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Changing transmission fluid with high mileage

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Old 04-03-16, 01:09 AM
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hsmac
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Default Changing transmission fluid with high mileage

my FWD rx has 150,000 on it and transmission fluid has never been changed. it sounds like changing is the best thing to do despite lexus manual, and from what i've read think several drain and fills w/cleaning is the best way to go about this given the high mileage and lack of service.

since there are many reports of tranny failure right after a fluid change, i'm wondering if it's ok to check and clean the filter often during the days following the change without adding fresh fluid each time. since i don't want to introduce too much new fluid too quickly into the vehicle, would it be ok to drain and fill once, then each 100 miles or so check and clean the filter (replacing with the same fluid that was drained) to rid of any large debris that may have come loose? then do the same thing over a couple times until most of the fluid in the system is replaced.

i want to do everything i can to prevent failure. what's strange to me is how people who have been doing regular changes from the start have had their tranny failed while mine is still smooth after 150k...

Last edited by hsmac; 04-03-16 at 01:13 AM.
Old 04-03-16, 07:30 AM
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fastnoypi
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Default Changing transmission fluid with high mileage

sounds like you have a good plan with the drain and refill and filter swap. 100 mile maintenance is excessive though, i'd consider to do it at your oil change interval a few times. Drain your front differential too since it shares the same fluid.

Last edited by fastnoypi; 04-03-16 at 08:43 AM.
Old 04-03-16, 08:24 AM
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hypervish
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Originally Posted by fastnoypi
sounds like you have a good plan with the drain and refill and filter swap. 100 mile maintenance is excessive though, i'd consider to do it at your oil change interval a few times. Drain your transfer case too since it shares the same fluid.
The transfer case takes gear oil, and it has a completely different sump. I suppose you mean drain your front differential, as that shares ATF with the transmission (hence the term transaxle).
Old 04-03-16, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by hypervish
The transfer case takes gear oil, and it has a completely different sump. I suppose you mean drain your front differential, as that shares ATF with the transmission (hence the term transaxle).
Thanks for the correction, that's what I was thinking.
Old 04-03-16, 09:17 AM
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salimshah
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Little confused ... when you drop the pan to get to the filter the amount of fluid dumped (and later added) is practically the same as drain and fill.

My recommendation is to drop the pan and clean/change filter every 110K interval. Make sure you place the magnets at the same spot. Replace gasket or use FIPG. Drain and fill at recommended interval [choose that makes sense to you 15k or 30k]. 60K and beyond is maybe too long.

If your fluid is chocolate shake color then do some repeated drain and fill.

If you are an avid DIYer and use the continues add and fill using the transmission pump, then you will disagree with the above. You dont need any advice.

Over the years, I have never been able to read the fluid level via the dip-stick. First time I did the drain and fill, I asked the parts counter about how much would be needed. I measured the fluid that came out from the transaxle (2 spots for the FWD) and the parts counter was correct [no partial quarts were needed]. Now I just get the bottles and pour them in at the end.

Salim
Old 04-03-16, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by salimshah
Over the years, I have never been able to read the fluid level via the dip-stick....

Salim
A trick that i've used from servicing our past Mercedes and reading other Toyota manuals is to drain and measure the old drained fluid, replace with equivalent volume of fluid. Drive the car for a few miles (city traffic preferred to allow shifting) to get the ATF up to approximately 80*C. Then check the hot level via the dipstick. If it is not within the acceptable range, top off as needed but take caution not to overfill. Overfill can cause cavitation and possible foaming of the ATF.
Old 04-03-16, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by salimshah
Little confused ... when you drop the pan to get to the filter the amount of fluid dumped (and later added) is practically the same as drain and fill.

My recommendation is to drop the pan and clean/change filter every 110K interval. Make sure you place the magnets at the same spot. Replace gasket or use FIPG. Drain and fill at recommended interval [choose that makes sense to you 15k or 30k]. 60K and beyond is maybe too long.

If your fluid is chocolate shake color then do some repeated drain and fill.

If you are an avid DIYer and use the continues add and fill using the transmission pump, then you will disagree with the above. You dont need any advice.

Over the years, I have never been able to read the fluid level via the dip-stick. First time I did the drain and fill, I asked the parts counter about how much would be needed. I measured the fluid that came out from the transaxle (2 spots for the FWD) and the parts counter was correct [no partial quarts were needed]. Now I just get the bottles and pour them in at the end.

Salim
+1 to Salims recommendation!
Old 04-03-16, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by fastnoypi
Thanks for the correction, that's what I was thinking.
You're welcome!
Originally Posted by fastnoypi
A trick that i've used from servicing our past Mercedes and reading other Toyota manuals is to drain and measure the old drained fluid, replace with equivalent volume of fluid. Drive the car for a few miles (city traffic preferred to allow shifting) to get the ATF up to approximately 80*C. Then check the hot level via the dipstick. If it is not within the acceptable range, top off as needed but take caution not to overfill. Overfill can cause cavitation and possible foaming of the ATF.
Yeah, this is a good method!

I've drained and filled my RX so many times now, that I usually just start with 4 quarts. And then measure after it's been driven and warmed up. Usually that's the perfect level, sometimes needs another .2 - .5 quarts, depending on how warm the transmission fluid was prior to draining.
Old 04-03-16, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by fastnoypi
sounds like you have a good plan with the drain and refill and filter swap. 100 mile maintenance is excessive though, i'd consider to do it at your oil change interval a few times. Drain your front differential too since it shares the same fluid.
you don't think that would be too long before checking the filter again? some lady was saying even her filter was clean before her fluid was changed and after it was changed the filter had debris when the tranny failed.

Originally Posted by salimshah
Little confused ... when you drop the pan to get to the filter the amount of fluid dumped (and later added) is practically the same as drain and fill.

My recommendation is to drop the pan and clean/change filter every 110K interval. Make sure you place the magnets at the same spot. Replace gasket or use FIPG. Drain and fill at recommended interval [choose that makes sense to you 15k or 30k]. 60K and beyond is maybe too long.

If your fluid is chocolate shake color then do some repeated drain and fill.

If you are an avid DIYer and use the continues add and fill using the transmission pump, then you will disagree with the above. You dont need any advice.

Over the years, I have never been able to read the fluid level via the dip-stick. First time I did the drain and fill, I asked the parts counter about how much would be needed. I measured the fluid that came out from the transaxle (2 spots for the FWD) and the parts counter was correct [no partial quarts were needed]. Now I just get the bottles and pour them in at the end.

Salim
basically instead of adding too much fresh fluid at once to prevent shocking and clogging i thought maybe i'd reuse the old fluid just so i could check the filter. i'm a little paranoid that my filter will get clogged since the fluid has never been changed during 150k which is why i want to check it frequently until i can be assured there are no issues. if i wait 15 or 30k that seems like a long time where i could have prevented clogging if that were the reason for failure.

i can't read the dipstick either. and for some reason mine says type III on it
Old 04-03-16, 04:47 PM
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so how prevalent is this failure issue under my circumstances? i wanted to wait longer between drain and fills but was worried that the filter might get clogged so wanted to check it even if i weren't to add fresh fluid. am i correct that failure can result from a) fresh fluid causing slippage or b) deposits clogging pathways? if i can't prevent the former i'd want to do everything i can to prevent the latter.
Old 04-03-16, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by hsmac
you don't think that would be too long before checking the filter again? some lady was saying even her filter was clean before her fluid was changed and after it was changed the filter had debris when the tranny failed.
Assuming you are doing a 3k-5k oil change interval i dont think it would be too long to check. It will allow many cycles of the ATF to cycle and strain through the filter. You are free to pick a shorter interval but IMHO it would be a waste of good ATF.


Originally Posted by hsmac
basically instead of adding too much fresh fluid at once to prevent shocking and clogging i thought maybe i'd reuse the old fluid just so i could check the filter. i'm a little paranoid that my filter will get clogged since the fluid has never been changed during 150k...:

reusing the old fluid is absolutely the worst idea. It is most likely discolored due to wear and suspended particles. Drain and put new ATF fluid. New fluid does not cause failures. If your RX is equipped with a metal reusable filter, remove it and temporarily use disposable filters for a few changes to trap and capture particles. Chemically wash your metal reusable filter for use at a later date when you are confident about your flush.

Note the maintenance schedule does not mention a drain and fill suggestion for the transmission fluid. Only inspection at 30k intervals. Some folks are proactive enough to interpret that as a time to drain and fill for piece of mind of a clean transmission.

FWIW..the type III on your dipstick is the old spec of Dexron III fluid. Use Toyota type IV atf or equivalent spec.
Old 04-03-16, 08:30 PM
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salimshah
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Dont be a worry *****.

If some thing breaks inside the filter will catch the material and postmortem will show it .. even if the whole fluid was replaced a day before.

The only guarantee is was offered by the manufacturer but that is over, if not by milage for sure by time for 1st gen RX.

At this time drop the pan and clean things up. You will get your first drain. Based on how bad the fluid is you can do more drain and fills,

Salim
Old 04-03-16, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by fastnoypi
Assuming you are doing a 3k-5k oil change interval i dont think it would be too long to check. It will allow many cycles of the ATF to cycle and strain through the filter. You are free to pick a shorter interval but IMHO it would be a waste of good ATF.





reusing the old fluid is absolutely the worst idea. It is most likely discolored due to wear and suspended particles. Drain and put new ATF fluid. New fluid does not cause failures. If your RX is equipped with a metal reusable filter, remove it and temporarily use disposable filters for a few changes to trap and capture particles. Chemically wash your metal reusable filter for use at a later date when you are confident about your flush.

Note the maintenance schedule does not mention a drain and fill suggestion for the transmission fluid. Only inspection at 30k intervals. Some folks are proactive enough to interpret that as a time to drain and fill for piece of mind of a clean transmission.

FWIW..the type III on your dipstick is the old spec of Dexron III fluid. Use Toyota type IV atf or equivalent spec.
i thought using the drain fluid would be the same as not touching it at all? the maintenance schedule is unclear to me since it includes the LX model as well, but it does mention something about checking/changing the transfer case and differential oil which i haven't done at all

where do i get these disposable filters?
Old 04-03-16, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by salimshah
Dont be a worry *****.

If some thing breaks inside the filter will catch the material and postmortem will show it .. even if the whole fluid was replaced a day before.

The only guarantee is was offered by the manufacturer but that is over, if not by milage for sure by time for 1st gen RX.

At this time drop the pan and clean things up. You will get your first drain. Based on how bad the fluid is you can do more drain and fills,

Salim
when you said i don't need any advice earlier, did you mean to not change the fluid in the differential as fastnoypi suggested? i'm unfamiliar with what the transfer case, differential and other related parts are and if they apply to both the AWD and FWD, but as long as i drain and fill, am i correct to assume that all the parts that use ATF share the same fluid and will automatically circulate?
Old 04-03-16, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by hsmac


where do i get these disposable filters?
Any good auto parts supplier has them. They are less than 20 on rockauto. IIRC, lexus stopped the metal filters mid-2002 production year.


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