1999 Lexus RX300 Oil Control Valve Filter
#1
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I have a 1999 Lexus RX300 and I've ordered both the right and left VVT Solenoids. I was told to clean the Oil Control Valve Filter when replacing the Solenoids. Where is the Oil Control Valve Filter located? I was also told that I should do an engine flush and get an oil change as well after replacing the solenoids. Also what should I clean the Oil Control Valve Filter with?
Last edited by japolock; 02-07-18 at 09:57 PM. Reason: forgot to add the original question I wanted answered
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99RX300PDX (11-05-19)
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Let me know if the filter is not discussed/covered in the DIY.
Brake cleaner should work fine to clean filters. Yo may like to buy then new and they go in one certain way.
Salim
Brake cleaner should work fine to clean filters. Yo may like to buy then new and they go in one certain way.
Salim
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japolock (02-14-18)
#3
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I was just reading up on this yesterday -- I need to work on my daughter's car. There are some good posts on this board about that. Here's a link to a video.
[img]file:///C:/Users/Bob/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtml1/01/clip_image001.jpg[/img]
[img]file:///C:/Users/Bob/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtml1/01/clip_image001.jpg[/img]
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japolock (02-14-18)
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I did both of them on our then 99 RX with 3.0L and somehow I do not recall that filter being that hard to get out. It also looked different, had little prongs that were holding it into the set screw.
Those prongs were made out of some cheap plastic and be careful, they break easily. I did both of them on the engine. Not that much of a job indeed. RX thew some VVT code that I found, was fixed by as simple as cleaning those filters and restoring normal oil flow to solenoids. I also had solenoids out and I think I replaced them with aftermarket one. been a while, not sure I did or not.
Those prongs were made out of some cheap plastic and be careful, they break easily. I did both of them on the engine. Not that much of a job indeed. RX thew some VVT code that I found, was fixed by as simple as cleaning those filters and restoring normal oil flow to solenoids. I also had solenoids out and I think I replaced them with aftermarket one. been a while, not sure I did or not.
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LA4Mead (02-27-18)
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I did both of them on our then 99 RX with 3.0L and somehow I do not recall that filter being that hard to get out. It also looked different, had little prongs that were holding it into the set screw.
Those prongs were made out of some cheap plastic and be careful, they break easily. I did both of them on the engine. Not that much of a job indeed. RX thew some VVT code that I found, was fixed by as simple as cleaning those filters and restoring normal oil flow to solenoids. I also had solenoids out and I think I replaced them with aftermarket one. been a while, not sure I did or not.
Those prongs were made out of some cheap plastic and be careful, they break easily. I did both of them on the engine. Not that much of a job indeed. RX thew some VVT code that I found, was fixed by as simple as cleaning those filters and restoring normal oil flow to solenoids. I also had solenoids out and I think I replaced them with aftermarket one. been a while, not sure I did or not.
Was there oil gel? Have you been regular in oil changes with quality oil?
Salim
#6
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My daughter and I did this last weekend. I found it much easier to reach the filters with the entire airbox taken out. I had to use a breaker bar to loosen the 14mm bolt caps holding the filters in. They are really snug!! The filter screens weren't too dirty, but we did clean them. Torque to reinstall the bolt caps is supposed to be 32 ft-lb. One oil control valve had to be changed recently when she was driving out of state, and we changed the other one along with the filter.
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LA4Mead (02-27-18)
#7
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Hi I also have this problem (2000 es300 with 100k miles does not burn oil and in very good condition)... No problem starting the car and little hesitation or stuttering when idling(750 RPM idle) and driving, however once the car reaches full operating temperature I experience more sever jerking and trouble accelerating. I replaced spark plugs, coils, and still got misfire with codes p0300 p0301 p0303 p0305.
A few days later the car did the same except when I got to full operating temp, extreme jerking and the car did not want to shift to final drive gear. (gear 1 to 3 was fine, once I got on the highway the car didn't want to go into 4th)(revving at 3000 RPM @ 50 MPH and 4000 RPM @ 60 MPH) At this point CHECK ENGINE light was flashing so I got off the highway and drove back home to re-scan the car.
P1349 appeared, from the research I've done and info from you guys, my next step is to replace the 2 VVT-I solenoids (Camshaft timing oil control valve)
as well as the 2 oil control valve filters.
I will update on if this solved the problem.
A few days later the car did the same except when I got to full operating temp, extreme jerking and the car did not want to shift to final drive gear. (gear 1 to 3 was fine, once I got on the highway the car didn't want to go into 4th)(revving at 3000 RPM @ 50 MPH and 4000 RPM @ 60 MPH) At this point CHECK ENGINE light was flashing so I got off the highway and drove back home to re-scan the car.
P1349 appeared, from the research I've done and info from you guys, my next step is to replace the 2 VVT-I solenoids (Camshaft timing oil control valve)
as well as the 2 oil control valve filters.
I will update on if this solved the problem.
Last edited by arozz; 12-05-18 at 10:40 AM.
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You have filter per solenoid. They are really close to the solenoid housing, covered by cap screw. Parts stores have aftermarket solenoids for fraction of the OEM cost and work just fine. Years ago, someone here did a great write up on how to clean those filters to cure solenoid code.
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arozz (12-05-18)
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Salim
#11
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I just wanted to update you guys on how everything went.... Replaced the 2 vvt-i solenoids and filters(filters were not dirty at all... clearly able to see through the metal screen, must have just been the dead solenoid), cleared the codes, and Im very pleased to say that this resolved the problem.
First start-up was a little rough but after a few short seconds the engine was back to normal. the second start-up and idle alone were much more smooth(not the slightest vibration), No more CHECK ENGINE light, I feel much more power and response.
I asked a lot of questions and spoke to many people for advise, never got the answer until I found your Forum. Thank you guys so much I really appreciate your time and help!
First start-up was a little rough but after a few short seconds the engine was back to normal. the second start-up and idle alone were much more smooth(not the slightest vibration), No more CHECK ENGINE light, I feel much more power and response.
I asked a lot of questions and spoke to many people for advise, never got the answer until I found your Forum. Thank you guys so much I really appreciate your time and help!
#13
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Viewed great instructions on replacing the two VVT Solenoid (OCV) , but essentially nothing on where the associated filters are located. Also any suggestions on where to buy these filters?
Last edited by Avogel; 01-21-19 at 05:40 AM.
#14
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The filter retaining bolts are horizontal, on the driver side of the engine block.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...ml#post7575578
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salimshah (12-27-18)