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Step 17: Remove center bracket upper bolt
What is holding up the radiator is a center framing bracket located between the two fans. Carefully pull the radiator up and towards you to gain access to the upper bolt. Have your assistant hold the radiator in this position being careful not to put too much pressure on the condenser. Begin by loosening the upper bolt holding the bracket to the frame. You won’t be able to get the bolt out completely using a standard socket as the socket will get stuck the more the bolt is retracted. I used a pass-through socket set as it was available and thin enough to get the job done. You may be able to use a standard box wrench or a ratcheting wrench instead.
Step 18: Remove the center bracket lower bolt
Pull the radiator up and forward as far as you can go while still being careful of the condenser. Have your assistant hold it up in this position. Kneel down and look through the air flow slit in the bumper. You will see the bottom of the A/C condenser but probably not the bolt. Using a socket extension that is at least 6” long, pass it through the air flow slit and angle the socket under the condenser. Once the socket clears the condenser, make the extension perpendicular to the ground to get the socket onto the lower bracket bolt.
Step 19: Remove the radiator
The bracket is now free of the vehicle and you can pull the radiator and fan assembly out. On the left and right sides are small plastic pieces whose tops attach to the plastic cover removed in step 3. Remove these so they don’t get caught up. I ran into a small snag on the driver’s side with the fan and frame, but the metal cross frame without the center bracket can now be flexed a bit to clear the fan.
Step 20: Remove the coolant temperature sensor
Place the assembly on the ground with the radiator on the ground and the fan assembly facing up. Using a 19mm deep well socket, remove the sensor (if you are reusing it). Install a new sensor on the new radiator by the same manner. In the photo you can see the post for the lower support bushing.
Step 21: The transmission cooler line
The bolts were thoroughly rusted to the frame. With the radiator removed, I could easily gain access to the bolts with tools and it was still a chore. Because of the difficulty of accessing these bolts from the bottom with anything other than a socket, I highly recommend replacing this part while the radiator is removed. For ease of viewing, most of the photos were taken with the new part pictured.
Step 22: Prep the transmission cooler bolts for removal.
There are two access holes covered by rubber plugs near the cooler line bolts. You can remove the plugs to spray anti-rust lubricant directly on the bolt threads. I think with some flame these would have come out, but I had none, so this didn’t work for me. On to cutting them out...
Step 23: Remove the cooler line bolts
Using a Dremel with a cutting wheel, start by cutting a slit in the bolt heads. Then use a flat head screwdriver bit with a socket to try to unscrew the bolt. On the first bolt I was able to unscrew it using the flat head bit. On the second, half of the head stripped off. I completely removed the head of this one. This left a small portion of the stem sticking out. It wouldn’t come out with locking pliers so I cut a slit in it and backed it out with the flat head bit.
Step 24: Prep for install
Clean up the area, repair/repaint as needed, and replace the access hole plugs. New hoses cost between $8-10 each. You could buy generic hose at an auto parts store for about $1.40/ft, but be aware that it is significantly thinner and cheaper material.
Step 25: Install oil cooler
Install the new cooler line and bolt into place. Attach the hoses to the cooler line.
Step 26: Begin Radiator Prep
Install the coolant temperature sensor with a 19mm deep well socket. I found it easier to attach one of the transmission cooler hoses directly to the radiator (as shown).
Step 27: Install lower radiator bushings
These fit into cut-outs in the frame (lower radiator support hole), then the radiator is lowered onto them. Small posts on the radiator fit into the bushing.
Step 29: Install Fan Assembly
My fan assembly did not come with new wire clips, so I salvaged the clips from my old assembly. You’ll have to remove the fan to gain access to the bottom of the clips to release them (squeeze the sides of the post). Attach the new fan assembly to the new radiator with (6) M6-1.00x16mm bolts and washers and push the two clips into their respective places.
Step 30: Install Radiator/Fan
Place a piece of cardboard over the radiator to protect the fins during installation. Carefully lower the unit into the car. Before you fully seat the radiator into the lower bushings, install the center brace by reversing the removal steps. Once that is in, seat the radiator in the bushing and start re-assembly.
Step 31: Install the two plastic side pieces.
I found these two pieces to be a little difficult to re-install. I used the top part where the plastic retaining clip goes through as a guide to installation. They will be loosely installed and not exactly in their final position until you finally install the plastic cover removed in Step 3.
Driver’s Side Plastic Piece
This piece is markedly different from the passenger side, so there is no concern with installing on the wrong side. Placement is as show in the second photo. The top portion is secured similar to the passenger side.
Step 32: Burp the system
Once everything has been reconnected, begin refilling the radiator until full; leave the cap OFF. Fill the overflow reservoir to the “cold” level. Turn your heating system to “defrost”then start the engine (alternate methods recommend turning the heat to hot, but leaving the fans off - you decide). Carefully watch the temperature gauge to be sure the engine doesn’t overheat and let the car idle until it reaches operating temperature. DO NOT rev the engine during this procedure.
At this point, I had a helper watch the gauge while I refilled the radiator. I added about another 1/3 of a gallon fluid to the radiator. Each time I added fluid, I watched more air bubbles escape and the fluid level drop. When air bubbles stopped escaping, I turned the engine off to let it cool. I’ll probably repeat this process once more, then drive it and check the fluid levels regularly until I’m sure all the air bubbles have escaped.
03-13-16, 07:34 PM
