RX - 1st Gen (1999-2003) Discussion topics related to the 1999 -2003 RX300 models

P1354 P0330 oil burning issue

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Old 01-30-18, 11:50 PM
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danno52
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Default P1354 P0330 oil burning issue

Hello all, I just had a friend who dropped off a 2001 Rx300 awd. I plugged it into my obd and got P0330 knock sensor bank 2, and P1354 VVI sensor malfunction.

A little from the owners history with vehicle, bought the vehicle 140000kms and it now has 167000kms, from original owners and was in very nice condition. He was informed about the vsc and how they had it serviced, and if the vsc had returned there is a simple fix if searched online(referring to knock sensor bypass I assume from my researching) and it isn't a major issue. So he has continued to drive it since.

He has regular maintenance performed at the lexus dealership. He just had Lexus perform A FRESH OIL change and asked for a full inspection and received a $7000 cdn dollar quote. From what I was told it was for front/rear valve covers, pretty much all the sensors, spark plugs, timing redone, water pump, all fluids flushed changed, full brake job, and a few other items I'm sure I am forgetting. They had reported the p0330 code as well. All in all the vehicle was running well, he just wanted a check up.

After a week of driving he got some bogging issues which he believed to be caused from the P0330.
After resetting the ecu to drive the vehicle it would run fine which he did for a few days of minimal driving, but it was reset multiple times.
He described it as about 15-20 mins of driving before the engine light would come on and then the vsc.
He would than experience bogging and if he maintained speed it wouldn't bog, he also experienced revving issues, I would assume during the power loss from the knock sensor.

From what I have researched, I figured replace the OCV for the p1354 and knock sensors/harness/bypass etc for the p0330 as well as getting the plugs and of course the valve covers, I also planned to test and clean some of the other sensors as well.

Immediately upon starting it felt fine idled a bit high, upon entering garage blue smoke was apparent. I checked the oil and there was a tad left below the min line. Remember he just had oil changed a few weeks ago. I removed the air intake and there was oil pooled in the hose 3-4 tablespoons and appearing to be coming from the vent line from the valve case.
It appeared most of the oil was going into the one side of the throttle body opening since it is a split design it was taking the easiest route. The throttle body is absolutely full of oil though.

Not sure if the OCV could cause this? I still haven't inspected it yet, I will tomorrow.

It appears like a small amount of water on top of the oil in the intake hose maybe 1/2 teaspoon and there was also a little water in the bottom of the intake box 1 tablespoon maybe.

Any recommendations are greatly appreciated.

Last edited by danno52; 01-31-18 at 12:05 AM.
Old 01-31-18, 09:50 AM
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danno52
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While researching, I have found this oil blow by is primarily caused due to sludge from rear valve covers faulty design and directly affecting the ocv valve. I am just not sure how the oil has made its way to the bank 2 valve cover vac line.

Is it safe to say that there is not oil bypassing rings or other catastrophic failure that has occurred? And that this oil in the intake is just blow by?

Does a code normally come up for the pcv valve?

I will take some pics today.

Old 01-31-18, 10:57 AM
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salimshah
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Originally Posted by danno52
While researching, I have found this oil blow by is primarily caused due to sludge from rear valve covers faulty design and directly affecting the ocv valve. I am just not sure how the oil has made its way to the bank 2 valve cover vac line.

Is it safe to say that there is not oil bypassing rings or other catastrophic failure that has occurred? And that this oil in the intake is just blow by?

Does a code normally come up for the pcv valve?

I will take some pics today.
From roll out to several thousand miles, the original valve cover has not produced oil in the intake. Once past several thousand miles, there are exceptions to the oil burning seen on first gen RX. A design flaw should impact all vehicles and should be there from day1. At the same time we can not rule out that once certain number of drain tubes get clogged (or have reduced flow) the oil accumulation at the top starts rising and with worn rings the increase blowbye we can get into situation of oil in the intake. Crudding inside the valve cover can also reduce gas flow .. till the liquid oil starts getting in there.
Trace your research and the first claims were gen2 valve cover works then now we see gen3 valve cover is the only solution. No one has put in a clean gen1 valve cover back. Secondly we have not seen reports of gen3 valve cover after thousands of miles. Maybe gen3 covers will cause oil rise up after say 100K miles.
If you have an oil burning issue, you should consider gen3 cover.

Salim
Old 01-31-18, 12:52 PM
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danno52
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Thanks for the heads up on the valve cover, I will take your advice and get the 3rd gen valve covers.

Just to confirm I will be needing a new pcv and the connecting hose for this cover, correct?

I am about to place an order for parts later, Here is the list let me know if I am missing anything. Going out to do some work I will check in later.

front/rear valve cover gaskets
spark plug gaskets
intake manifold gaskets
intake mani to throttle body gaskets
Rtv gasket maker-for tabs on valve covers? Seen Toyota tech youtube who did this? New cover doesn't have tabs?

2 knock sensors
harness
bypass hose
spark plugs
ocv valve for P1354 code, testing it, but should be replaced I'm thinking
new pcv for the redesigned valve cover.







Old 01-31-18, 02:29 PM
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danno52
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Ordered the latest valve cover part 11201-0A060 $330.00 CND

I had thought it came with a redesigned pcv but they are saying it's the same part for pcv, I just need new hose 11261-20091.

Can anyone confirm this and let me know if I am missing any parts? I think I got them all.

Old 01-31-18, 02:38 PM
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The 3rd gen uses the metal PCV valve. If yours is plastic, it will not work.
Old 01-31-18, 02:43 PM
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RTV is for the transitions on the engine. Also consider buying replacement bolts for the cover, as they have a special rubber/metal composite gasket. The part number is 90080-10288 and there are nine if I am not mistaken.
Old 01-31-18, 03:45 PM
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danno52
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Originally Posted by Lexmus
The 3rd gen uses the metal PCV valve. If yours is plastic, it will not work.
I asked three different parts guys about this pcv. I finally ordered since they said that it is the only part listed. I will call back I guess?

So is the new hose for pcv required??

I just found pcv aka valve sub assembly ventilation, part 12204-20040 I will confirm this part number with them.

Are the valve cover bolts redesigned for that 3rd gen valve cover as well??

Last edited by danno52; 01-31-18 at 04:12 PM.
Old 01-31-18, 05:51 PM
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Lexmus
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I used those new bolts with the 3rd gen cover when I installed it on my RX.

The metal PCV has threads and is straight. the plastic one sit in a rubber grommet and is L shaped.

I bought the new PCV hose just for convenience since it is a perfect fit. The old one was stiff so I didn't want to try to use it, but you could also use fuel line hose from the auto store.
Old 01-31-18, 07:17 PM
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danno52
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So the new bolt you used was different than this? It is a compression washer, with steel though, not composite.
It was completely loose, maybe 1.5 threads.... Toyota here wants $10 a bolt, seemed excessive until I found the loose one.

What about loctite?

What is your opinion on replacing just the rear valve cover bolts? Since that's $100 for bolts..

Do you know if the bolt considered non reusable in the manual?

I will not get the valve cover in until monday


Attached Thumbnails P1354 P0330 oil burning issue-img_0183.jpg  

Last edited by danno52; 01-31-18 at 07:26 PM.
Old 01-31-18, 09:02 PM
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Lexmus
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Same bolt, I call alternating bonded layers a composite.
Ordering the bolt online is less than $2 each. I ordered from lppparts.com for $1.60 each.
And I only did the rear valve cover, so ordered nine.
Old 02-01-18, 09:35 AM
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danno52
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Ok just confirming, I thought the bolt may have been superseded.

It appears many use the new bolts and/or stack washers. Not sure I am a fan of the stacking.

Not sure what to do...I will try to find these bolts in Canada...
Old 02-02-18, 09:46 AM
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Ordered a set of bolts to be safe for rear valve cover, got most of everything removed and have run into a few problems.

I basically just need to release pressure from fuel system, but the clip on the line I am not familiar with. I have a read it is a c type clip I nee to squeeze two sides and lift off clip then turn fuel line and pull.
Once I do get clip removed, Do I need the fuel line disconnect tool normally used to completely release.

I also have the 02 sensor at back grey clip, tough to reach or see, anyone know how this disconnects?

The power steering connector I still haven't found or I may have gotten it already? Is it against the firewall as well, I thought I seen salmi show a black connector near firewall correct.

Removing the harness clips on timing cover I haven't really tried them yetjust looking for Tips.

Thanks in advance..
Old 02-02-18, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by danno52
Ordered a set of bolts to be safe for rear valve cover, got most of everything removed and have run into a few problems.

I basically just need to release pressure from fuel system, but the clip on the line I am not familiar with. I have a read it is a c type clip I nee to squeeze two sides and lift off clip then turn fuel line and pull.
Once I do get clip removed, Do I need the fuel line disconnect tool normally used to completely release.

I also have the 02 sensor at back grey clip, tough to reach or see, anyone know how this disconnects?

The power steering connector I still haven't found or I may have gotten it already? Is it against the firewall as well, I thought I seen salmi show a black connector near firewall correct.

Removing the harness clips on timing cover I haven't really tried them yetjust looking for Tips.

Thanks in advance..
Once you have the fuel joint U shaped cover removed, it is simply twist and pull on the fuel line. .. more details in Knock Sensor DIY.

Also search for DrCoffee's post on valve cover replacement. Much easier to take an established path than trying to discover on your own. Please add your experience in that thread to help future readers.

Salim
Old 02-02-18, 11:24 AM
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danno52
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First pic is Fuel line connector for future reference, I can't seem to get that one, and the harness drivers side.

Cant get either..


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