Help - Jus Bought, Now Totalled?
#16
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The best news is that ending second best with a semi is that you're OK. Having been the victim of a jack (another name for a donkey) who came tearing out of a parking lot without checking for oncoming cars, I have a few things to add from experience.
First, take the money. With a sales receipt, you should be able to convince the insurance adjuster that they reimburse you for the full amount. Take the vehicle back for parts salvage. You'll make more money back in shipping parts to forum members then they deduct in salvage.
Second, if you decide you really don't want to part it out, you need to check two important areas after getting the hood open:
Area 1: With the hood open, stand at the center line of the RX, take three big steps back and compare the rails (the section that the fenders mount to) and check if they are parallel. With a semi truck's mass, it is likely the driver side is now bent towards the engine.
Area 2: You need to get under the RX for this one. From the driver's side, look up at the firewall. If it seems like it is pushed back or bowed forward, you're done.
For the first area, that means your frame is bent, and getting a front end alignment is next to impossible. When I went to local collision shops to try to get my ES repaired, most flat out refused to take it in after looking at it. For the second, well, it's going to cost more than what you paid for it, end of story. As it was explained to me by an insurance adjustor: The cost to repair it has just shot up by $5-7k because the entire dash, engine and transmission has to come out and there is no guarantee that it can still be repaired after that is done.
In my case, I did not have this latter issue, however, in your pictures, it appears the semi connected further back with your RX, making this the more important determinant in whether to keep it or not. GL!
First, take the money. With a sales receipt, you should be able to convince the insurance adjuster that they reimburse you for the full amount. Take the vehicle back for parts salvage. You'll make more money back in shipping parts to forum members then they deduct in salvage.
Second, if you decide you really don't want to part it out, you need to check two important areas after getting the hood open:
Area 1: With the hood open, stand at the center line of the RX, take three big steps back and compare the rails (the section that the fenders mount to) and check if they are parallel. With a semi truck's mass, it is likely the driver side is now bent towards the engine.
Area 2: You need to get under the RX for this one. From the driver's side, look up at the firewall. If it seems like it is pushed back or bowed forward, you're done.
For the first area, that means your frame is bent, and getting a front end alignment is next to impossible. When I went to local collision shops to try to get my ES repaired, most flat out refused to take it in after looking at it. For the second, well, it's going to cost more than what you paid for it, end of story. As it was explained to me by an insurance adjustor: The cost to repair it has just shot up by $5-7k because the entire dash, engine and transmission has to come out and there is no guarantee that it can still be repaired after that is done.
In my case, I did not have this latter issue, however, in your pictures, it appears the semi connected further back with your RX, making this the more important determinant in whether to keep it or not. GL!
#19
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Thanks again for all the replies -
I decided to get after it! Tore it down yesterday...
You can see on the second pic how bent the strut is - That took a lot of the impact
Third pic shows tie rod end after I cut it off - it was bent at 90 degrees
Half shaft is good
Break caliper is good
Bearing Assy. is good
Everything else must go!
Going to get parts this week and get it drive-able - then off to the frame shop.
I decided to get after it! Tore it down yesterday...
You can see on the second pic how bent the strut is - That took a lot of the impact
Third pic shows tie rod end after I cut it off - it was bent at 90 degrees
Half shaft is good
Break caliper is good
Bearing Assy. is good
Everything else must go!
Going to get parts this week and get it drive-able - then off to the frame shop.
Last edited by dtomala; 06-30-14 at 06:52 AM.
#20
Moderator
Just a quick note ...
You should prevent lateral (pulling out) force on the drive-shaft. The way the weight and the bungee cords are lifting, you may stretch out the CV joint or pull the whole assembly out of the transmission.
The other sensitive items are the speed sensor cord and brake hose.
Salim
You should prevent lateral (pulling out) force on the drive-shaft. The way the weight and the bungee cords are lifting, you may stretch out the CV joint or pull the whole assembly out of the transmission.
The other sensitive items are the speed sensor cord and brake hose.
Salim
#21
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Is it the photo, or is the unibody/inner fender area bent?
#22
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i have addressed the brake line and half shaft - thanks..
Yes, the inner fender is bent in pretty good. Pushed in about 2 inches.
Just ordered suspension replacement parts
Got a hood and door yesterday from local junkyard - Same year and color!
Need to find a fender
Yes, the inner fender is bent in pretty good. Pushed in about 2 inches.
Just ordered suspension replacement parts
Got a hood and door yesterday from local junkyard - Same year and color!
Need to find a fender
#23
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So do you think the top anchor point for your strut is still at the original location? I hope that the sheet metal is not warped as well.
Salim
Salim
#24
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I doubt it - I will replace the suspension components that are damaged, then take it to the frame shop - they should be able to pull everything back in spec, hopefully... Then I need an alignment.
#25
Moderator
I hope that inner fender wing hasn't been stressed too far, I'd hate for them to be pulling it straight, and have the whole thing crack, or split open...
#27
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Please do keep us updated. Looking forward to seeing how this turns out...
#28
Buy the car back and sell the parts on here! I need the IACV, a new drivers seat, the air filter (if clean), new side reflectors, those clean headlights and I'll buy 2/4 rims!!!
Glad you're ok!
Glad you're ok!
#29
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Just to let ya know I got her back together in mid August and we have been runnin her hard ever since! Was really an easy car to work on as far as the suspension and body / door panels are concerned.
I was able to find all body panels at junkyards and all were a pretty close color match and very resonable price.
All Suspension parts were replaced with new.
Frame shop was able to pull everything back to spec.
New windshield installed.
Just a couple CEL's that came up for O2 Sensor that I was able to clear and have not returned.
and there is now a mild exhaust leak that I have to find.
Anyways, all is well and the RX is back on the road again.
All in all it worked out really well - Thanks for all your input.
Will try to get some pics up at some point
Just a side note Last week when my wife ran over some junk on the highway and ripped the fuel tank open like a sardine can - Tank now replaced and all's well! (Mechanic replaced w/ used tank.)
I was able to find all body panels at junkyards and all were a pretty close color match and very resonable price.
All Suspension parts were replaced with new.
Frame shop was able to pull everything back to spec.
New windshield installed.
Just a couple CEL's that came up for O2 Sensor that I was able to clear and have not returned.
and there is now a mild exhaust leak that I have to find.
Anyways, all is well and the RX is back on the road again.
All in all it worked out really well - Thanks for all your input.
Will try to get some pics up at some point
Just a side note Last week when my wife ran over some junk on the highway and ripped the fuel tank open like a sardine can - Tank now replaced and all's well! (Mechanic replaced w/ used tank.)
#30
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Glad to hear you were able to resurrect it. Bummer about the fuel tank, fortunately, nothing went BOOM!
The exhaust leak may be that flex coupling that comes off the exhaust manifold, under the oil pan. They will break down and leak with time.
The exhaust leak may be that flex coupling that comes off the exhaust manifold, under the oil pan. They will break down and leak with time.
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