If you see the LEDs on the keyfob lit when the buttons are pressed, it sounds like your receiver is bad. There also seems to be an issue with the pass door switch module.

When you removed the panel from the rear pass door, did you pull the actuator/latch out to see if the lock cable was connected to the actuator?

 

1. I replaced the new actuator and Yes, cable was connected
2. How do I test the receiver? If I have the pass door switch module is bad, would the remote button work?

Thank you, hope I get your answer soon.

 

I found this thread that seems to have info related to your problem. I hven't had your issue so havent dug into the receiver before.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...r-located.html

Also, if you manually can't open the rear pass lock from the inside, then the cable is not connected between the manual switch and the actuator. I do not see any other explanation.

 

Thank you.
I found the problem on the passenger door switch assembly. If I unplug this box everything works fine, the remote, manual, or power switch.. Everything is working normal.

Now I am not sure if this switch box is bad or the receiver ? if I unplug this door switch, everything works fine

 

That unit is likely bad, since when you removed it from the circuit everything else works. The large component marked NAIS CR2-12V on the circuit board is a relay that controls the power window operation. There are many threads devoted to replacing that part to fix issues with the power windows. I assume the smaller part next to it, marked Tanko TB2-160, controls the lock operation as that part is also a relay. The entire board is probably very expensive to replace. You can order the Tanko TB2 relay from aliexpress or maybe ebay, and try to replace it. Or, take the board and part to a local electronics repair person to do the desoldering/resoldering for you. I have replaced the NAIS relay on the drivers switch myself. If you do attempt it, read this thread:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...-or-motor.html

There are a couple of videos in that thread that show the repair of the NAIS relay. There are other threads that address this as well, just search and read.

 

Think of the system as:
wireless [remote + receiver) [very unlikely to be door/window specific] ... all works or none works
Mechanical, electromechanical
Mechanical: By rods. levers, key, push button (lock)
Electromechanical: Inside door button, motors/actuators, wiring. Local boards, relays, switches etc.

Salim

 

I have an update. This morning I took my front passenger door switch assembly to a friend and install into his RX300 same year. It works fine. I took his install into my car, same problem..

So, the problem is not the passenger door switch. Could it be the receiver?
joseph

 

Since you have a friend with the same car that allows you to swap parts, I would swap the driver switch assemblies. It is the master switch, and at this point is more likely the cause of the issue. If the issue still stays with your car, then look at the receiver. But the fact that the remote works when you initially removed the passenger switch assembly makes me think it is not the receiver.

 

Hi Salim, would you explain:
wireless [remote + receiver) [very unlikely to be door/window specific] ... all works or none works

joseph

 

The wireless portion replaces the use of the key. For wireless to work, your remote should be sending the signal (good battery and functional) and your wireless receiver must be functioning. The wireless receiver, receives the signal and interprets what the command is being send and then on code matching supplies electrical signal for the (as an example) un-lock doors. This unlock-signals is the same as as if you were pressing the unlock electronic push button at drive/passenger-door.

I am making a leap here, where I assume no-one has worked on the wiring and the wiring is in tact. The switch should be in working condition.

In nutshell, I described the whole system and the intent was for you to logically narrow down the area of the problem.

Here is another way to look at what I stated. If the Lock works and unlock does not work, the remote is sending the signal and the receiver is receiving and interpreting the signal. [there may be the chance the unlock remote button is messed up, but if the led is lit, then most likely the problem does not exist in the remote or the receiver. I would concentrate on the actual door switch and down-stream, and see if the door switch can unlock.

Salim

 

Try to find a wiring diagram otherwise trouble-shooting may be very difficult. Those doors all interconnected each other. One thing you can try is disconnect battery to
lose all memory settings.

 

Thanks Salim

1. The Remote and buttons on the remote are good.--> If I unplug the front passenger door switch assembly, everything works (switches, remotes, autolock etc.)
2. Front Driver and passenger door switch assembly modules are good --> I swapped them into another car, they worked.
3. The door switches on driver or passenger door functional OK. (lock and unlock all doors)
4. Remote buttons NOT working at all unless #1 above
5. Manual (by hand): ---> unLock individually ok ---> Lock all other doors but not lock rear passenger -->I replaced the actuator, same problem. it can't push the lock.

If #1 above work, the receiver should be OK? If the receiver ok then it should be the rear passenger assy, but why rear assy works when front passenger assy is unlugged? I don't understand. Do you have the link for the schematic?
revised...I just looked on the rear switches. They don't have the electronic circuits but only the windows switches, they should be OK..

I found the receiver on Ebay is $9

Joseph

 

#5 -> Manual ... Do you mean the **** next to the release lever is unable to lock? If yes, then the door lock assembly [the whole actuator, and not just the motor] needs to be repaired or replaced.

From your description the receiver seems to be working. It is a pain to get to it (behind panels) and you will have to program it.

Sorry, I dont have the schematics, Maybe another member can point you to one.

Salim

 

Yes, the **** next to the release lever. Push by hand, it is hard, not move (lock). But if I unplug the connector from the actuator, its ok: the **** is easily lock or unlock.. Therefore, the door lock essembly should be ok but something wrong with the electronic circuit keeps sending out the unlock signal to the actuator??
And I replaced the actuator too.

 

Alarm goes off (sounds) when open by key on passenger door. Did anyone have that problem?