2000 RX300 AWD will not start after long-term storage
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
2000 RX300 AWD will not start after long-term storage
Almost two years ago, my RX began to run rough and the CEL came on. I read code P1325, the dreaded IC #6. After reading the CL DIY, I bought six new NGK IFR6T11 spark plugs and three new BWD E789 ignition coils. I started to tackle the job, but got stuck trying to get the throttle body off. I had the RX parked in my extra garage, and put off the repair. I just tried to complete the repair (yes...two years later). I was able to get all three rear plugs and coils installed. I bolted the throttle body back on, and reinstalled the CC cable assembly and PCV valve hose. I changed the oil, but the other fluids all looked okay. Put in a new battery, K&N air filter, a gas additive and prayed.
Tried starting the RX and it would not start. The starter is turning the engine over, but the engine will not fire off. It is now giving me code P1760. After trying to start, it also gives all six ignition coil codes (P1300-1325), but those codes will clear. I got code P0768 from the history, but it also cleared.
The vehicle had a full tank of gas when the problem happened. Do you think it's the gas causing the start problems? Any suggestions?
Tried starting the RX and it would not start. The starter is turning the engine over, but the engine will not fire off. It is now giving me code P1760. After trying to start, it also gives all six ignition coil codes (P1300-1325), but those codes will clear. I got code P0768 from the history, but it also cleared.
The vehicle had a full tank of gas when the problem happened. Do you think it's the gas causing the start problems? Any suggestions?
Last edited by CaveCreek; 01-25-13 at 02:45 PM.
#3
Moderator
If you still have a nearly full tank, you will need to store about 15gallons of gas.
You can just put in 2gallons of fresh gas once the tank is empty.
Stale gas is only one possibility. Have you tried pumping the gas pedal a few times and holding the pedal 3/4 down and cranking the engine.
Also clear all codes (or disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes) and then try to start. After then try reading the codes.
I have not tried it and I am not sure if is safe to introduce quick start fluid through the air intake. Maybe some one who has had some experience (both positive and negative) can share.
Salim
You can just put in 2gallons of fresh gas once the tank is empty.
Stale gas is only one possibility. Have you tried pumping the gas pedal a few times and holding the pedal 3/4 down and cranking the engine.
Also clear all codes (or disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes) and then try to start. After then try reading the codes.
I have not tried it and I am not sure if is safe to introduce quick start fluid through the air intake. Maybe some one who has had some experience (both positive and negative) can share.
Salim
#4
Moderator
one more ..
You may need couple of long cranks with gas pedal pumps. [make sure your battery is good]
Make sure you give couple of minutes to cool down the starter and the battery, between long cranks.
For all its problems, the carb equipped engines allowed more options to make the engine catch.
Salim
You may need couple of long cranks with gas pedal pumps. [make sure your battery is good]
Make sure you give couple of minutes to cool down the starter and the battery, between long cranks.
For all its problems, the carb equipped engines allowed more options to make the engine catch.
Salim
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Well...epic fail on the attempt to siphon gas from the tank. I believe there is a "ball valve" at the bottom of the fill tube which prevents the rubber tube from submerging in the gasoline.
Besides taking out the rear seat and accessing the fuel tank from the top, does anyone have any ideas on getting past the "ball valve" to do a simple siphon operation?
Besides taking out the rear seat and accessing the fuel tank from the top, does anyone have any ideas on getting past the "ball valve" to do a simple siphon operation?
#6
Lexus Champion
Well...epic fail on the attempt to siphon gas from the tank. I believe there is a "ball valve" at the bottom of the fill tube which prevents the rubber tube from submerging in the gasoline.
Besides taking out the rear seat and accessing the fuel tank from the top, does anyone have any ideas on getting past the "ball valve" to do a simple siphon operation?
Besides taking out the rear seat and accessing the fuel tank from the top, does anyone have any ideas on getting past the "ball valve" to do a simple siphon operation?
(BTW, they put the 30+ gal. back in the tank and drove away with it. Ran beautiful as always)
#7
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Thanks for your experience, code 58. I will start looking at fuel lines.
Does anyone know about hearing the fuel pump when you turn the ignition to ON? Tried starting it again this morning and hear two clicks from the engine compartment when I turn the key to ON.
Also looking for the easiest way to remove fuel from the vehicle since siphoning will not work.
Does anyone know about hearing the fuel pump when you turn the ignition to ON? Tried starting it again this morning and hear two clicks from the engine compartment when I turn the key to ON.
Also looking for the easiest way to remove fuel from the vehicle since siphoning will not work.
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#8
Moderator
Please dont grasp for straws, someone elses problem may not be yours.
You have to systematically confirm and or exclude things one by one.
If you can crank, then at least battery,starter are eliminated.
With WOT (full throttle) smell the exhaust ... to see if unburnt gasoline is making it there. IN long term storage, some time rodents nest in the exhaust blocking it .. so see if the exhaust is free.
To check the delivery of the fuel, disconnect the quick coupler [body to engine] fuel line. See my notes on knock sensor DIY. Exercise due care as fuel can stream out.
Check the presence of spark.
Timing is hard to gauge, but after storage the only thing bad could happen is a broke belt or crank position sensor.
Salim
You have to systematically confirm and or exclude things one by one.
If you can crank, then at least battery,starter are eliminated.
With WOT (full throttle) smell the exhaust ... to see if unburnt gasoline is making it there. IN long term storage, some time rodents nest in the exhaust blocking it .. so see if the exhaust is free.
To check the delivery of the fuel, disconnect the quick coupler [body to engine] fuel line. See my notes on knock sensor DIY. Exercise due care as fuel can stream out.
Check the presence of spark.
Timing is hard to gauge, but after storage the only thing bad could happen is a broke belt or crank position sensor.
Salim
#9
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Salim,
Thanks so much for your time. I removed the front right ignition coil, attached one of the plugs I replaced earlier, and had my wife turn the ignition to START. Starter turned the engine, but I saw no spark. Shouldn't I be getting spark?
I also noticed a slight humming-type noise with the key turned to ON. Is that sound possibly the fuel being fed to the injectors? It seemed to be from the front of the engine block.
I will follow your additional suggestions and also check every ignition fuse and relay next.
Thanks so much for your time. I removed the front right ignition coil, attached one of the plugs I replaced earlier, and had my wife turn the ignition to START. Starter turned the engine, but I saw no spark. Shouldn't I be getting spark?
I also noticed a slight humming-type noise with the key turned to ON. Is that sound possibly the fuel being fed to the injectors? It seemed to be from the front of the engine block.
I will follow your additional suggestions and also check every ignition fuse and relay next.
#10
Moderator
Salim,
Thanks so much for your time. I removed the front right ignition coil, attached one of the plugs I replaced earlier, and had my wife turn the ignition to START. Starter turned the engine, but I saw no spark. Shouldn't I be getting spark?
I also noticed a slight humming-type noise with the key turned to ON. Is that sound possibly the fuel being fed to the injectors? It seemed to be from the front of the engine block.
I will follow your additional suggestions and also check every ignition fuse and relay next.
Thanks so much for your time. I removed the front right ignition coil, attached one of the plugs I replaced earlier, and had my wife turn the ignition to START. Starter turned the engine, but I saw no spark. Shouldn't I be getting spark?
I also noticed a slight humming-type noise with the key turned to ON. Is that sound possibly the fuel being fed to the injectors? It seemed to be from the front of the engine block.
I will follow your additional suggestions and also check every ignition fuse and relay next.
Forget about other things and trace why there is no spark.
Make sure you imobilizer is not acting up. Try another key and remove all magnetic things away (other keys).
See if the timing belt is turning. [Can some one post how to inspect it with minimum tear-up]
Check cam-shaft position sensor. Resistance cold 835-1400ohms and hot 1060-1645ohm
Check the crank-shaft position sensor. Resistance cold 1630-2740ohms and hot 2065-3225ohms)
Salim
#11
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Okay Salim...exhaust is clear, but I can't really smell any gas fumes. All the ignition/starter/ECU fuses are good. I assume I checked for spark correctly by extracting the IC, inserting a spark plug, and watching for spark when the engine start was attempted.
Without a photo, I was unable to find the fuel line quick coupler. I have everything put back together, so if it is under the air filter box or throttle body, then I would have to disassemble those again.
I did read about the engine immobilizer and I did the masterkey/remote key thing (put each in the driver door then the ignition). Got some strange beeps, so I hope that didn't screw anything up. Any other advice to ensure the immobilizer is not the problem? Would that allow the starter to engage, but not provide ignition?
Without a photo, I was unable to find the fuel line quick coupler. I have everything put back together, so if it is under the air filter box or throttle body, then I would have to disassemble those again.
I did read about the engine immobilizer and I did the masterkey/remote key thing (put each in the driver door then the ignition). Got some strange beeps, so I hope that didn't screw anything up. Any other advice to ensure the immobilizer is not the problem? Would that allow the starter to engage, but not provide ignition?
#12
Moderator
Your post #9 states "no spark", so forget about other things.
Auto-security, [imobilizer] kills the ignition, and you can crank all you like.
Follow my previous post.
Beyond that, it gets out of league of a DIYer. If it is imobilizer, you may need to go to Lexus.
Salim
[PS: the quick link disconnect is way below the brake booster (master-cylinder .]
Auto-security, [imobilizer] kills the ignition, and you can crank all you like.
Follow my previous post.
Beyond that, it gets out of league of a DIYer. If it is imobilizer, you may need to go to Lexus.
Salim
[PS: the quick link disconnect is way below the brake booster (master-cylinder .]
Last edited by salimshah; 01-27-13 at 08:23 PM.
#13
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Where is the brake booster?
I checked for spark again. Anyone please correct me if I did this wrong. I removed one of the front ignition coils, inserted a spark plug, and placed the spark plug threads against the engine block. When the engine was turned over, there was no spark at all. Should I buy a spark plug tester or was my method okay?
The engine immobilizer symptoms are identical to what I have -- engine turns over but will not start. However, when I placed the master key in the ignition, the security system light went out and stayed out. I did the same check with the other master key and the sub key. None of the keys would start the car, but they all made the security light go out.
Unless I am reading wrong, this means the immobilizer is not the problem and the ECU is receiving a valid transponder code. Looking for additional ideas to troubleshoot for no spark -- 2000 RX300. I will attempt to check the timing belt, cam shaft and crank shaft position sensors tomorrow.
I checked for spark again. Anyone please correct me if I did this wrong. I removed one of the front ignition coils, inserted a spark plug, and placed the spark plug threads against the engine block. When the engine was turned over, there was no spark at all. Should I buy a spark plug tester or was my method okay?
The engine immobilizer symptoms are identical to what I have -- engine turns over but will not start. However, when I placed the master key in the ignition, the security system light went out and stayed out. I did the same check with the other master key and the sub key. None of the keys would start the car, but they all made the security light go out.
Unless I am reading wrong, this means the immobilizer is not the problem and the ECU is receiving a valid transponder code. Looking for additional ideas to troubleshoot for no spark -- 2000 RX300. I will attempt to check the timing belt, cam shaft and crank shaft position sensors tomorrow.
Last edited by CaveCreek; 01-27-13 at 07:33 PM.
#14
Moderator
Ref to how to trace ignition ... [keep in mind there are two sources of ignition kill
1. Imobilizer
2. Ignition switch off.
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ignit...l_theory_1.php
Once again stop chasing other things like fuel till you get a spark going.
Salim
1. Imobilizer
2. Ignition switch off.
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ignit...l_theory_1.php
Once again stop chasing other things like fuel till you get a spark going.
Salim
#15
Lexus Champion
I checked for spark again. Anyone please correct me if I did this wrong. I removed one of the front ignition coils, inserted a spark plug, and placed the spark plug threads against the engine block. When the engine was turned over, there was no spark at all. Should I buy a spark plug tester or was my method okay?
Last edited by code58; 01-28-13 at 12:03 AM.