Rough Idle/shaking, Blinking Cil, Replaced Ocv 4 Mo Ago
#16
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Post #13 in the mega thread tells you how to start counting.
Passenger side is the front of the engine.
Lets eliminate the obvious and get the engine running right.
Mega thread also talks about starting problems.
Salim
Passenger side is the front of the engine.
Lets eliminate the obvious and get the engine running right.
Mega thread also talks about starting problems.
Salim
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2 is front left, 4 front middle, 6 front right closer to the battery?
1 is back left, 3 back middle, 5 back right?
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Thanks for the continued replies Salim. Unfortunately, I must be having a brain problem as usual. I read post 13 over and over again since you first suggested it. To me it looks like it's just describing 4 ways to determine which set are at the front of the car and at the back. I don't see where it describes where to start counting. It doesn't really matter since I'm going to replace them all anyway, but maybe you could spell it out here for dolts like me?
2 is front left, 4 front middle, 6 front right closer to the battery?
1 is back left, 3 back middle, 5 back right?
2 is front left, 4 front middle, 6 front right closer to the battery?
1 is back left, 3 back middle, 5 back right?
When we talk about left or right of engine ,, ,it is not the left or right of the person standing in the front of the vehicle.
The other complexity is that the RX has transverse mounted engine and the front of the engine is really the side closest to the passenger side front wheel.
---- fire wall
Pass 1 3 5
Wheel 2 4 6 Battery.
---- radiator
Salim
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It is important that you get the numbering right as the CEL gives you the number and you should be able to put your finger on it.
When we talk about left or right of engine ,, ,it is not the left or right of the person standing in the front of the vehicle.
The other complexity is that the RX has transverse mounted engine and the front of the engine is really the side closest to the passenger side front wheel.
---- fire wall
Pass 1 3 5
Wheel 2 4 6 Battery.
---- radiator
Salim
When we talk about left or right of engine ,, ,it is not the left or right of the person standing in the front of the vehicle.
The other complexity is that the RX has transverse mounted engine and the front of the engine is really the side closest to the passenger side front wheel.
---- fire wall
Pass 1 3 5
Wheel 2 4 6 Battery.
---- radiator
Salim
#20
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Yes, when you look into the engine bay the first 3 coils you see are 2, 4, and 6 in that order from the passenger side of the vehicle
BUT, behind that there are more coils on the other bank. These coils are not visible unless you peak around the PCV valve, intake, and throttle body. They go 1, 3, and 5.
Borrowed Lexmex's picture from here :https://www.clublexus.com/forums/2416994-post4.html, and illustrated which coils are which.
BUT, behind that there are more coils on the other bank. These coils are not visible unless you peak around the PCV valve, intake, and throttle body. They go 1, 3, and 5.
Borrowed Lexmex's picture from here :https://www.clublexus.com/forums/2416994-post4.html, and illustrated which coils are which.
Last edited by hypervish; 10-03-13 at 05:29 AM.
#21
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Man, I still dont get it. problem is that i'm new to this stuff and dont know where things are like firewall, etc. Standing at the front of the car, looking into the engine I see three coils/plugs. starting on the left, is it 2,4,6? why am i so confused. I'm starting to feel like I won't be able to get this done.
Hopefully the picture posted by Hyper will be more helpful than the drawing I made with characters.
firewall: Barrier to slow down gasses, heat and fire from one section to the other. IN vehicles this also provides structural integrity and prevents intrusion into the cabin. It is the metal wall between the engine and cabin.
Concern:Please read the spark plug DIY It is hard to gauge the skill level when we are talking on the internet. No offense intended but working with 1,3&5 will require tools, skill and dexterity. Please make sure you dont end up stranded in the middle of the task. A good DIYer should always know their limit and always weigh the risks-vs-gains.
[ex: I refuse to work on suspension springs]
Salim
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Ok, I've decided to do the front 3 plugs and coils myself. I couldn't seem to find the DIY for the coils. Are they simply disconnect connect?
I'm going to go to a shop for the other 3.
I'm going to go to a shop for the other 3.
#23
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Price it out , I doubt if you will get any price break, The labor is rounded up 1/2hr based.
Yes unplug and reconnect and a bolt hold-down.
Also seriously think about replacing the spark plugs. They should be replaced 110k miles with OEM.
Salim
Yes unplug and reconnect and a bolt hold-down.
Also seriously think about replacing the spark plugs. They should be replaced 110k miles with OEM.
Salim
#24
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Don't take this the wrong way but your second post asking about plug wires was a good indication that you either need to get professional help or get a shop manual. At the minimum, you may want to read up on some basic principles of modern engine designs.
Bosch Plug wires -
Bosch Plug wires -
#25
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Bosh is credited for lots of development and make some great products. But I have success with OE products in RX. If you find a substantial difference in price or you are in pinch only then reach for Bosh parts for toyota/Lexus.
Salim
Salim
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Point was not the brand. Plug wires and coil-on-plug generally don't go together....
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One of the problems with data access on internet is persistent information good/bad. Sometime later someone would reads your post and may think that here is a recommendation. It was my intent to leave a post for future readers and not to nit pic
Salim
Salim
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Yes, worked that out once I got in there. First time doing plugs without wire. Doing plugs isn't rocket science, as long as you can get to them. "There's where the plug is, seems to be no wires, but there's a coil, okey dokey." That's what return policies are for.
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I have some continuing issues. Should I start a new thread?
So after getting all the plugs and coils changed (I did the front 3 and had a shop literally spend 3 hours doing the back 3 at a cost of $240. They said it would have been $260 had they done all 6. Brought my own parts.) it now runs nearly as it did before all this mess.
1. There is a VERY slight hesitation upon acceleration. Had a very similar behavior when the OCV started going bad.
2. Once or twice every few days or so I get nothing from the engine when turning the key. No attempt to crank. Once every few times that happens, I get a micro crank. Waiting with key in any position for up to a minute always brings on a strong normal start.
3. Today when I filled up with gas (plus high mileage fuel injector cleaner) I was very low (got 15.9 gal in there). Upon starting the car, the gas gauge stayed below E. I drove an exit down the freeway and back, and it was then fine.
4. My avg MPG is about 16.8. Before all these things started happening I was about 17.8-18.3
Something above related?
#30
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Thank you for that Salim.
I have some continuing issues. Should I start a new thread?
So after getting all the plugs and coils changed (I did the front 3 and had a shop literally spend 3 hours doing the back 3 at a cost of $240. They said it would have been $260 had they done all 6. Brought my own parts.) it now runs nearly as it did before all this mess.
1. There is a VERY slight hesitation upon acceleration. Had a very similar behavior when the OCV started going bad.
2. Once or twice every few days or so I get nothing from the engine when turning the key. No attempt to crank. Once every few times that happens, I get a micro crank. Waiting with key in any position for up to a minute always brings on a strong normal start.
3. Today when I filled up with gas (plus high mileage fuel injector cleaner) I was very low (got 15.9 gal in there). Upon starting the car, the gas gauge stayed below E. I drove an exit down the freeway and back, and it was then fine.
4. My avg MPG is about 16.8. Before all these things started happening I was about 17.8-18.3
Something above related?
I have some continuing issues. Should I start a new thread?
So after getting all the plugs and coils changed (I did the front 3 and had a shop literally spend 3 hours doing the back 3 at a cost of $240. They said it would have been $260 had they done all 6. Brought my own parts.) it now runs nearly as it did before all this mess.
1. There is a VERY slight hesitation upon acceleration. Had a very similar behavior when the OCV started going bad.
2. Once or twice every few days or so I get nothing from the engine when turning the key. No attempt to crank. Once every few times that happens, I get a micro crank. Waiting with key in any position for up to a minute always brings on a strong normal start.
3. Today when I filled up with gas (plus high mileage fuel injector cleaner) I was very low (got 15.9 gal in there). Upon starting the car, the gas gauge stayed below E. I drove an exit down the freeway and back, and it was then fine.
4. My avg MPG is about 16.8. Before all these things started happening I was about 17.8-18.3
Something above related?
item #2. Please look through Having Problems start here Mega thread (sticky).
item #3. Ignore till it comes back . Also try to fill when the tank is 1/3 -1/4 full.
item #4. Clean MAF. Replace air-filter (30-40k interval). Reset ECU
Salim