Margate330

I have this tool and found it not very good.
It grabs the sprocket of but wants to let go and twist a little when torquing down the cam sprocket bolt but it did get the job done.
It helped to have a bar that fits over the end to make longer for extra leverage for torquing the cam sprocket bolts back on- I thinking I used two hose clamps on a pipe because I didn't have anything the wide handle would slide down into.

I ordered one of these from fleabay.
The day I started the job I opened the package and someone swapped the socket with a cheap Kobalt socket from Lowes.
Like I said, I was lucky I got it off quick and someone didn't over torque it and wasn't rusted cuz I only had a standard impact socket to use.

As you probably already noticed, this is a special tool, thick wall socket with extra mass for using with an impact gun for max hammering force.
I think I will go ahead and get one ordered just to have it but buying from a different seller this time.


That sounds like a nightmare. lol
I bet you seen your share of tough jobs turning wrenches on these cars

I did the Tbelt job in 2 steps since my car is my only daily driver.

Weekend one- I broke the crankshaft bolt loose and pulled the crankshaft pulley just to make sure no issues. then put it all back together.
Weekend two- banged it out and did the job.

salimshah

I made the pulley holding tool myself. You need a large hole in the middle to pass the socket through and two holes in line to allow holding bolts. I kept the bar long enough to reach the ground on one side. Breaker bar with extension did the job for me. Some one even used a 2x4 with the 3 in line holes. The tool has been useful for all 3 [RX, SC and GS]. Harborfreight sells the harmonic puller.

Lot of mechanics use thread locker, but I used proper torque. So if some one has done the change before, you may need to heat the bolt.

There is another popular way ... bump start. [search if needed].

Remember to hand spin the crank at least 2 full turn after the belt is installed. I freaked out that the belt markings which I set would not line up after 1 or more turns. Sanity prevailed once I realized that the belt length is not equal to 1 spin of the crank and the markings on the belt are for initial setup. Markings on the cam pulleys and crank must match on every 2nd turn of the crank. Markings on cams are straight forward, but I had doubts about the proper mark/tooth+position on the crank. Installing the main pulley [temporarily] gave a clearer mark.

Salim

maxSteel

I probably could have hacked around first to see if I could get by without buying any of the tools but it's a pain getting stuck in mid job.
Sometimes trying to get by with the wrong tools can create a bigger job or just make the job take a lot longer than it should.

maxSteel

I did the job over the weekend. Took me most of the day.

The crankshaft pulley holder tool is solid but to me is not designed right. It should have four notches in the front to mesh with the four ridges in the pulley.
Instead it has two notches which aren't wide enough anyway and it just rides on top of the ridges. So all the force is on those bolts which could lead to them shearing.
Ten minutes with an angle grinder might make it a better tool.

I didn't have a problem getting the crankshaft bolt out. I used a cheap electric impact wrench from Harbor Freight and it came right out.
The crankshaft pulley holder was good both for removing and installing the crankshaft bolt.
The camshaft pulley holder tool was good both for removing/installing the bolts and rotating the pulleys as needed.
I used the harmonic balancer puller loaner from Advance Auto, but none of the bolts in the kit fit the pulley. I used the bolts from the pulley holder tool.
Used a paint lid tool to remove the seals and a PVC fitting, bolt, and washer to install them. I would have preferred a better removal tool.

Following the install sequence worked well.
Lined up the dotted line, then clamped the belt in place.
Lined up the line on the LH pulley (rotated it a bit to make it easy), clamped in place, rotate it back to tension belt.
Same with the RH pulley.
One thing to watch out for is the RH pulley keeps trying to rotate off of the top position.
I had to remove the #1 idler pulley to create enough slack to get the belt into place on the RH pulley, then install it last

No problem removing the side motor mount and water pump without removing studs. Loosened the front motor mount a few turns and jacked up the engine a bit.
I couldn't get at the power steering pump pivot bolt so I pried it as needed.
A powered ratchet wrench (I used Makita XRW01) helps a lot.

salimshah

Many years back I did a T belt on Honda Accord and swore I would not do any transverse mounted engine again. Well with RX, I broke my rule and found there is plenty of room to work but the only issue was with line of sight on the cam near the firewall. Mirrors worked for me and now the phone camera.

Did you examine the idler? My old one was turning blue due to lack of lubrication.

Also did you opt to torque the main pulley bolt or reached out to locktite?

Salim

maxSteel

I replaced the timing belt, idlers, tensioner, seals, water pump, power steering belt. The old timing belt had about 140k miles on it and still looked pretty good.
I used a nice size mirror to see that rear camshaft. I took my time with it. I put white paint on everything to make it easier to spot.
I torqued the crankshaft and camshaft bolts. Everything else was by feel.
I used Loctite 242 on the #1 idler as directed by the manual.

I was disappointed to find the rear camshaft seal wasn't leaking, it's coming from the rear valve cover. Project for another day.

Margate330

Plenty of room to work, that's funny Salim.

Guess it could be worse, at least the engine crade doesn't need to be dropped to get to the timing chain like on the newer RX350's.

salimshah

My comparison was to Accord, on top of it it was in line 4 ... that one never again.

Salim

Margate330

That sounds like a real fun beauty if you won't go there again. haha
Sounds like it was too much engine in tiny space.

So compared to that one the RX300 gives plenty of room, that makes sense and I think about things like serviceability when car shopping.

BatmanLex

After most ppl recommending not to do this if you don’t have much experience, I’m thinking of getting a independent to work on it. I got quoted $700 for timing belt and water pump replacement. If I go the independent route, what else should I ask for him to do while he’s doing those 2? I haven’t asked what brand of parts he will use but I’m assuming not oem. Any advice would help? Thanks for this thread.

maxSteel

I was quoted $1600 at my local Firestone. For $700 I might have had them do it.

Change everything shown in the kit: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...l#post11314081
This post has the Toyota part numbers: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...ml#post9737619. I found some of them were priced very reasonably at the dealer.

salimshah

Once you break it down to parts and labor you can make the right decision. The price of parts [including parts like water-pump, seals, idlers] can drive up the price. $700 seems a bit low.

Salim

BatmanLex

For the people that got independent mechanic quotes, is that them buying the parts you want them to use or you providing the parts? Thanks for the advice.

maxSteel

I don't know any garages that will let you bring your own parts. It would blur the overall responsibility for the job and they also mark up the part prices a lot.

salimshah

I was not explicit in coming with a cost. Although I spent upwards of 7hrs for timing belt but a trained mechanic with equipment should be able to do it in 4hrs or less. Water pump replacement was a bit of chore for me as the studs had to be pulled.

Skilled labor rates are $1xx. I have not paid dealership labor rates and I am so disconnected. [I mentioned 25c for a cup of coffee and every one laughed and said that I have not been to Starbucks ever]

Labor 4hrs + parts.

Salim