Special socket for Ball Joint R/R...?
#1
Rookie
Thread Starter
Special socket for Ball Joint R/R...?
Wow... what a SOB of a job just to change a ball joint. I can't get in close enough to put a box wrench or a socket on the nut. Getting the cotter key out was even tough. Dude on ToyotaNation forum said the ES ball joint is also (same ft end as RX) impossible to get to without removing everything as if you were changing a wheel bearing.
I've got about five hours invested and its still not done. Drove to tool store to buy a 30 mm deep socket and two foot extension pipe to get the high torque wheel nut off. Then drove back to the store to buy a Ball joint puller that won't fit in the area. Back to the store to get some metal cutting saw blades tomorrow.
Have any of you actually personally changed a RX ball joint? There must be a special specific to Lexus RX ball joint tool to be able to do this job easily. Do you know where I can buy one?
Jerry
I've got about five hours invested and its still not done. Drove to tool store to buy a 30 mm deep socket and two foot extension pipe to get the high torque wheel nut off. Then drove back to the store to buy a Ball joint puller that won't fit in the area. Back to the store to get some metal cutting saw blades tomorrow.
Have any of you actually personally changed a RX ball joint? There must be a special specific to Lexus RX ball joint tool to be able to do this job easily. Do you know where I can buy one?
Jerry
#2
Moderator
Service manual says to remove the steering knuckle and hold it on a bench vice and then use puller tool to separate the ball joint,
I am wondering if your problem is due to access limitations.
Salim
I am wondering if your problem is due to access limitations.
Salim
#3
Rookie
Thread Starter
Ah Ha!
Thanks Salim,
Yes!.....There is a limitation in having no access to the frigging nut on the ball joint. No limitation in having access to the vice....its just six feet away bolted to the work bench. It all makes sense now...to the vice we go.
I have already got the steering nuckle 90% off. Just the two bolts on the strut left to take off. I've done hundreds of ball joint R/R's through the years but they all had shocks only (40 yrs ago). Dad Gum It! None were this much work. Come to think of it....Many had king pins and not ball joints?
A lot of work to just change a ball joint. Don't have this problem on a Lexus GS...they just fall off! and the car hits the ground (lol).
Pisses me off....I just had the Struts off a few days ago. Hind sights always 20-20.
Thanks bro,
Jerry
#4
Pole Position
What I did was supported the car, loosened the ball joint to Support arm bolts and nuts and then backed the castle nut off...this allows the ball joint assembly to walk its way off....kind of a pain...I used a wrench for the castle nut.
#5
Rookie
Thread Starter
One side done...
Thomas1,
My ball joint castle nut lacks clearance to get a box wrench (let alone a socket) on due to the reductor ring shield VERY close proximity (1/4"). Thats...If I would be able to get the rusted cotter key out!
Salimshah had the answer (for me). I put the whole shooting match in the vice as per instructions. Them I was able to (carefully) remove the pressed in reductor ring shield out of the bearing assembly and get a socket on the new ball joint nut. The new Raybestos (rockauto) joint does not have a castle cotter key type nut. I had to saw the old nut off it was badly buggered up. No problem in the vice.
Seems like a lot of work for just a ball joint. I wavered and vacillated about installing a new wheel bearing, but didn't. I have the other side to do yet. I will try your suggestion first, before I pull the whole thing off. I'll report the results. Thank you.
Jerry
My ball joint castle nut lacks clearance to get a box wrench (let alone a socket) on due to the reductor ring shield VERY close proximity (1/4"). Thats...If I would be able to get the rusted cotter key out!
Salimshah had the answer (for me). I put the whole shooting match in the vice as per instructions. Them I was able to (carefully) remove the pressed in reductor ring shield out of the bearing assembly and get a socket on the new ball joint nut. The new Raybestos (rockauto) joint does not have a castle cotter key type nut. I had to saw the old nut off it was badly buggered up. No problem in the vice.
Seems like a lot of work for just a ball joint. I wavered and vacillated about installing a new wheel bearing, but didn't. I have the other side to do yet. I will try your suggestion first, before I pull the whole thing off. I'll report the results. Thank you.
Jerry
#6
Pole Position
I know there is zero clearance there but that is why I undid the nut in increments while dropping the three mounting bolts and nuts. But since you have dropped the driveshaft out then you are good to go...remember the nut for the drive shaft has to be tightened to 216 ft lbs.
#7
Rookie
Thread Starter
Thomas
I got it all back together several days ago. I understand that you understand (lol) the zero clearance problem. Your dropping down the ball joint after loosing the three bolts might just work. I will try it on the remaining side.
A big 10/4 on the 212 torque. I brought all my tools down here to FL from MI when I retired. I have a large 100- 250 pound torque wrench and a two foot long pipe...does the job, with ease.
In another time 40 +/- years past. I was a MI all certifications mechanic, my dad had a heavy repair garage. I got into the real estate business in 67 and never turned a wrench for a dollar after.
But the tools I kept, and the experience came in handy for hobbies such as A/S & S/S drag cars at Detroit Dragway and, Drag boats through the years. I always changed my own oil and did all none warranty work on my cars even if they were new, still do. I didn't trust the Stealer Dealers... still don't. I never thought that at this advanced age that I would still be laying on garage floors getting my hands greasy and learning new ways to fix cars. Thanks.
Life's been good....
I got it all back together several days ago. I understand that you understand (lol) the zero clearance problem. Your dropping down the ball joint after loosing the three bolts might just work. I will try it on the remaining side.
A big 10/4 on the 212 torque. I brought all my tools down here to FL from MI when I retired. I have a large 100- 250 pound torque wrench and a two foot long pipe...does the job, with ease.
In another time 40 +/- years past. I was a MI all certifications mechanic, my dad had a heavy repair garage. I got into the real estate business in 67 and never turned a wrench for a dollar after.
But the tools I kept, and the experience came in handy for hobbies such as A/S & S/S drag cars at Detroit Dragway and, Drag boats through the years. I always changed my own oil and did all none warranty work on my cars even if they were new, still do. I didn't trust the Stealer Dealers... still don't. I never thought that at this advanced age that I would still be laying on garage floors getting my hands greasy and learning new ways to fix cars. Thanks.
Life's been good....
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