Avogel

[QUOTE=Avogel;10396073]I was able to change out Bank 2 VVT and Bank1 and 2 filter screens. Having much trouble with the pulling Bank 1 VVT out the engine.

Removed the signal cable and the small bolt. At first, the VVT rotate but with some tpping on the bolt eye and applying as much strength as I could, it finally broke free and can be rotate about 180 degrees, until either the bolt eye or plug hits something. Twisting it back and forth while pulling, the VVT did not come out at all. Used a screw driver under the bolt eye tried to pry it up, tapped on the top of it, tried to put oil between the VVT and engine, used vice grips and tired to pull it out while twisting, nothing worked.

So any ideas?

Bank 1 VVT. Can rotate but not extract.

================== UPDATE 7PM 30Dec2018 ===============
While trying again to extract the Bank 1 VVT (picture is of the Bank 2 VVT I already replaced), it appears that the upper part of the VVT that is above the engine (blue arrow) is turning independently of the lower part that is inside the engine (red arrow). It feels like the lower part is welded into place (hopefully not).

If no one suggest something to try, that is successful, I plan to replace everything I disconnected and try to start and run the engine for a few seconds. I have two clean filter screens and one new Bank 2 VVT installed. Then try to pull Bank 1 VVT again.



Just saw some suggestions on removing a stuck/broken VVT.

“fastnoypi If you have a bolt mostly threaded through it, there is an examples of several guys on youtube that borrowed a slide hammer with hub adapter to get his vvt solenoid out the rest of the way”

maxSteel

Did you try swapping the #2 and #4 coils?

Avogel

Having same problem removing the Bank 1 sleeve. Top broke off, using locking vice grips was able to remove guts all except sleeve. Have tried several things (eg lates try was screwing into the sleeve a bolt extractor, attaching locking vice grips to top of extractor, placing a flat iron bar between vice grip's handles with a plastic tie around the handles to keep them from popping open, and then a fulcrum on the metal part of the engine to get mechanical advantage and avoid wires etc) to pry it out so far failure.

Next, will screw in a 7/8" eye hook into the sleeve, then placing a metal pipe (e.g., galvanize water pipe) in the eye, and then using a fulcrum try to pry it out. Also have been spraying the heck out of it with liquid wrench.

BTW, I believe I read on this or another thread that when a bolt was screwed into the sleeve, the sleeve broke free and turned.

99rx

iTrader: (6)

Be careful, the liquid wrench you are spraying is now being mixed with your oil. Be sure to change the oil right when you complete the job.

Avogel

This is one way to remove Bank 1 VVT sleeve frozen in the engine.

Below is a picture of the end results of removing both VVTs. Bank 2 took a little work, but Bank 1 was most difficult.
I used a lot of Liquid Wrench lub from the start. Spraying on the VVT parts and into the filter holes.
Also, twisting to break the parts free seemed to work best.
To get more room to maneuver, I removed the air intake.
Mark any hoses disconnected. One other post suggest pictures or filming. Comes in handy when you are putting everything back.

Of course, use this information at your own risk. Results vary.

THANKS to all who contributed to this activity. I had no idea what was wrong with my vehicle until I bought a code reader and searching found great info on this thread and posting site.

From " Brunette Motors ...persistence is key!"




The following is relative to Bank 1. Probably the same can be done to Bank 2.

The next two photos show how I extracted the top of the VVT with just the tools I had. I used a vice grip to grab on top of the VVT, a plastic tie to keep the grip from popping opening, place a piece of wood on a firm spot on the engine, then inserted a 3' long flat steel bar into the grip and carefully pushed down on the bar. After a number of tries, the top of the VVT broke off exposing the top of the sleeve, a lock washer, and the top of an oil distributing part (what ever it is called) inside the sleeve.

Removed the lock washer with a screw driver being careful not to scar the flange. Then used pliers, long nose or other, to remove the inner part of the sleeve. All that was left was the sleeve inside the engine. Sprayed oil liberally on it.




After a number of attempts to pull the sleeve, I saw another post about using an extractor. So I bought the largest screw extractor I could find (9/16") at an auto parts store.


Using a socket and extender, I carefully placed the extractor in the sleeve and started to turn (CCW of course). At first the sleeve did not move, but over the next day or so, I removed the extractor, sprayed lub, and then after a few hours, tried again. Each time I increased the torque on the extractor until the sleeve finally broke free and moved a bit. I continued to twist the extractor CW and CCW until I FINALLY was able to pull the sleeve out. What a relief!!








Then cleaned up the flange, oiled the new VVT, and it slipped right in. Tightened the 4 blots (VVTs and Filters) and connected hoses. Today, will recheck all hose connections, secure the clamps, and reinstall the air intake box. Then the smoke test.
Will update this post later.

This post is just for removing a frozen VVT sleeve. I have other post on the filter screens and removal of the VVT. Just FYI.

=============== Results of Driving Tests ===============
Drove the RX300 short trips at slow speeds 20 miles or so, checked for leak etc, then a few trips for 20 or so miles at speeds up to 50. Sucess!! OD is back, engine does not cut down, and breaks are as they were before.
But as before, CEL came back on. Mechanic that was doing all my Lexus work over the last few years, tell me that it is blow by, oil recirculating into the intake causing the issue. During my test drives, scan the codes and got one ----"Confirmed Trouble Codes Scan Report---- 1 Confirmed Trouble Codes Trouble Codes: 1. P0171 System Too Lean Bank 1". Guess that is the next task, albeit not as urgent as losing the OD and engine cutting out.

THANKS for all that take the time to comment. It really helps.

mindful

Any suggestions for removing a very stuck bank 1 OCV?

Bank 2 OCV came out without trouble, but I am wary of breaking the bank 1 solenoid.

Newbie female diy-er trying to salvage my 2001 rx 300 with 205K miles.
I'm guessing it's the original bank 1 OCV and perhaps I just don't have the strength to tug it out....?

Many thanks for your extremely helpful step-by-step posts!

salimshah

Patience and persistence are the two things you need and definitely not the brute strength. Remember back and forth twisting will set it free.

Salim

quyxanh

Thanks BearsLexus for the detailed instruction. My brother with proper tools helped replacing my two OCV sensors and now the car is running great again.

Avogel

My Bank 2 came out easily, and like yours Bank 1 seemed to be welded to the engine. I was also worried about breaking VVT 1 in the engine but after a couple of days of trying to get it out whole, I broke off the top. BTW, must give credit to another author on doing that.

I knew that all I had to do was twist (not pull) the sleeve a bit to break it free and then I could pull out the sleeve. Tried several ways to twist it and what worked was using a screw remover (and possible the liquid wrench). First I removed a washer that covered the sleeve. If I remember correctly, I used a screw driver (being VERY CAREFUL not to scar the VVT seat on the engine) and small hammer to tap on a small retaining "C" clamp. After it popped off, the washer came off easily. Then I hand screwed the remover into the sleeve remembering that counter clock wise (CCW). After is was snug, I used my ratchet to tighten it but was afraid to make it too tight. I backed it off CW, and then tightened it CCW a bit more, then liberally sprayed it with liquid wrench. Waited a few hours, repeated the process CCWing the remover just a bit more. Continued to repeat the process several times that day, and then again the next. The sleeve finally broke free without too much torque and using pliers to grasp the remover's top, I pull the sleeve out. What a great feeling when that happened!

As someone else mentioned, patients. : )

GOOD LUCK.

chizzler

Anyone try Duralast? Just got one from Autozone. Can’t wait to go to dealer.

99rx

iTrader: (6)

Do not go off brand with these. Stick with Dorman (less expensive) or OEM. No substitutions.

ShiftDad72

Thank you for this post and detailed instructions. Motor started to miss one month. Then a month later stutter returned thru acceleration at 65kmh to 70. Traction Control Off light came on, and yellow check engine light. Hobbled home and friend used reader and it showed several misfire codes. Research pointed towards VVT symptoms. Took the chance and found the Dorman parts on Amazon for $77 for the pair delivered. Took 30 minutes to get tools together and clean and take the valve cover off and then locate the old parts. Took another 20 minutes to take the two parts out and to replace them with the new. Reader showed codes gone - and he cleared the history for me. That was a month ago. The car is a daily driver and is running great - dare I say better since the VVT swap.

1999 Lexus es300

vtrman

Just replaced both of these VVT solenoids on my 2001 RX with 300,000 miles. Solved all my driveability problems and eliminated all CELs. I used the Ultra-Power ones from RockAuto because they were cheapest and because I have found that often Ultra-Power are rebranded OEM items.
I don't know if that is the case in this case, so I guess time will tell.

RockAuto offers solenoids for the RX in 11(!) different brands at varying prices. I wonder how many of them are made in the same factory to the same specs.

Margate330

Wish I'd known that before I got mine at the dealer $$$

salimshah

Did you bench test or simply opted for a replacement.

I go the code once and with lots of trouble pulled the valves out and bench tested them and found them to be working. I did mess up in reassembly [flipped the screen] but after putting it back together, the problem never showed up. Granted, it was my labor so I was willing to reuse and see.

Salim