Instrument Cluster Drive Gear Indicator Light Out
06-07-11, 03:38 AM
#152
Lexus Test Driver
06-07-11, 07:25 AM
#155
My wife has never noticed it was out.
She relies on the gearshift itself.
However, it hit the fan when the gearshift light went out. At night she couldn't tell what she was shifting to.
I had to fix that one pronto and it was easy.
Since the dash light is redundant and she never looks at the dash anyway I can sleep well at night without the fix.
She literally never looks at the dash.
Last weekend I had a wheel off looking for a slow leak.
When I was done I inadvertently left the Parking Brake engaged.
Later I hear her backing out of the garage with an awful squeal and I had to run down the driveway waving my arms to stop her.
My BMW is a stick and I use the Parking Brake often.
She doesn't drive it much but the brake is toast anyways.
Barely holds on the last click.
I mean she never looks at the dash.
If you see an RX driving with its blinker on that's just my wife, going around the World to the left.
She relies on the gearshift itself.
However, it hit the fan when the gearshift light went out. At night she couldn't tell what she was shifting to.
I had to fix that one pronto and it was easy.
Since the dash light is redundant and she never looks at the dash anyway I can sleep well at night without the fix.
She literally never looks at the dash.
Last weekend I had a wheel off looking for a slow leak.
When I was done I inadvertently left the Parking Brake engaged.
Later I hear her backing out of the garage with an awful squeal and I had to run down the driveway waving my arms to stop her.
My BMW is a stick and I use the Parking Brake often.
She doesn't drive it much but the brake is toast anyways.
Barely holds on the last click.
I mean she never looks at the dash.
If you see an RX driving with its blinker on that's just my wife, going around the World to the left.
Last edited by Raoul; 06-07-11 at 07:28 AM.
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CBJTexas13 (09-06-23)
06-07-11, 08:38 AM
#156
Moderator
Keep on reminding her, (and any one else you introduce to driving) that it is imperative that when you move the key first time to run or ON (before start) to wait and check the instrument cluster. This is the self test position of all warnings. After start recheck the cluster to see run position of the gauges (do this while putting on seat belts).
Glancing at hem occasionally is also good, but that one may be harder to adopt. I rented a Toyota Yaris (the cluster is in the middle). That was the time I realized that I am a habitual occasional glance at the instrument cluster driver.
Salim
Glancing at hem occasionally is also good, but that one may be harder to adopt. I rented a Toyota Yaris (the cluster is in the middle). That was the time I realized that I am a habitual occasional glance at the instrument cluster driver.
Salim
06-07-11, 08:57 AM
#157
06-12-11, 05:33 PM
#158
It's a little involved to replace that thing, as people have noted here. I replaced mine last March (2010) and it just went out last week again.
My solution this time is to not bother with it. If it only lasts that long, it isn't worth going in there and replacing it every year for my time.
My solution this time is to not bother with it. If it only lasts that long, it isn't worth going in there and replacing it every year for my time.
06-15-11, 03:28 AM
#159
Drive indicator and rear tail lamp
'99 RX300, drive indicator bulb out for years. Amazing how common it is. Does not really bother me at all and no plans to replace it. Did just pay a Lexus dealer $40 to replace the high rear tail lamp bulb as that indicator did annoy me and after buying a $2 bulb for a DIY, decided the cover was too tricky and did not want to end up breaking it. So let dealer do it, wash and vacuum and gorged on cookies and soda while watching ESPN in the lounge. Not the worst decision ever.
01-19-12, 11:04 PM
#161
Intermediate
I got a set of 5 incandescent bulbs with the base that works with the RX dash. The cost is $1.00 and shipping/handling is $7 from All Electronics. I order a lot of electronic parts from this source, they are reliable. With the time savings and the price of gas not a bad deal....
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...SE-LAMP/1.html
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...SE-LAMP/1.html
Is this the same brightness as the OEM one?
I wonder if there is an Neo LED with 10mm base and 12mm height...
01-19-12, 11:11 PM
#162
Intermediate
Actually...just found this
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...pecs%2FNEO.htm
From the diagrams on the bottom, it looks like neo4-x has the right base diameter and height, and the diameter of the bulb is 4mm too.
The only drawback is they don't have white color.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...pecs%2FNEO.htm
From the diagrams on the bottom, it looks like neo4-x has the right base diameter and height, and the diameter of the bulb is 4mm too.
The only drawback is they don't have white color.
01-19-12, 11:40 PM
#163
Intermediate
Found one more.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2pcs-T3-T4-T5...item2ebacdadeb
Honda uses the same type of bulbs in their HVAC controls in ridgeline and odyssey so there are threads on this.
For those who replace the bulb already. Do you remember if the bulb height is crucial in the fitment or there is a bit more room than the 12mm specified by the neo wedge T4 spec?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2pcs-T3-T4-T5...item2ebacdadeb
Honda uses the same type of bulbs in their HVAC controls in ridgeline and odyssey so there are threads on this.
For those who replace the bulb already. Do you remember if the bulb height is crucial in the fitment or there is a bit more room than the 12mm specified by the neo wedge T4 spec?
02-23-12, 01:44 PM
#164
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: New Jersey
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Did the repair today. Very easy. Takes about 10-15 minutes. I didn't unhook anything. Just moved it out of the way. Also replaced the light on the shifter console. That took about 5 minutes. Very easy also.
12-03-12, 12:04 PM
#165
Driver School Candidate
I know this is a very old thread, but light bulbs continue to burn out.
I am in great debt to those who have made the previous excellent postings, but have my own additional comments and suggestions after having done the thing myself.
When removing the two "trim pieces" and the black trim piece surrounding the instrument cluster, please be advised that the metal clips may break, pop out (and become lost), or become bent and unusable. So, it may be a good idea to purchase 3-5 of these in advance (appx. $.50 apiece), before you begin this project. I lost and/or distended three clips in the process, one from each trim piece. You don't want to put it back together without the right clips in place, otherwise rattles will likely occur.
When removing the black trim piece surrounding the instrument cluster, you should disconnect the electrical connector on the left hand side before attempting to pull the piece out. There is a small tab on the top of the white electical connector. By pushing down on the tab and pulling out (rearwardly)at the same time, the plug should be removable from the socket.
I did not pull the three electrical connector plugs out from the rear side of the instrument cluster. An earlier post stated that by rotating the cluster into the right position, the dreaded "D" bulb can be removed and replaced. This is true, but don't try it with the "P" (for park) bulb. You can't get to it. If you want to replace all of the bulbs, you will have to pull the three connector plugs out. They are not a piece of cake to pull out, unless you have very skilled hands and eyes that can peer over the back side when pulling.
Lastly, the plastic of the base of the bulbs I purchase was rather "soft". As a consequence, when screwing in the replacement bulb(s), be careful not to strip the groove into which the screwdriver blade is inserted. Get a screwdriver that has a blade very close to the dimension of the groove/slit in the base of the bulb. Make sure the bulb in securely seated. Otherwise, you'll be doing it all again. Not fun.
Good luck,
Owner of 1999 RX-300 (REXY)
I am in great debt to those who have made the previous excellent postings, but have my own additional comments and suggestions after having done the thing myself.
When removing the two "trim pieces" and the black trim piece surrounding the instrument cluster, please be advised that the metal clips may break, pop out (and become lost), or become bent and unusable. So, it may be a good idea to purchase 3-5 of these in advance (appx. $.50 apiece), before you begin this project. I lost and/or distended three clips in the process, one from each trim piece. You don't want to put it back together without the right clips in place, otherwise rattles will likely occur.
When removing the black trim piece surrounding the instrument cluster, you should disconnect the electrical connector on the left hand side before attempting to pull the piece out. There is a small tab on the top of the white electical connector. By pushing down on the tab and pulling out (rearwardly)at the same time, the plug should be removable from the socket.
I did not pull the three electrical connector plugs out from the rear side of the instrument cluster. An earlier post stated that by rotating the cluster into the right position, the dreaded "D" bulb can be removed and replaced. This is true, but don't try it with the "P" (for park) bulb. You can't get to it. If you want to replace all of the bulbs, you will have to pull the three connector plugs out. They are not a piece of cake to pull out, unless you have very skilled hands and eyes that can peer over the back side when pulling.
Lastly, the plastic of the base of the bulbs I purchase was rather "soft". As a consequence, when screwing in the replacement bulb(s), be careful not to strip the groove into which the screwdriver blade is inserted. Get a screwdriver that has a blade very close to the dimension of the groove/slit in the base of the bulb. Make sure the bulb in securely seated. Otherwise, you'll be doing it all again. Not fun.
Good luck,
Owner of 1999 RX-300 (REXY)