probably not warped too bad and you should be fine having them turned.

It would not be the alignment and if it was tire balance you would feel it all the time and not just while braking.

Front brakes do most of the braking on all cars.

The parking brake always uses the rear brakes.

It is easy to see if the rotors are warped and you have already done that. Steering wheel shimmy while braking means warped front rotors.

 

I fail to see what is confusing.

If the vibration/shimmy happens when you apply brakes then it has to do with rotors/pads. There are plenty of posts on this issue. Search is your best friend.

If it is independent of braking then wheel balancing is the most probable cause ,,, specially if it is at 55mph or higher speed,

Salim

 

Your rotors are warped. Get them replaced, and it should be as good as new.

 

+1. I wouldn't bother turning your rotors. It will just make them thinner and more likely to warp again. I have had very good experience with Raybestos AT (note AT) rotors. Be careful when buying new rotors. Some are very inexpensive and look good but have cheap metal and bad mechanical properties. In the future, make sure you always properly torque lug nuts.

 

Rotors warp because they get too hot. It only takes one panic stop or long downhill to warp new or turned rotors. Sometimes they warp prematurely because the calipers or sliders are binding and causing heat. Some people are just hard on brakes and battle warped rotors all the time. We turn rotors every day and your typically only taking .010-.015 off per side. When you start turning the rotors you will immediately know if they're going to clean up easily. And if not, you still have the option of replacing them. There was a time period in the late nineties when we had to turn all new rotors because they weren't straight, right out of the box. Unless they were Factory parts.

 

Brand new Raybestos AT rotors are about $45. What does it cost to resurface a rotor?

 

So it looks RAYBESTOR AT is rotor of choice
Rockauto is selling for $55.79 .

Pardon my ignorance. But does the rotors come in pair or do i need to order 2.

RAYBESTOS Part # 96820 Advanced Technology; Outside Diameter 11.65" / 5 Bolt Holes
Front
$55.79

 

Shouldn't cost more that $30. It only takes 15 minutes.

My point wasn't to say it isn't cheap to replace them, or that you shouldn't. Just that turning them isn't going to make them warp again because they're a tiny bit thinner. It is how you use and/or maintain them that makes them warp.

Personally I would rather turn a bit off a stock rotor if it's not in bad shape than replace with a cheap aftermarket rotor. I know aftermarket rotors work fine and I have no beef with them. I just prefer factory parts whenever possible. I have been installing aftermarket and factory parts as well as turning rotors for going on 26 years.

 

I've found Napa Auto Parts have quality rotors and parts if you want to purchase local. If you have AAA they give a 5-10% discount.

If you replace them yourself... and it's likely been a while since they've been changed, be sure to brush off all the dirt & rusty parts. A can of Brake Parts Cleaner is a must to clean the rotors before mounting as well as other parts. Definitely clean and lube the caliper guide pins.

This (click) write up was very helpful.

Finally, retorque the wheel lug nuts to proper torque. This will prevent pre-mature warping. (Some shops really torque those babies down too much which causes issues!)

Enjoy.

 

I really agree with this.

 

x3. This is one of the leading causes of warped rotors. Mechanics/Tire Shop's over-tighten the wheel lugs with the airgun, and it ends up warping the rotors.

 

Thanks to everyone for their helpful responses..
Would really appreciate if someone can help with few more questions:

- My rotors were resurfaced (hopefully!!) by Midas at 70K when they had sucked big money from me 6 years ago. Now i have 117K miles. Can someone let me know how much width of the rotor is considered acceptable so that i can decide if i should go for new rotors or go with another round of resurfacing. Local shop is going to charge $10/rotor for resurfacing.

- I am a normal driver, no racing or hard braking. In case i need to go to new rotors would the following Professional Grade rotros be okay for normal use
RAYBESTOS Part # 96820R Professional Grade; Outside Diameter 11.65" / 5 Bolt Holes

Or does everyone strongly suggests the Advanced Technology rotors.
RAYBESTOS Part # 96820 Advanced Technology; Outside Diameter 11.65" / 5 Bolt Holes

There is a 20$ difference and unfortunately i need to save money, if possible.

Thanks,
RT

 

I'm not sure of the difference between the two, but when you are talking about the main (front) braking surface, it is best to go with quality.

I like NAPA parts and put on these front rotors about 10k ago. They are still braking nicely and smooth.

If the rotors you have now are original, I would strongly consider replacing them and not resurfacing. Rotors rust after time from inside the cooling vanes and this weakens them. Mine warped due to this weakening from the inside out. Replacing them will give you solid braking surfaces and insure longevity.

Enjoy!

 

I don't know what the minimum thickness is off hand but it should be published somewhere on the rotor itself. Sounds like you got 47k out of the last time you turned them. You can measure them yourself or let the brake shop tell you if they are thick enough or not.

If money is tight, $10 to turn a rotor is a no brainer. There is nothing wrong with cutting a little off of them provided you stay within the minimum thickness.

How bad is the shimmy? Does it shake the steering wheel pretty good or is it subtle? If it is slight, you could even put it off until after Christmas or even until you need new pads if it doesn't get worse.

A lot of customers do nothing about a slight shimmy and just wait until it's time for pads.