Uneven rear brake wear
#1
Uneven rear brake wear
just a year after replacing the brakes including the calipers and the right rear pads are toast. The outer is completely worn to the backing plate. The pistons moved freely so it can only be the glide pins which were lubed well when installed. I dont get it.
#5
Are the guide pins moving freely? The lower one that is part of the caliper gets stuck in mine all the time (even after recently replacing them). I also found that the green permatex lube was turning to glue after a while. Switched to silicone and it has helped a ton. But they still get stuck even when loaded up with lube and clean.
#6
I noticed that the bushing on the caliper doesnt move freely even when its fully lubed with silicone brake grease. The front/top pin moves freely. And I think you are correct, its the one on the caliper thats the problem.
#7
In my 18 years of ownership, I never lubed the glide pins. Just made sure there is no buildup (visually). Never needed to turn the rotors and the pad wear was equal. I did change brake fluid every 3 yrs. At the same time, the system was never subjected to bad environment [sand, snow, mud, chemicals].
Lube has a purpose, but at the same time it is a magnet for dust/dirt. I am not poo pooing lube, but it should be a very thin layer and the boots must be in perfect condition.
Salim
Lube has a purpose, but at the same time it is a magnet for dust/dirt. I am not poo pooing lube, but it should be a very thin layer and the boots must be in perfect condition.
Salim
Trending Topics
#8
i had the same situation on one of my rear calipers. The factory grease was almost non-existent and same accelerated outer pad wear. Cleaned and repacked with permatex green brake lube, the last couple inspections the pads are wearing even. Don't forget lubing the hardware where the pad "ears" slide back an forth on...that area can pick up dust and cake over time and create added resistance.
#9
In my 18 years of ownership, I never lubed the glide pins. Just made sure there is no buildup (visually). Never needed to turn the rotors and the pad wear was equal. I did change brake fluid every 3 yrs. At the same time, the system was never subjected to bad environment [sand, snow, mud, chemicals].
Lube has a purpose, but at the same time it is a magnet for dust/dirt. I am not poo pooing lube, but it should be a very thin layer and the boots must be in perfect condition.
Salim
Lube has a purpose, but at the same time it is a magnet for dust/dirt. I am not poo pooing lube, but it should be a very thin layer and the boots must be in perfect condition.
Salim
#10
In my 18 years of ownership, I never lubed the glide pins. Just made sure there is no buildup (visually). Never needed to turn the rotors and the pad wear was equal. I did change brake fluid every 3 yrs. At the same time, the system was never subjected to bad environment [sand, snow, mud, chemicals].
Lube has a purpose, but at the same time it is a magnet for dust/dirt. I am not poo pooing lube, but it should be a very thin layer and the boots must be in perfect condition.
Salim
Lube has a purpose, but at the same time it is a magnet for dust/dirt. I am not poo pooing lube, but it should be a very thin layer and the boots must be in perfect condition.
Salim
#11
Update:
My daughter was able to bring the beast home this weekend and I had a chance to break it down today. It wasnt too much grease causing the issue. I found that the rubber boots that seal the lower bushing/glide pin were manufactered too thick where they insert into the caliper. When the bushing was inserted through the hole, the rubber caused it to bind. So I used my dremel with a sanding drum to remove some rubber material from the inner circumference. Once it was clearenced, the bushing was able to move freely. Now the caliper will float correctly. Problem solved.
My daughter was able to bring the beast home this weekend and I had a chance to break it down today. It wasnt too much grease causing the issue. I found that the rubber boots that seal the lower bushing/glide pin were manufactered too thick where they insert into the caliper. When the bushing was inserted through the hole, the rubber caused it to bind. So I used my dremel with a sanding drum to remove some rubber material from the inner circumference. Once it was clearenced, the bushing was able to move freely. Now the caliper will float correctly. Problem solved.