Car Turns over but won't start...
#1
Driver
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So I go out to go to work this morning, and my 2000 RX won't start. I did get a CEL P1150 on the way home last night, but as I have gotten this one before and the car was running just fine, I was putting it off until this afternoon.
If I give the RX a little gas it starts up, but won't stay running.
Any thoughts? I am going to see if my local parts store guy will come out and read my CELs for me now... I am sure that more have popped up.
If I give the RX a little gas it starts up, but won't stay running.
Any thoughts? I am going to see if my local parts store guy will come out and read my CELs for me now... I am sure that more have popped up.
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#2
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What happens when you hold the throttle 1/4 or so?
What the above test does is introduce more gas at idle and if the RX stays running, then IACV is the likely culprit.
There is a IACV cleaning DIY.
Salim
What the above test does is introduce more gas at idle and if the RX stays running, then IACV is the likely culprit.
There is a IACV cleaning DIY.
Salim
#3
Driver
Thread Starter
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Ok, gonna try the IACV cleaning as detailed by tcheung 87 ... walked the couple of miles there and back to the Federated Auto Parts store to get a can of Carb and Choke cleaner... Fingers Crossed!!
#4
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You need to approach it scientifically/logically.
Dont jump to IACV fix without confirming. See my post.
Random efforts, usually complicate the logical approach. You might add to the problems.
Salim
#5
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Thanks Salim,
I had google searched the symptoms and found : https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...y-running.html
These were my symptoms.
I followed the IACV Cleaning DIY and I am starting and idling well again.
The "Fingers Crossed" is more just the feeling I get whenever I attempt a fix... it's just that I have never been an auto mechanic, but I have been a motorcycle mechanic. Cars were always too damn complicated. Now that I have one that is too damn expensive to pay to have fixed, I am working on it myself. Truly, there is nothing that I shouldn't be able to do myself, and I always try to find the proper solution to my symptoms before attempting a fix. I am not a fan of shotgun fixing (throwing stuff at it until something fixes it). I can't afford that either! lol
I have had tremendous success with the help of Club Lexus, and mention that to everyone I talk to about my car and the work I do on it.
All of you folks here at Club Lexus have my deepest gratitude and respect.
I had google searched the symptoms and found : https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...y-running.html
These were my symptoms.
I followed the IACV Cleaning DIY and I am starting and idling well again.
The "Fingers Crossed" is more just the feeling I get whenever I attempt a fix... it's just that I have never been an auto mechanic, but I have been a motorcycle mechanic. Cars were always too damn complicated. Now that I have one that is too damn expensive to pay to have fixed, I am working on it myself. Truly, there is nothing that I shouldn't be able to do myself, and I always try to find the proper solution to my symptoms before attempting a fix. I am not a fan of shotgun fixing (throwing stuff at it until something fixes it). I can't afford that either! lol
I have had tremendous success with the help of Club Lexus, and mention that to everyone I talk to about my car and the work I do on it.
All of you folks here at Club Lexus have my deepest gratitude and respect.
#6
Driver
Thread Starter
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And yes, when I gave the throttle about a 1/4 push it would start up but then die when I took my foot off the gas, just as you had suggested. There was a lot of grunge in the throttle bodies and I took some extra time cleaning the crap out of them.
Does anyone know WHY the F- Lexus decided to use accordion style intake rubbers? seems to me this would cause a LOT of turbulence in the air flow right before entering the throttle bodies. It seems to me that a smooth flow would allow for better induction of air resulting in better power and economy.
Does anyone know WHY the F- Lexus decided to use accordion style intake rubbers? seems to me this would cause a LOT of turbulence in the air flow right before entering the throttle bodies. It seems to me that a smooth flow would allow for better induction of air resulting in better power and economy.
#7
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My apologies. On the net, at times it is hard to stay in step between posts. Apparently you had tested and confirmed the problem,
The reason for the accordion style bellows is to allow the movement between the engine and the fixed body.
Other than fuel economy, the sound from the intake is also very important factor. The whole thing is acoustically tuned too.
Salim
The reason for the accordion style bellows is to allow the movement between the engine and the fixed body.
Other than fuel economy, the sound from the intake is also very important factor. The whole thing is acoustically tuned too.
Salim
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#8
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Shoot Salim, you don't have anything for which to apologize! lol You're as kind and helpful as anyone could ask for. I always appreciate your input.
As for the the movement between the engine and the airbox... I totally see your point! thanks!
Anthony
As for the the movement between the engine and the airbox... I totally see your point! thanks!
Anthony
#9
Instructor
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I have a similar problem and as a regular measure I always clean the throttle body at the same shop I've going to for the last three years.
this time is different. however. I just cleaned the throttle body only about 3 months ago but the same symptom returned: car turns over and cranks just fine but it does not start. If I give it gigantic amount of gas and keep my foot on the gas for a 30 seconds it will stay on. otherwise it dies. something else interesting. it only does this after the car has ran for a very short time, say 5 minutes of local "cold" driving. after I turn off the car and try to start say after 5 mins, this thing happens.
My question:
Is it still the Idle control valve? If not what could this be?
this time is different. however. I just cleaned the throttle body only about 3 months ago but the same symptom returned: car turns over and cranks just fine but it does not start. If I give it gigantic amount of gas and keep my foot on the gas for a 30 seconds it will stay on. otherwise it dies. something else interesting. it only does this after the car has ran for a very short time, say 5 minutes of local "cold" driving. after I turn off the car and try to start say after 5 mins, this thing happens.
My question:
Is it still the Idle control valve? If not what could this be?
#10
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TB is different from IACV.
With IACV, you just have to keep the throttle open a bit and the engine would die only if the pressure is removed from the gas pedal.
Salim
With IACV, you just have to keep the throttle open a bit and the engine would die only if the pressure is removed from the gas pedal.
Salim
#12
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Please look at the IACV DIY thread. As long as the IACV is cleaned up we are talking about the same thing. Other than cleaning, there are times when the IACV goes bad or there is wiring issue. ECU controls the IACV, which then adjusts the extra air and fuel.
If you have idlling issues you have to check vacuum too.
Salim
If you have idlling issues you have to check vacuum too.
Salim
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