2000 RX300 timing belt broke (Non-interference)
#16
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My suggestion would be, if you cant trace a record for TB work being done, then assume it was not done.
Salim
Salim
#17
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[QUOTE=hypervish;8876541]Why not just change the timing belt along with associated components and be done with it?[/QUOTE
because hyper; we dont have the facilities or the finances to do major repairs. Since my father is the one that is the holder of the funds for any replacement vehicle. We have a very limited budget on which to go by. So with that in mind; any dealer we consider getting one from would have to somehow include the necessary repair items be done and include anything that could be a potential issue either immediately or shortly down the road. The one i went to have inspected today does need some things done to it. It appears it needs the tb replaced as thats original as well as the spark plugs and wires. Also; it appeared from the inspection that there was some wetness near the oil filter and oil drain plug. They also recommended new motor mounts, and one of the cv axle joints is starting to leak at the clamp; as well as some other minor thiings like power antenna needs replacement (either the mast or the motor itself needs replacement). The estimate from the inspection shop totaled 1,934 as they also put in how much it would be to switch back to o.e. struts and strut assemblies.
because hyper; we dont have the facilities or the finances to do major repairs. Since my father is the one that is the holder of the funds for any replacement vehicle. We have a very limited budget on which to go by. So with that in mind; any dealer we consider getting one from would have to somehow include the necessary repair items be done and include anything that could be a potential issue either immediately or shortly down the road. The one i went to have inspected today does need some things done to it. It appears it needs the tb replaced as thats original as well as the spark plugs and wires. Also; it appeared from the inspection that there was some wetness near the oil filter and oil drain plug. They also recommended new motor mounts, and one of the cv axle joints is starting to leak at the clamp; as well as some other minor thiings like power antenna needs replacement (either the mast or the motor itself needs replacement). The estimate from the inspection shop totaled 1,934 as they also put in how much it would be to switch back to o.e. struts and strut assemblies.
Last edited by matts6887; 01-20-15 at 06:26 PM. Reason: adding info.
#18
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Like i mentioned salim; it appeared to the tech at the shop that the tb was original so that obviously would have to be addressed because as also mentioned before; the last thing i need is to be stuck somewhere waiting to be towed.
#19
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[QUOTE=matts6887;8877276]
Maybe you should think about another vehicle besides a Lexus, one that is cheaper to maintain and operate. I'm sure you will find something that strikes your fancy.
Why not just change the timing belt along with associated components and be done with it?[/QUOTE
because hyper; we dont have the facilities or the finances to do major repairs. Since my father is the one that is the holder of the funds for any replacement vehicle. We have a very limited budget on which to go by. So with that in mind; any dealer we consider getting one from would have to somehow include the necessary repair items be done and include anything that could be a potential issue either immediately or shortly down the road. The one i went to have inspected today does need some things done to it. It appears it needs the tb replaced as thats original as well as the spark plugs and wires. Also; it appeared from the inspection that there was some wetness near the oil filter and oil drain plug. They also recommended new motor mounts, and one of the cv axle joints is starting to leak at the clamp; as well as some other minor thiings like power antenna needs replacement (either the mast or the motor itself needs replacement). The estimate from the inspection shop totaled 1,934 as they also put in how much it would be to switch back to o.e. struts and strut assemblies.
because hyper; we dont have the facilities or the finances to do major repairs. Since my father is the one that is the holder of the funds for any replacement vehicle. We have a very limited budget on which to go by. So with that in mind; any dealer we consider getting one from would have to somehow include the necessary repair items be done and include anything that could be a potential issue either immediately or shortly down the road. The one i went to have inspected today does need some things done to it. It appears it needs the tb replaced as thats original as well as the spark plugs and wires. Also; it appeared from the inspection that there was some wetness near the oil filter and oil drain plug. They also recommended new motor mounts, and one of the cv axle joints is starting to leak at the clamp; as well as some other minor thiings like power antenna needs replacement (either the mast or the motor itself needs replacement). The estimate from the inspection shop totaled 1,934 as they also put in how much it would be to switch back to o.e. struts and strut assemblies.
#20
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This is not a vehicle to buy if you can't afford repairs and maintenance. Old luxury vehicles can be costly. I always advice against someone buying the older ones unless you can afford to have them worked on or better yet, fix them yourself.
#21
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Bob; I beg to differ on this. Not because i dont like advice; but because I dont and wont always necessairily let the negative stuff persuade me to look elsewhere. We have already decided to go ahead and make the deal bearing in mind that the positives outweigh the negatives at this point. And as far as the stuff that needs to be taken care of promptly; well we have already decided to get those things done immediately that should be done such as the tb and plugs and wires; and put off the things that dont need immediate attention until possibly the next servicing. And again; keep in mind we DO NOT have the tools or facilities to do any work ourselves; therefore; those items must be delegated to a service facility. One that we have already had some vehicle inspections done through and one that will give us the best prices on parts etc.
#22
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[QUOTE=hypervish;8877293]My answer to this is NO. Ive already researched my possibilities and considered what needs to be considered and this is what fits the bill so to speak. I am sorry but i simply wont let ones opinion de persuade me from getting the vehicle we are looking it. It just wont happen.
#23
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Bob; I beg to differ on this. Not because i dont like advice; but because I dont and wont always necessairily let the negative stuff persuade me to look elsewhere. We have already decided to go ahead and make the deal bearing in mind that the positives outweigh the negatives at this point. And as far as the stuff that needs to be taken care of promptly; well we have already decided to get those things done immediately that should be done such as the tb and plugs and wires; and put off the things that dont need immediate attention until possibly the next servicing. And again; keep in mind we DO NOT have the tools or facilities to do any work ourselves; therefore; those items must be delegated to a service facility. One that we have already had some vehicle inspections done through and one that will give us the best prices on parts etc.
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#24
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I was offering you an educated perspective to consider based upon your previous statements concerning being able to afford maintenance and repairs on this older luxury type vehicle. It does not matter to me what you buy. I was trying to prepare you for possible high costs at any time. It's just a higher probability when owning an older RX... But you already have your mind closed so good luck to you! ![Egads!](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/pat.gif)
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#25
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Hi Salim & Lexman, I just repalced the cam seals on the rear and the front, but since the front cam was not bolted correctly in the groove, the engine did not start as the cams were off the mark, so i removed the belt and the tensioner and moved all the 3 gears back to the timing mark, but after doing all this the engine turns but will not start. I connected the OBD reader and it gives message ECU#1-Engine Error code 0x10. Please help. What are my options now.
#26
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The cam gear would not seat properly if you were off. Any way now that the things are put back, did you turn the main 4 or more even turns and confirm the cams and main pulley timing marks align.
I will try to dig for the Engine code in the mean time. CAnt find out the code 0x10
Salim
I will try to dig for the Engine code in the mean time. CAnt find out the code 0x10
Salim
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Hello Salim, I did the following just now, took the battery connection off and removed the EF1 and the ECU fuse, but still the OBD reader shows ECU#1-Engine Control Unit 0x10.
I looked at the rear cam gear and i am sure the gear is off by 2 teeth from the timing mark. I will remove the tensioner and then revert the rear cam back to the timing mark and place the built again, and then do the 2 revolutions to check if all the 3 gears are on the timing mark.
The rear cam gear is PIA, i was wondering if the Engineer who designed this engine did ever think whether it will be convenient for any mechanics to work on the rear side of the engine,
Since i have read in previous posts this is a non-interference engine, does it matter if i turn the rear cam gear 360 degrees and bring it back to the timing mark again without the belt initially ? what will be the implications if i turn the rear cam gear 360 degrees, and can i do it for the front too ? and then put in the built over all the 3 gears and then turn 2 revolutions.
Thanks Salim for your time and the excellent advice.
I looked at the rear cam gear and i am sure the gear is off by 2 teeth from the timing mark. I will remove the tensioner and then revert the rear cam back to the timing mark and place the built again, and then do the 2 revolutions to check if all the 3 gears are on the timing mark.
The rear cam gear is PIA, i was wondering if the Engineer who designed this engine did ever think whether it will be convenient for any mechanics to work on the rear side of the engine,
Since i have read in previous posts this is a non-interference engine, does it matter if i turn the rear cam gear 360 degrees and bring it back to the timing mark again without the belt initially ? what will be the implications if i turn the rear cam gear 360 degrees, and can i do it for the front too ? and then put in the built over all the 3 gears and then turn 2 revolutions.
Thanks Salim for your time and the excellent advice.
Last edited by mathewd23; 01-21-15 at 06:56 PM.
#28
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Key for timing belt change is NOT turn the crank shaft after you take the belt off. Being 4 stroke engine the zero mark for #1 TDC compression stroke comes after 2nd turn. The Cam gears on the other hand have no problem, so they can be spun as many turns but as long as you match the mark you will be good.
Q: Does your timing belt have marks on it to help you install. OEM and aftermarket by Mostobochi have timing marks. Just make sure you keep the arrow pointing to the passenger wheel. If not please return the belt and get the right one. Another member had to return his he bought from another manufacturer.
Start at the bottom pulley, matching marks and then thread it around to the left cam (near the radiator. Gently turn the pulley clockwise to create slack if needed Just match the mark on the belt with the mark on the pulley. Use a wrench on the cam pulley cckw to pull the belt to take up any slack and the mark on the engine block will automatically match. Put a zip tie to hold the belt.. (it is ok to tun the cam clock-wise or anti clockwise few degrees).
Now come over to the right pulley (near the fire-wall). Turn the pulley clockwise to create slack if needed.Once again match the mark on the belt to the pulley. Use a wrench to gently remove any slck by turning ccw. Mark on the engine block will automatically match. Put a zip tie.
This is the beauty of using the marked belt is the ease in getting the timing right.
Remember to pull off the wiring harness to expose the mark on the engine block for pulley near the firewall.
Once you release the tension, you can cut the zip ties.
Use your camera phone to ensure the marks are lined up. Also remember that once you crank the main pulley in multiple of 2 turns the marking on the belt should not be used as reference ... only the marking in the pulleys and the engine frame makes sense.
Tips: You can remove the plugs, and then you will not have to fight the compression.
Protect your windscreen. Your wrench on the right cam can swing and crack the windshield.
Salim
Q: Does your timing belt have marks on it to help you install. OEM and aftermarket by Mostobochi have timing marks. Just make sure you keep the arrow pointing to the passenger wheel. If not please return the belt and get the right one. Another member had to return his he bought from another manufacturer.
Start at the bottom pulley, matching marks and then thread it around to the left cam (near the radiator. Gently turn the pulley clockwise to create slack if needed Just match the mark on the belt with the mark on the pulley. Use a wrench on the cam pulley cckw to pull the belt to take up any slack and the mark on the engine block will automatically match. Put a zip tie to hold the belt.. (it is ok to tun the cam clock-wise or anti clockwise few degrees).
Now come over to the right pulley (near the fire-wall). Turn the pulley clockwise to create slack if needed.Once again match the mark on the belt to the pulley. Use a wrench to gently remove any slck by turning ccw. Mark on the engine block will automatically match. Put a zip tie.
This is the beauty of using the marked belt is the ease in getting the timing right.
Remember to pull off the wiring harness to expose the mark on the engine block for pulley near the firewall.
Once you release the tension, you can cut the zip ties.
Use your camera phone to ensure the marks are lined up. Also remember that once you crank the main pulley in multiple of 2 turns the marking on the belt should not be used as reference ... only the marking in the pulleys and the engine frame makes sense.
Tips: You can remove the plugs, and then you will not have to fight the compression.
Protect your windscreen. Your wrench on the right cam can swing and crack the windshield.
Salim
Last edited by salimshah; 01-22-15 at 06:03 PM. Reason: Aisin -> Motosbochi (sp?)
#29
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Clarification:
I am not claiming that the RX engine is non-interference. VVT can interfere, depending on how much advance.
Work with hands and if you feel blockage then back up and check. If you use the starter or engine power, it will be unforgiving.
So a test of two turns minimum by hand cranking.
Salim
I am not claiming that the RX engine is non-interference. VVT can interfere, depending on how much advance.
Work with hands and if you feel blockage then back up and check. If you use the starter or engine power, it will be unforgiving.
So a test of two turns minimum by hand cranking.
Salim
#30
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matts6887, please start a separate thread and take your car shopping debate out of this thread. Some of us are (a lot) more interested to hear/learn about OPs experience and the final results of the root cause analysis for the belt to fail so dramatically. Hope you understand, and thank you in advance.