can't remove glovebox screws??
#31
Removal of the entire IACV off the throttle body, then cleaning it with carb cleaner, seafoam etc. is a much safer method and less invasive to the construction of the IACV unit.
You can actuate the IACV butterfly if you wire it to a 12V source before and after cleaning to notice improvement.
#32
Pole Position
Thread Starter
if i cut the screw head off, how do i get the threaded shaft out?
#33
Moderator
I am not sure at this time that we are talking about the same screws any more.
For IACV cleaning, here in CL we talk about removing the tiny screw head then get the slug out. IACV is the bigger piece with electrical connector and coolant hose.
Why dont you shoot us a picture.
Once the head is chopped of the two pieces separate. Then you have shaft of the screw sticking out. That should give you larger area to grab (as compared to the tapered head).
Salim
For IACV cleaning, here in CL we talk about removing the tiny screw head then get the slug out. IACV is the bigger piece with electrical connector and coolant hose.
Why dont you shoot us a picture.
Once the head is chopped of the two pieces separate. Then you have shaft of the screw sticking out. That should give you larger area to grab (as compared to the tapered head).
Salim
#34
Pole Position
Thread Starter
I am not sure at this time that we are talking about the same screws any more.
For IACV cleaning, here in CL we talk about removing the tiny screw head then get the slug out. IACV is the bigger piece with electrical connector and coolant hose.
Why dont you shoot us a picture.
Once the head is chopped of the two pieces separate. Then you have shaft of the screw sticking out. That should give you larger area to grab (as compared to the tapered head).
Salim
For IACV cleaning, here in CL we talk about removing the tiny screw head then get the slug out. IACV is the bigger piece with electrical connector and coolant hose.
Why dont you shoot us a picture.
Once the head is chopped of the two pieces separate. Then you have shaft of the screw sticking out. That should give you larger area to grab (as compared to the tapered head).
Salim
i'm changing my b2s1 sensor this weekend and thought i should try revisiting this pesky iacv. last time i just sprayed some carb cleaner into the throttle body because i couldn't get the 3 iacv screws off. last time, you mentioned to use pliers at 90 degrees for extra torque. by that you mean they should be perpendicular to the screw shaft, correct? i tried doing that last time but there just wasn't any room whatsoever so i was forced to use them horizontally/vertically (without much surface area). i was using home depot husky brand needle nose locking pliers which should have been sufficient, but would try a more expensive pair if it would make a difference. they must be super tight though if bolt extractors wouldn't get them out though. if that fails i might hacksaw the screw head to allow for a flathead screwdriver. if the throttle body needs to be cleaned as well, i might just take off the whole thing and it would make the iacv easier.
thoughts?
#35
Moderator
The right tool is the right size phillips screwdriver. I gently tapped the crews with the screwdriver seated with a light hammer.
Now if the head is stripped you have to deal with size of your hands and tools available to you. Max torque is when the pliers are 90 degrees to the center line of the screw/bolt. The jaws have to bite into the head and not slip.
Replace the screws with hex head.
Salim
Now if the head is stripped you have to deal with size of your hands and tools available to you. Max torque is when the pliers are 90 degrees to the center line of the screw/bolt. The jaws have to bite into the head and not slip.
Replace the screws with hex head.
Salim
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