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Put in a little at a time so you don't overfill it. Make sure you warm the vehicle up well and shift through the gears, check and recheck as each addition circulates and warms up. Try not to overfill it, but get fluid in it and see what it will do.
Thanks for that tip, now I am debating should I use the T-IV or Max Life fluid. Does it matter at this point?
Thanks for that tip, now I am debating should I use the T-IV or Max Life fluid. Does it matter at this point?
T-IV is the factory re-labeling of 3309. Either is correct. Maxlife will work, but is a little thinner and changes shift feel slightly. It otherwise works and does no harm. Valvoline Import MV also works fine and is a better match than the thinner Maxlife.
Did you find out what was the issue ? Any update ?
Last post in this thread was back in '22. Thank you for doing the search and posting in an existing thread.
If the scope of the repair involves transmission repair, am I right that it would need a mechanic. If yes, then best is to discuss/tow the vehicle to them.
After inspecting the suv I found a broken cv axle ?Looks like a broken rear (driver side) cv axle. Will this cause the car to not move in any gear ? Also would this cause a transmission leak ? Thanks !
A broken CV axle will definitely not allow you to move [FWD] as it will direct all power to the broken axle.
Please use Parking brakes or chock the wheels when parked.
Picture with a different angle will provide better view of the brake. Once the shaft is not there, the seal will leak some ATF but it should not run dry. When you replace the drive shaft(s), please replace the seals as well. Clips at the end of the shaft need to be replaced too. Get a qt of ATF to top off when seals are pulled out [you should need about 1/4 qt].
You can jack up the front [one or both wheels] and spin the wheel by hand while observing the break. If you lift both front, trans in "N", rear wheels chocked, spin one wheel and observe the other spinning in reverse [when both shafts are in tact].
A broken CV axle will definitely not allow you to move [FWD] as it will direct all power to the broken axle.
Please use Parking brakes or chock the wheels when parked.
Picture with a different angle will provide better view of the brake. Once the shaft is not there, the seal will leak some ATF but it should not run dry. When you replace the drive shaft(s), please replace the seals as well. Clips at the end of the shaft need to be replaced too. Get a qt of ATF to top off when seals are pulled out [you should need about 1/4 qt].
You can jack up the front [one or both wheels] and spin the wheel by hand while observing the break. If you lift both front, trans in "N", rear wheels chocked, spin one wheel and observe the other spinning in reverse [when both shafts are in tact].
With the front intact, I would have expected that the vehicle would move with lots of noise [free rotating rear half shaft] but it could be in a bind and acting as a brake.
Time to call a mobile mechanic or have the vehicle flat bed to a repair facility.
Salim
ps: I was unable to see the video but it is a moot point
09-25-24, 04:48 PM
