Front passenger door will not open! Tried everything!
#1
Front passenger door will not open! Tried everything!
Hello all, I come here for assistance once again. It seems as though my 99 RX300 has been giving me nonstop problems since it hit 100k. I'm at 102k now and have already replaced my catalytic converter, all 02 sensors, spark plugs, one ignition boot, flex pipe, and now I have this issue as well as my window washer pump that needs to be replaced. Anyway, here is the issue.
My front passenger door absolutely will not open. It won't open with the master control switch (the lock switch doesn't even move), I can't flip the lock switch from the inside, and I can't even unlock it using the key on the outside (there is resistance when trying to turn it). I managed to pry off the top portion of the door panel just enough to feel around to see if the actuator rods were connected, as well as the power plugs for the actuator. Everything is connected fine. I can't get the door panel open anymore that a small portion on the top since I can't get the door open. I actually had to break the plastic push-in fasteners that are on the side of the panel to get it partially off.
Being as I can't flip the switch or turn the key, I am assuming this maybe something with the black cables that run from the inside handle to the actuator (the ones that look like bicycle brake cables), but I'm not sure what it could be. I thought maybe it was some kind of security issue, so I disconnected the battery and that didn't help me either.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I've been trying to get this door open for almost a month now and it's been very aggravating. Thank you in advance.
My front passenger door absolutely will not open. It won't open with the master control switch (the lock switch doesn't even move), I can't flip the lock switch from the inside, and I can't even unlock it using the key on the outside (there is resistance when trying to turn it). I managed to pry off the top portion of the door panel just enough to feel around to see if the actuator rods were connected, as well as the power plugs for the actuator. Everything is connected fine. I can't get the door panel open anymore that a small portion on the top since I can't get the door open. I actually had to break the plastic push-in fasteners that are on the side of the panel to get it partially off.
Being as I can't flip the switch or turn the key, I am assuming this maybe something with the black cables that run from the inside handle to the actuator (the ones that look like bicycle brake cables), but I'm not sure what it could be. I thought maybe it was some kind of security issue, so I disconnected the battery and that didn't help me either.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I've been trying to get this door open for almost a month now and it's been very aggravating. Thank you in advance.
#2
There is a lock mechanism and a release mechanism.
Lock is done by 3 independent systems 1:Key; 2:Inside ****; 3:electronic motor [which can be activated by 2 switches [one on each front door] and via remote].
Release is done by 2 independent systems 1. Lever in the inside 2. lift handle on the outside.
When lock is engaged the lift handle does not push anything so it moves easily.
I am assuming that something is wrong with the lock mechanism and your door handle is moving freely.
You can try using the key and push on the **** at the same time to aid the unlocking.
Salim
Lock is done by 3 independent systems 1:Key; 2:Inside ****; 3:electronic motor [which can be activated by 2 switches [one on each front door] and via remote].
Release is done by 2 independent systems 1. Lever in the inside 2. lift handle on the outside.
When lock is engaged the lift handle does not push anything so it moves easily.
I am assuming that something is wrong with the lock mechanism and your door handle is moving freely.
You can try using the key and push on the **** at the same time to aid the unlocking.
Salim
#3
Yes, both inside and outside handle move freely. The lock **** on the inside (where the inside handle is located) is in the "unlock" position (showing the red square).
I'll try your suggestion. Thank you!
I'll try your suggestion. Thank you!
#4
Okay, few more things.
What you suggested didn't work because the inside switch is already set to the "unlock" position. But when I turn the key to lock it, the inside switch moves to the lock position (but there is an opposing force). So, on the outside, there is an opposing force when trying to unlock, but on the inside there is an opposing force when trying to lock.
One other thing. When I turn the key to lock/unlock, it doesn't lock/unlock all the doors like it used to. The actuator isn't making any kind of sound to ensure me that it is working.
If the actuator is dead, what can I do?
What you suggested didn't work because the inside switch is already set to the "unlock" position. But when I turn the key to lock it, the inside switch moves to the lock position (but there is an opposing force). So, on the outside, there is an opposing force when trying to unlock, but on the inside there is an opposing force when trying to lock.
One other thing. When I turn the key to lock/unlock, it doesn't lock/unlock all the doors like it used to. The actuator isn't making any kind of sound to ensure me that it is working.
If the actuator is dead, what can I do?
#5
The outside key also operates contacts and as those connections are made, they send the electronic lock motor signal to lock or unlock. So the driver side door key can lock and unlock all doors. If you want to disable the motor then remove battery cable. Once the +12v is removed then you are only dealing with mechanical (rod) connection from the key and the cable connection from the **** on door inside.
First make sure that the inside **** and the key are in-sync or out of sync. [you may need to have the battery in circuit as you verify lock operation on the other doors]. If they are out of sync then coax them into sync by operating both ends ... but do not use excessive force.
Something is definitely wrong. If you are going to take it in for repairs then why work on it on your own. Worst case scenario is that you would need a new door lock actuator.
We have not addressed what has caused this. Kids playing with the lock? Recent repair gone bad? Some one trying to force the lock? Age/use
Salim
First make sure that the inside **** and the key are in-sync or out of sync. [you may need to have the battery in circuit as you verify lock operation on the other doors]. If they are out of sync then coax them into sync by operating both ends ... but do not use excessive force.
Something is definitely wrong. If you are going to take it in for repairs then why work on it on your own. Worst case scenario is that you would need a new door lock actuator.
We have not addressed what has caused this. Kids playing with the lock? Recent repair gone bad? Some one trying to force the lock? Age/use
Salim
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mandyfig
SC430 - 2nd Gen (2001-2010)
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11-02-19 06:36 PM