salimshah

It has been a while that I examined the brake assembly,

Does the rubber boot start out expanded with fresh pads or compressed?

Either way, the boot ends should not allow a slide through, as that will allow the pin-slide to accumulate dirt/rust. The bellow action should allow the movement. Material and number of ridges should match with OEM.

I can understand that my reasoning is open to discussion, but we must agree that the uneven wear between the two sides of the pads is because the caliper is not floating on the slide-pins.

My suspect are;
Pins (rust, bent, burr/non-smooth)
Hole (the pins go through), off center, rust/non-smooth) .. out of spec if after market.
Brake-pad/shim assembly is tilted .. [Single piston, must apply force in perfect center of the pins and parallel to the pins) if not then the caliper would be racked and the pins would bind.


Salim

Drcoffee

You will have to trust me on this one. The red arrow is pointing to the opening that needed widening. The blue arrow is pointing to the lip that secures to the inner and outer opening of where the bushing goes thru. In the boot with the red arrow, the rim is too thick and clamps down on the steel bushing.

so the bushing blue arrow is pushed thru the two rubber boots green arrow. The rubber boots secure to the caliper. In my case the rubber was too thick and once the bushing is pushed in, the rubber is too tight and grips the bushing preventing the caliper from floating. This caliper has one glide pin and one bushing that is bolted in place and the caliper glides on the bushing. Once I opened the inner lip, the caliper was able to shift left and right. Up til that time the calpier would stay clamped on the pads causing drag and wear of the pads.