Brakes and rotors
#16
I had both my front and rear pads replaced and rotors machined several months back. Same as you Toyota wanted $250 per axle and the Midas by me wanted $220 per axle. For $30 I was going to go with Toyota when luckily my local Lexus dealer had a service special of $250 from regular price of $350 and I got a 2-day 2012 loaner and wash included. My recommendation is check for service specials with Lexus/Toyota and try to go with them and OEM materials unless there really is a big price difference. I will say the braking is amazing since I changed, of course I apparently was down to 2/32 front and back.
#17
Moderator
My dopey sister and bro in law took their landcruiser into a toyota dealership and paid almost 3 grand for brakes all the way around...I was so annoyed at them for not calling me. I just hope they are gold lined or something.
As for your parts....
For pads, dont get the cheapo "silver" or mid grade pads...I've had more of the material fall of the backing plate then I care to admit. One day I had light bulb go off and started to buy the most expensive pad they carried in stock...price dif is usally less then 50 bucks more but I no longer have any problems. 50 bucks is nothing for some piece of mind over several years. Adavanced use to sell the Bendix which I liked and now they have Wagner for their premium brand. Also has worked out well for me.
On rotors, I dont buy that OEM is the only way to go but I dont get the cheapys either. I sort of follow my reasoning on the pads although I never acutally had problems with the cheapys. I try to stick with bendix or brembo (yeah they make oem style stuff for resonable prices..lol).
Like mentioned earlier, check for online coupons for advanced auto. Buy online and pickup at the store. Your other option for decent prices is Rockauto.com.
As for your parts....
For pads, dont get the cheapo "silver" or mid grade pads...I've had more of the material fall of the backing plate then I care to admit. One day I had light bulb go off and started to buy the most expensive pad they carried in stock...price dif is usally less then 50 bucks more but I no longer have any problems. 50 bucks is nothing for some piece of mind over several years. Adavanced use to sell the Bendix which I liked and now they have Wagner for their premium brand. Also has worked out well for me.
On rotors, I dont buy that OEM is the only way to go but I dont get the cheapys either. I sort of follow my reasoning on the pads although I never acutally had problems with the cheapys. I try to stick with bendix or brembo (yeah they make oem style stuff for resonable prices..lol).
Like mentioned earlier, check for online coupons for advanced auto. Buy online and pickup at the store. Your other option for decent prices is Rockauto.com.
Salim
#18
I had both my front and rear pads replaced and rotors machined several months back. Same as you Toyota wanted $250 per axle and the Midas by me wanted $220 per axle. For $30 I was going to go with Toyota when luckily my local Lexus dealer had a service special of $250 from regular price of $350 and I got a 2-day 2012 loaner and wash included. My recommendation is check for service specials with Lexus/Toyota and try to go with them and OEM materials unless there really is a big price difference. I will say the braking is amazing since I changed, of course I apparently was down to 2/32 front and back.
I never used to do this until I started road racing and was amazed the first time I did it. Changed it in all my cars and trucks and the dif is incredable.
#19
I need to change my front brake pads and rotors.
Please can someone help clarify if i need anything else other than the following:
- Front rotors (thinking of getting RAYBESTOS Part # 96820R Professional Grade)
- Front brake pads (Bought Monroe CX707 Ceramic Premium Brake Pad )
- Wrench to open various bolts
Few questions:
Do i need to bleed the brake fluid after changing the rotors and brake pads?
Do i need some brake pad SHIM kit. Unfortunately i don't know what these are.
Thanks,
Trips
#20
You don't need to bleed the brakes (but it's a good idea if the fluid is more than a few years old).
You don't need a shim kit. The pads that you bought will come with the shims (probably already attached to the back of the pads). You will reuse the pad support plates which are the little shims that the pads ride on. Normally you can just clean them up and put them back on. The brakes on this car area VERY easy to work on. No reason to be intimidated at all. Pick up some disk brake lube so you can grease the slides, the back of the pads and the support plates.
You don't need a shim kit. The pads that you bought will come with the shims (probably already attached to the back of the pads). You will reuse the pad support plates which are the little shims that the pads ride on. Normally you can just clean them up and put them back on. The brakes on this car area VERY easy to work on. No reason to be intimidated at all. Pick up some disk brake lube so you can grease the slides, the back of the pads and the support plates.
#21
Moderator
You can choose any after market, but I suggest stick to OEM. They may may not be the best of bread, but they perform adequately for day to day driving. If you have not worked on brakes before, why add unknown in the mix [many people have been sold wrong after market rotors.
Buy couple of more things,
Brake-pad grease [this you dont buy from Lexus/Toyota]
Brake rotor/drum cleaner [spray can]
Gloves.
Turkey baster [I use Turkey injector ... same thing people use to inject horses ... I use the suck-action instead ot inject]
4" (3" might work) C clamp.
Twine or wire to support the caliper.
Can of fresh brake fluid and a helper in case you want to bleed/flush the current brake fluid.
Regarding shims and boots, you have to examine the ones that come off. Torn or about to tear boots should be replaced. Remember the direction and location of shims as they come off. You can clean them and reuse after applying a thin coating of the brake grease.
Remember to pair up inner and outer pads. I once assembled one side with two outer pads
Only one bolt of the caliper needs to be removed and moveable assembly swings up on the other bolt. Use the "C" clamp to push the piston in and keep an eye on the reservoir as the displaced fluid will run back up [use the baster to keep level between 1/3 or higher and keep sucking away the rest.
Note: some folks use the bleeder to dispel the fluid. I dont as I worry that I will introduce air in the system. When new pads are installed, I always flush the old fluid out.
Salim
Buy couple of more things,
Brake-pad grease [this you dont buy from Lexus/Toyota]
Brake rotor/drum cleaner [spray can]
Gloves.
Turkey baster [I use Turkey injector ... same thing people use to inject horses ... I use the suck-action instead ot inject]
4" (3" might work) C clamp.
Twine or wire to support the caliper.
Can of fresh brake fluid and a helper in case you want to bleed/flush the current brake fluid.
Regarding shims and boots, you have to examine the ones that come off. Torn or about to tear boots should be replaced. Remember the direction and location of shims as they come off. You can clean them and reuse after applying a thin coating of the brake grease.
Remember to pair up inner and outer pads. I once assembled one side with two outer pads
Only one bolt of the caliper needs to be removed and moveable assembly swings up on the other bolt. Use the "C" clamp to push the piston in and keep an eye on the reservoir as the displaced fluid will run back up [use the baster to keep level between 1/3 or higher and keep sucking away the rest.
Note: some folks use the bleeder to dispel the fluid. I dont as I worry that I will introduce air in the system. When new pads are installed, I always flush the old fluid out.
Salim
#23
You can choose any after market, but I suggest stick to OEM. They may may not be the best of bread, but they perform adequately for day to day driving. If you have not worked on brakes before, why add unknown in the mix [many people have been sold wrong after market rotors.
Buy couple of more things,
Brake-pad grease [this you dont buy from Lexus/Toyota]
Brake rotor/drum cleaner [spray can]
Gloves.
Turkey baster [I use Turkey injector ... same thing people use to inject horses ... I use the suck-action instead ot inject]
4" (3" might work) C clamp.
Twine or wire to support the caliper.
Can of fresh brake fluid and a helper in case you want to bleed/flush the current brake fluid.
Regarding shims and boots, you have to examine the ones that come off. Torn or about to tear boots should be replaced. Remember the direction and location of shims as they come off. You can clean them and reuse after applying a thin coating of the brake grease.
Remember to pair up inner and outer pads. I once assembled one side with two outer pads
Only one bolt of the caliper needs to be removed and moveable assembly swings up on the other bolt. Use the "C" clamp to push the piston in and keep an eye on the reservoir as the displaced fluid will run back up [use the baster to keep level between 1/3 or higher and keep sucking away the rest.
Note: some folks use the bleeder to dispel the fluid. I dont as I worry that I will introduce air in the system. When new pads are installed, I always flush the old fluid out.
Salim
Buy couple of more things,
Brake-pad grease [this you dont buy from Lexus/Toyota]
Brake rotor/drum cleaner [spray can]
Gloves.
Turkey baster [I use Turkey injector ... same thing people use to inject horses ... I use the suck-action instead ot inject]
4" (3" might work) C clamp.
Twine or wire to support the caliper.
Can of fresh brake fluid and a helper in case you want to bleed/flush the current brake fluid.
Regarding shims and boots, you have to examine the ones that come off. Torn or about to tear boots should be replaced. Remember the direction and location of shims as they come off. You can clean them and reuse after applying a thin coating of the brake grease.
Remember to pair up inner and outer pads. I once assembled one side with two outer pads
Only one bolt of the caliper needs to be removed and moveable assembly swings up on the other bolt. Use the "C" clamp to push the piston in and keep an eye on the reservoir as the displaced fluid will run back up [use the baster to keep level between 1/3 or higher and keep sucking away the rest.
Note: some folks use the bleeder to dispel the fluid. I dont as I worry that I will introduce air in the system. When new pads are installed, I always flush the old fluid out.
Salim
#24
Never changed brake pads or rotors on my RX300 by myself and getting some encouragement from this thread. Last time i was burned by Midas really bad.
I need to change my front brake pads and rotors.
Please can someone help clarify if i need anything else other than the following:
- Front rotors (thinking of getting RAYBESTOS Part # 96820R Professional Grade)
- Front brake pads (Bought Monroe CX707 Ceramic Premium Brake Pad )
- Wrench to open various bolts
Few questions:
Do i need to bleed the brake fluid after changing the rotors and brake pads?
Do i need some brake pad SHIM kit. Unfortunately i don't know what these are.
Thanks,
Trips
I need to change my front brake pads and rotors.
Please can someone help clarify if i need anything else other than the following:
- Front rotors (thinking of getting RAYBESTOS Part # 96820R Professional Grade)
- Front brake pads (Bought Monroe CX707 Ceramic Premium Brake Pad )
- Wrench to open various bolts
Few questions:
Do i need to bleed the brake fluid after changing the rotors and brake pads?
Do i need some brake pad SHIM kit. Unfortunately i don't know what these are.
Thanks,
Trips
I noticed you are getting ceramic pad on the rear. Are the ones on the front ceramic as well? I honestly dont know if matters if its mixed but its just food for thought.
#25
Moderator
It is a straightforward push on the piston. You do not need any special tool (no spiral action). In a pinch you can do without the C clamp and use long screwdriver wedging in carefully (in case it slips).
Buy the C clamp.
Salim
Buy the C clamp.
Salim
#26
Moderator
Oops never answered this question
"Do i need to bleed the brake fluid after changing the rotors and brake pads?"
If you take care and not introduce air then you need not. [do not loosen the bleeder valve and let the fluid travel up. [I wont argue that contaminated fluid will work its way back]. Once new pads are in, you can pump and bleed through the bleeder valve with an assistant [once again taking care that you do not introduce air ... by closing the bleeder valve before lifting the pressure off the brake pedal and making sure the reservoir is atleast 1/3 full at all times.
Salim
"Do i need to bleed the brake fluid after changing the rotors and brake pads?"
If you take care and not introduce air then you need not. [do not loosen the bleeder valve and let the fluid travel up. [I wont argue that contaminated fluid will work its way back]. Once new pads are in, you can pump and bleed through the bleeder valve with an assistant [once again taking care that you do not introduce air ... by closing the bleeder valve before lifting the pressure off the brake pedal and making sure the reservoir is atleast 1/3 full at all times.
Salim
#27
Everyone here always complains about price...Listen, you did not buy a pile of crap, you bought a Lexus. Do you surmise that a Ferrari owner complains about the price of an oil change or brake job. They do not. Lexus OEM parts are better for your Lexus than anything else. You have to watch out for a lot of aftermarket parts, they probably will not last as long. If your pads and rotors lasted this long, just put the same ones back on, they will last the same amount of time. If you like eBay rotors and pads, get ready for the likely rotor warp and squeaky brakes. If you buy a nice car, put nice parts back on.
#28
Moderator
Everyone here always complains about price...Listen, you did not buy a pile of crap, you bought a Lexus. Do you surmise that a Ferrari owner complains about the price of an oil change or brake job. They do not. Lexus OEM parts are better for your Lexus than anything else. You have to watch out for a lot of aftermarket parts, they probably will not last as long. If your pads and rotors lasted this long, just put the same ones back on, they will last the same amount of time. If you like eBay rotors and pads, get ready for the likely rotor warp and squeaky brakes. If you buy a nice car, put nice parts back on.
Salim
#29
$250/axel is cheap for an RX! But, what exactly are you getting?
I just replaced the whole Parking Brake Cable system(3 cables, brackets, nuts/bolts, shoes, spring kit) All 4 rotors pads for <$500. But, it takes some time!
I just did my 2nd full brake job on my wifes '01 RX awd. It's not a tough job, just take some time.
The first job was with Brembo rotors/Akebono Pro-Act Ceramic in 2006
The second is with Wagner rotors/Centric Posi-Quiet Ceramic this Memorial Weekend 2012 w/P-Brk Cbls.
If doing the job yourself, buy quality parts/name brand(s) by price. I can't answer for the Muffler/Brake shops and the quality of their parts as I don't let anyone touch my brakes. Yeah, they're not cheap. For what they want for an axel, I can do the whole job myself and have money for a vacation.
I just replaced the whole Parking Brake Cable system(3 cables, brackets, nuts/bolts, shoes, spring kit) All 4 rotors pads for <$500. But, it takes some time!
I just did my 2nd full brake job on my wifes '01 RX awd. It's not a tough job, just take some time.
The first job was with Brembo rotors/Akebono Pro-Act Ceramic in 2006
The second is with Wagner rotors/Centric Posi-Quiet Ceramic this Memorial Weekend 2012 w/P-Brk Cbls.
If doing the job yourself, buy quality parts/name brand(s) by price. I can't answer for the Muffler/Brake shops and the quality of their parts as I don't let anyone touch my brakes. Yeah, they're not cheap. For what they want for an axel, I can do the whole job myself and have money for a vacation.
#30
You have got to be kidding. Granted there are junk parts out there but to say the OEM is the best is a joke. There are plenty of aftermarket parts that are >= to OEM and will save you a bundle.
Do you really think people who buy a lexus should be foolish and just throw their money away?
Do you really think people who buy a lexus should be foolish and just throw their money away?