Birddog1

I currently own a 2001 Rx300 with 167,000 My current issue is a knock sensor issue. The first Code that came up was a P0330 code. Knock sensor circuit bank 2. Before I got to replacing that sensor the vehicle started running rough. And I got a valve timing code. Dont currently remember the code. But anyways I replaced both knock sensors and the circuit that comes off of them. I also replaced the vvt solenoids, camshaft position sensors, the coolant temp sensor, and the bypass hose under the intake. All said and done the CEL stayed off for about a week then came back on yesterday. The code that came up today is a P0325. Knock sensor bank 1. The car also wont shift at the 60mph mark carrying about 3750 RPM. Can someone point me at something else that could be the issue. With out me having to shell out another 150 bucks.

Nad1370

Great job on the work.
OEM parts?
It's possible that the knock sensor connector on Bank 1 wasnt fully clicked in and worked itself out.
Or knock sensor not torqued enough that the sensor itself is loose on the block threads.
Hate for you to take it apart again and check your work but i'd start from that.

BTW, if you cleared the code, does the code come right back up?

Birddog1

Everything torqued to spec and everything is OEM Replacement. I checked, double, and triple checked every plug and wire. Plugs are locked in completely with no in and out or side to side play. And yes. Cleared the code before doing the work and the 325 was what came up instead of the original 330 code

Nad1370

What i meant to say is clear the code now.
Start it up at idle and does the light come back on right away?
Or does it take a while of driving to spit that code again (325)?

Its a simple wiring.
Just 1 wire from the knock sensor to the ECU.
I doubt its a bad ECU or a wiring problem ( but not discounting them) since you didnt have the 325 before.
Maybe, just maybe, one on the new knock sensors you have is a faulty one. (bank 1)

Birddog1

no. It doesn't come back right away. It takes about about a mile or so for it to come back on. Doesnt matter with engine temp or anything. I can shut it off and erase the code and let it idle forever and it wont ever come on.

salimshah

Juts throwing this out as a possibility.
There maybe carbon build up or bad timing which is actually causing engine knock.
Another possibility is the coolant is low and the head is becoming excessively hot and as the fuel air get combined you are getting pre-ignition.
You can also run the tank low [dont try to run empty] and add premium gas as that has a tendency to reduce pre-ignition.

Based on milage the knock sensor going bad is a reasonable diagnosis but engine can knock.

Salim

Birddog1

Everything looked good plug wise though I did replace those and checked the coils while I had the plenum off. Coolant is full due to me replacing that bypass hose under the intake. And replacing the coolant temp sensor

Nad1370

Assuming you have ruled out Salim's possibilities, we can also rule out a wiring problem since it doesnt throw it at idle.
My gut feeling is an bad knock sensor in bank 1.
I know its new and OEM but its just coincidence that it threw it after the work was done.
And you had the original code in the other bank.
Without proper diagnostic tools to see waveforms and such, we are just guessing at this point.
Any possibility you can hook up an OBD tester to see freeze frame of the code?

Birddog1

So on the freeze frame data I looked at today everything looked good. Timing was at 10 degrees, no misses anywhere in any cylinder. Everything looks good like I said. When tapping the block with the scan tool hooked up the knock sensors worked correctly according to the scan tool

bobbirkel

Swap wires at ecm an see if code changes to other bank

Birddog1

your telling me to swap wires but if it changes then what?

bobbirkel

If you switch wires the ECM will be reading Bank two where bank one is. If you then get a code for bank 2 then you know you have a faulty knock sensor.

Birddog1

Ok. So I swapped the wires and the code didnt change. I'm at a loss for fixing this thing

bobbirkel

if the pin fit between connector and ecm is good and continuity exists then the ecm is bad

Nad1370

Not questioning your work but can you tell me which wires (color) you swapped on the ECM?
But i agree with Bob that the ECM is bad after the pin swap.