Help needed for Bank 1 Sensor 2 replacement
#1
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Help needed for Bank 1 Sensor 2 replacement
This is my wife's 2000 RX300 with 98k miles on the meter. I replaced the FA sensor near the front bumper years ago when it had around 80k miles. Now I got Check Engine code P0136 by an ODBII code reader. According to the code table, this is for a bad bank 1 sensor 2 Oxygen Sensor. With Lexmex's photo in another thread, I was able to locate the sensor.
I have 2 questions:
(1) Some online auto parts stores say this is a downstream oxygen sensor with a replacement Denso 234-4215 Oxygen Sensor. On Amazon ( ) this part looks different from the one on the vehicle.
Needless to say I need experts input about a correct part number.
(2) Also shown in the first photo is the sensor wires go under the body and into the inside floor. I do not see a sensor connection under the front seat or above the floor near the front seat. How do I go about locating the sensor connection inside the vehicle? Do I need to lift the floor carpet? If so, starting from where?
Thank you.
I have 2 questions:
(1) Some online auto parts stores say this is a downstream oxygen sensor with a replacement Denso 234-4215 Oxygen Sensor. On Amazon ( ) this part looks different from the one on the vehicle.
Needless to say I need experts input about a correct part number.
(2) Also shown in the first photo is the sensor wires go under the body and into the inside floor. I do not see a sensor connection under the front seat or above the floor near the front seat. How do I go about locating the sensor connection inside the vehicle? Do I need to lift the floor carpet? If so, starting from where?
Thank you.
#2
#4
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Thank you, maxSteel and Lexmex. Order is placed on Amazon. With Lexmex's DIY photos I think I can handle this replacement job.
While waiting for the part to arrive, would it cause damage by driving it for a short distance? It is my wife's car and she drives to work 5 miles one way.
While waiting for the part to arrive, would it cause damage by driving it for a short distance? It is my wife's car and she drives to work 5 miles one way.
#5
Super Moderator
Thank you, maxSteel and Lexmex. Order is placed on Amazon. With Lexmex's DIY photos I think I can handle this replacement job.
While waiting for the part to arrive, would it cause damage by driving it for a short distance? It is my wife's car and she drives to work 5 miles one way.
While waiting for the part to arrive, would it cause damage by driving it for a short distance? It is my wife's car and she drives to work 5 miles one way.
#6
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
The Oxygen Sensor part came in today and I managed to complete the replacement. Here is a list highlighting my this DIY experience:
(1) It was too tight to access the under-carpet connector from the door side. So I cut the carpet to get to the connector instead.
(2) With the replacement sensor, the protective tube is loose at the sensor end.
After the new part is on the vehicle, I used electric tape to seal it off.
(3) The old gasket was hardened on the seat and I was not able to clear much of it.
So I put a thin layer of muffler sealer on it before the new gasket. And I used high-temp anti-freeze, left over from replacing an AF Sensor years ago, on the 2 nuts.
(4) The rubber cover at the floor end is too large and loose on the plastic tube so I used 2 small zip ties to close the gap.
After a few miles of driving, turn the key off and on again and the Check Engine light is gone.
Thank you.
(1) It was too tight to access the under-carpet connector from the door side. So I cut the carpet to get to the connector instead.
(2) With the replacement sensor, the protective tube is loose at the sensor end.
After the new part is on the vehicle, I used electric tape to seal it off.
(3) The old gasket was hardened on the seat and I was not able to clear much of it.
So I put a thin layer of muffler sealer on it before the new gasket. And I used high-temp anti-freeze, left over from replacing an AF Sensor years ago, on the 2 nuts.
(4) The rubber cover at the floor end is too large and loose on the plastic tube so I used 2 small zip ties to close the gap.
After a few miles of driving, turn the key off and on again and the Check Engine light is gone.
Thank you.
#7
Nice photos. Glad your change went smoothly and successfully. I had a miserable time with those sensor fasteners, they were completely frozen and corroded. I also had a heat shield there that I don't see in your photos that made cutting them very difficult.
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#8
Moderator
hmmm missing heat shield is bad. Without them you end up creating a long term problem which can not be corrected easily.
Salim
Salim
#9
Maybe it's missing in some model years? I don't see it in Lexmex's photos either.
#10
Moderator
I have parted with my first gen RX so I cant check.
My comment is a generic response based on personal experience on carburetor of VW. Took out the metal heat shield, thinking it serves no purpose and it would create an air lock. Put back the seemingly useless part and the engine ket running beyond the 15 minutes it took to heat up.
Salim
My comment is a generic response based on personal experience on carburetor of VW. Took out the metal heat shield, thinking it serves no purpose and it would create an air lock. Put back the seemingly useless part and the engine ket running beyond the 15 minutes it took to heat up.
Salim
#11
Super Moderator
Would love to see photos of the shield, because as someone pointed out there was no shield impeding me. Might have been something different with the models I was not aware of.
#14
Moderator
Makes me wonder if that is a heat shield or a wire/harness protectant. The thing I dont like is that any stuff below is a hook for litter.
Salim
Salim
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