Right front suspension replacement question
12-13-17, 07:57 AM
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
Right front suspension replacement question
As I have reported here my 162,000 mile 1999 RX has has a horrible clunking coming from the right side and recently there is a lot of wobble and pulling. I took it to a good mechanic and he showed me the problems.
Symptoms caused by: right strut mount very loose. Right control arm, bushing has lots of movement.
Other issues: Right axle shaft torn boot on the engine side, and it did have a small in and out movement. Both ball joints torn and likely dry.
Question. My plan is to replace the control arm and the strut as a whole assembly, which seems to be the way recommended here. What about the axle? I don't see much about it here, maybe they don't rise to issue-level. Yes, I will be in under the car, but with limited skills and budget ... how easy is it to replace?
Also, I searched dry ball joints and came up empty. My guess is they can run low on grease for a long time? The shop warned me unless they were replaced I could easily end up with the wheel collapsing on the highway. Actually, they want to replace the struts and C.A. on both sides, fix the leak in the PS and rear valve cover and the sway bar links all for $4,000. That's not going to happen! I think I can give the strut and C.A. a go. I guess my main question is about the axle and ball joints. I put 3-5000 miles a year on the car.
Symptoms caused by: right strut mount very loose. Right control arm, bushing has lots of movement.
Other issues: Right axle shaft torn boot on the engine side, and it did have a small in and out movement. Both ball joints torn and likely dry.
Question. My plan is to replace the control arm and the strut as a whole assembly, which seems to be the way recommended here. What about the axle? I don't see much about it here, maybe they don't rise to issue-level. Yes, I will be in under the car, but with limited skills and budget ... how easy is it to replace?
Also, I searched dry ball joints and came up empty. My guess is they can run low on grease for a long time? The shop warned me unless they were replaced I could easily end up with the wheel collapsing on the highway. Actually, they want to replace the struts and C.A. on both sides, fix the leak in the PS and rear valve cover and the sway bar links all for $4,000. That's not going to happen! I think I can give the strut and C.A. a go. I guess my main question is about the axle and ball joints. I put 3-5000 miles a year on the car.
Last edited by Puttster; 12-13-17 at 09:09 AM.
12-13-17, 10:56 AM
#2
Moderator
OEM ball joints do not have grease fitting, so once they have a play, you need to replace them. Moog may have an after market that may have a grease fitting. When you do any of the following control arm, ball joint, strut, you would need wheel alignment. So I would suggest do the other control arm too. It will be cheaper (more labor though) to replace the shock instead of the whole assembly. [Long term reviews of the whole assembly are not there yet].
Shaft boot is again available in kit.
Good luck with your decision ... I would recommend fixing the sloppy front end first.
Salim
Shaft boot is again available in kit.
Good luck with your decision ... I would recommend fixing the sloppy front end first.
Salim
12-13-17, 12:44 PM
#3
Driver
Thread Starter
So except for taking the wheel off there is no big advantage in doing the strut and control arm all at once? That's good to know.
Do you mean replace just the mount not the whole assembly? I think the shock is okay. the mount though, you can see it moving around looking from the top. I do like the price of the mount better than the assembly though it will take me a lot longer to install it, I think. Is the ring that gets sold with the mount the famed TSB bushing? I wouldn't want to fit the mount only to have some other part in there be bad.
Also, will the in-and-out movement (~1/4 ") of the axle stop when the new control arm is installed? The bad bushing is the one in the middle of the arm and I think is is almost all disappeared.
Do you mean replace just the mount not the whole assembly? I think the shock is okay. the mount though, you can see it moving around looking from the top. I do like the price of the mount better than the assembly though it will take me a lot longer to install it, I think. Is the ring that gets sold with the mount the famed TSB bushing? I wouldn't want to fit the mount only to have some other part in there be bad.
Also, will the in-and-out movement (~1/4 ") of the axle stop when the new control arm is installed? The bad bushing is the one in the middle of the arm and I think is is almost all disappeared.
12-13-17, 01:16 PM
#4
Moderator
So except for taking the wheel off there is no big advantage in doing the strut and control arm all at once? That's good to know.
Do you mean replace just the mount not the whole assembly? I think the shock is okay. the mount though, you can see it moving around looking from the top. I do like the price of the mount better than the assembly though it will take me a lot longer to install it, I think. Is the ring that gets sold with the mount the famed TSB bushing? I wouldn't want to fit the mount only to have some other part in there be bad.
Also, will the in-and-out movement (~1/4 ") of the axle stop when the new control arm is installed? The bad bushing is the one in the middle of the arm and I think is is almost all disappeared.
Do you mean replace just the mount not the whole assembly? I think the shock is okay. the mount though, you can see it moving around looking from the top. I do like the price of the mount better than the assembly though it will take me a lot longer to install it, I think. Is the ring that gets sold with the mount the famed TSB bushing? I wouldn't want to fit the mount only to have some other part in there be bad.
Also, will the in-and-out movement (~1/4 ") of the axle stop when the new control arm is installed? The bad bushing is the one in the middle of the arm and I think is is almost all disappeared.
My reference was about quick strut [strut + spring] vs just the strut. You can save money by just doing strut. But since your strut is good, you just need to replace what is bad.
As far as I know you can not do the bush itself on control arm and you have to get the whole control arm. That is one part, I could not justify buying OEM.
Salim
Last edited by salimshah; 12-13-17 at 01:59 PM.
12-14-17, 08:02 PM
#6
I am not quite sure what is referred to as strut mounts. Strut is connected to hub knuckle at the bottom, then has plate for spring>spring insulator>spring>top spring insulator>bearing plate with 3 bolts. Know nothing of no mounts.
OP if you can, find Quick Strut or Complete Strut for your car. best bet.
Control arm is control arm. You can replace it in same run as you "are there". But it is not replaced with strut as one assembly.
Bad drive axle has to be replaced right away. You'll need 12 point 30mm impact socket for that as special tool. Impact wrench, of course.
It's about 2 hr slow pace DIY job. Be ready for ATF leak when drive axle is removed.
OP if you can, find Quick Strut or Complete Strut for your car. best bet.
Control arm is control arm. You can replace it in same run as you "are there". But it is not replaced with strut as one assembly.
Bad drive axle has to be replaced right away. You'll need 12 point 30mm impact socket for that as special tool. Impact wrench, of course.
It's about 2 hr slow pace DIY job. Be ready for ATF leak when drive axle is removed.
12-15-17, 07:56 PM
#7
Driver
Thread Starter
I went ahead and ordered the whole assembly. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-Strut-Spring-Assembly-RH-Passenger-Right-Front-for-Lexus-RX300-FWD/311668488892?fits=Make%3ALexus%7CModel%3ARX300&epid=705450587&hash=item4890e3babc:g:OAQAAOSwstJZRx8e&vxp=mtr
Hoping for an easy changeout ($97) thus saving $500.
Edit: I only ordered one, though. I know folks (and my mechanic) say you have to replace both at once but If anyone has experience replacing only one, I'd like to hear about it.
Hoping for an easy changeout ($97) thus saving $500.
Edit: I only ordered one, though. I know folks (and my mechanic) say you have to replace both at once but If anyone has experience replacing only one, I'd like to hear about it.
Last edited by Puttster; 12-16-17 at 07:10 AM.
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12-16-17, 05:15 PM
#8
Lexus Test Driver
These look very economical, and I like the idea of not having to try to compress a spring! Please let us know how they work. I always read on this forum that it's best to use genuine Lexus mounts. I'm trying to figure out what additional parts that would involve since this is a pre-assembled unit.
12-21-17, 03:20 PM
#9
Driver
Thread Starter
Job was easy, even for me. The assembly was by made by FCS. I PB blasted a few days before and on the day it came frfom ebay.
To remove the two big bolts I tried an impact wrench with a 7/8" socket - no go, but on a 2' long bar they came off easily. To get the nuts off the link where it attaches to the strut, that's where the impact wrench is useful. The three supplied nuts for the top hat were 15mm. one of them is way under the cowl so you have to use an open end wrench. I didn't have a 15mm wrench so I reused the 14mm OEMs.
The job took me two hours and the terrible clanking from in there is now completely gone. The car has a bad control arm and was already pulling and sliding on the road. It may be this strut replacement slightly worsened the pulling but that could be my imagination. I'll be replacing the control arms soon and I think that will fix the pulling problem.
on edit; I replaced the control arm and the Lexus is reportedly driving "like a dream" so it looks like replacing the strut did not mess up the alignment. I will follow up if there is any kind of problem but so far I give this replacement an A+.
To remove the two big bolts I tried an impact wrench with a 7/8" socket - no go, but on a 2' long bar they came off easily. To get the nuts off the link where it attaches to the strut, that's where the impact wrench is useful. The three supplied nuts for the top hat were 15mm. one of them is way under the cowl so you have to use an open end wrench. I didn't have a 15mm wrench so I reused the 14mm OEMs.
The job took me two hours and the terrible clanking from in there is now completely gone. The car has a bad control arm and was already pulling and sliding on the road. It may be this strut replacement slightly worsened the pulling but that could be my imagination. I'll be replacing the control arms soon and I think that will fix the pulling problem.
on edit; I replaced the control arm and the Lexus is reportedly driving "like a dream" so it looks like replacing the strut did not mess up the alignment. I will follow up if there is any kind of problem but so far I give this replacement an A+.
Last edited by Puttster; 12-31-17 at 04:32 AM.
12-21-17, 11:54 PM
#11
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