Rear Hatch Door Replace - How?
#1
Driver School Candidate
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So my daughter backed into something with her RX300 and bottom line is the hatch door needs to be replaced. Turns out a local place has one same year and color in good shape for short money.
Assuming I can get the current hatch door open (it's stuck now), how difficult do you think it'll be to remove and replace? Has anyone ever done this, or is this something better left to the pro's?
Joe
Assuming I can get the current hatch door open (it's stuck now), how difficult do you think it'll be to remove and replace? Has anyone ever done this, or is this something better left to the pro's?
Joe
#2
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Fortunately, have never needed to do that.
But three things I would highly suggest:
1) Make sure that the key cylinder is swapped with the one you currently have, so your key can be used (if need be).
2) Take this opportunity to lubricate the <bleep> out of the hatch handle spring
3) Replace the license plate bulbs, even if they are fine
I have read threads on there expressing EXTREME CAUTION when working with the door lifter struts, so if you decide to do this yourself, just be very careful!
But three things I would highly suggest:
1) Make sure that the key cylinder is swapped with the one you currently have, so your key can be used (if need be).
2) Take this opportunity to lubricate the <bleep> out of the hatch handle spring
3) Replace the license plate bulbs, even if they are fine
I have read threads on there expressing EXTREME CAUTION when working with the door lifter struts, so if you decide to do this yourself, just be very careful!
#3
Driver School Candidate
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Fortunately, have never needed to do that.
But three things I would highly suggest:
1) Make sure that the key cylinder is swapped with the one you currently have, so your key can be used (if need be).
2) Take this opportunity to lubricate the <bleep> out of the hatch handle spring
3) Replace the license plate bulbs, even if they are fine
I have read threads on there expressing EXTREME CAUTION when working with the door lifter struts, so if you decide to do this yourself, just be very careful!
But three things I would highly suggest:
1) Make sure that the key cylinder is swapped with the one you currently have, so your key can be used (if need be).
2) Take this opportunity to lubricate the <bleep> out of the hatch handle spring
3) Replace the license plate bulbs, even if they are fine
I have read threads on there expressing EXTREME CAUTION when working with the door lifter struts, so if you decide to do this yourself, just be very careful!
A friend of a friend owns a body shop and I can bring it to them, but it'll still cost and take time, neither of which I'm overly concerned with, but if I can do it myself in a reasonable amount of time I'd like to go that route.
I think if I can get to the electrical harnesses and get those disconnected/reconnected I'll be in good shape. Just not sure if they leave a bit of play in the hinges, or if it's pretty tight. If it's tight then I expect I'll be easier because not a whole lot can be out of alignment, but we'll see!
#4
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Well it is not a one person job .. three are better, two to hold and the third to bolt it in.
Problem #1: How to release the crumpled rear hatch. You may have to bend metal back or some how release the catch with things under tension.
Problem #2: How to manipulate/handle the weight and size of the door and hold it in position while you undo the current and attach the new.
Do able, but plan ahead.
Salim
Problem #1: How to release the crumpled rear hatch. You may have to bend metal back or some how release the catch with things under tension.
Problem #2: How to manipulate/handle the weight and size of the door and hold it in position while you undo the current and attach the new.
Do able, but plan ahead.
Salim
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
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Well it is not a one person job .. three are better, two to hold and the third to bolt it in.
Problem #1: How to release the crumpled rear hatch. You may have to bend metal back or some how release the catch with things under tension.
Problem #2: How to manipulate/handle the weight and size of the door and hold it in position while you undo the current and attach the new.
Do able, but plan ahead.
Salim
Problem #1: How to release the crumpled rear hatch. You may have to bend metal back or some how release the catch with things under tension.
Problem #2: How to manipulate/handle the weight and size of the door and hold it in position while you undo the current and attach the new.
Do able, but plan ahead.
Salim
Yeah, I was thinking about the manpower needed for this and contacted the bodyshop. I'm gonna bring it in week after next when they have time. I got the replacement part at a good price, might as well have it installed correctly. Still not happy about having to go through this, but what are you gonna do.
#6
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As you transfer the lock mechanism, please dont throw away the lock actuator. I would highly recommend that you offer it through our Pay it forward thread.
Salim
Salim
#7
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Ok, not sure what the Pay it forward thread is, but I'll check it out. I was hoping to take off whatever could be of use down the road.
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#8
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Salim
Last edited by salimshah; 06-25-13 at 10:20 PM.
#9
Lexus Test Driver
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I haven't replaced the whole hatch door, but I remember replacing the struts. It's amazing how much weight those support. Once the hatch is opened up (probably the hardest part...), prop up the hatch ALL the way with a 2x4 or something and remove the struts. Hopefully, they are not bent. You'll want to have some buddies there holding up the hatch as you unbolt it from the hinges. I could not believe how heavy it was while it was still attached but without the struts. That's the only advice I can offer based on my limited experience. Good luck, and keep us posted!
#10
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Had the hatch replaced last week, body shop guys that are friends of a friend did it for $100.00!
They said the wiring on the replacement was fried, so they took from the original, which was a bit more work than just unbolting and bolting. They switched out the key lock too. All in all the whole thing cost $475 for parts and labor and it looks better than before the accident happened.
I consider myself very fortunate that things worked out the way they did, now if we can just go a while without any accidents I'll be very happy!
They said the wiring on the replacement was fried, so they took from the original, which was a bit more work than just unbolting and bolting. They switched out the key lock too. All in all the whole thing cost $475 for parts and labor and it looks better than before the accident happened.
I consider myself very fortunate that things worked out the way they did, now if we can just go a while without any accidents I'll be very happy!
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