RX - 1st Gen (1999-2003) Discussion topics related to the 1999 -2003 RX300 models

BIG predicament

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Old 01-15-19 | 03:05 PM
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Lexus owners, I have a bit of a problem on my hands. My 2001 RX had a few scratches, so I took it upon myself to repair them. I bought a paint kit online but ordered the wrong color. However, I did not realize this until I had applied it to my car. My car’s original color is Mineral Green Opalescent although this is information from the previous owner and I cannot find the color code anywhere on the vehicle. The color I ordered was Millenium Silver Metallic. To make matters worse, the paint ran down the side of the car and I had to sand it off which left many scratches. I have tried both car polish and the toothpaste method, nothing worked to remove them. I guess my main questions here are 1. Where can I find the color code on my vehicle, 2. Where can I buy OEM paint, and 3. How would I be able to get these scratches off of my car?
Old 01-15-19 | 03:41 PM
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First gen RX are two tone ... 1 color for the side and bumper cladding and another for the body.

I think the body color is listed in the decal by the driver side door. You can call Lexus dealership with your vin number.

Self remedy of paint by a DIYer usually ends up in making things worse.

Proper fix would be to sand down to the deepest scratch and then build up. At times you have to go down to the bare metal and then work your way up

Salim
Old 01-15-19 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by salimshah
First gen RX are two tone ... 1 color for the side and bumper cladding and another for the body.

I think the body color is listed in the decal by the driver side door. You can call Lexus dealership with your vin number.

Self remedy of paint by a DIYer usually ends up in making things worse.

Proper fix would be to sand down to the deepest scratch and then build up. At times you have to go down to the bare metal and then work your way up

Salim
I found the proper paint code and am ordering the correct color. I am not worried about the cladding, just the body which has the majority of the scratches. The main one I am worried about is a sandpaper scratch where I removed some of the paint that spilled over. It’s pretty large but also very shallow. I tried polishing it multiple times but it will not go away. Should I just try to paint over it when the new paint comes?
Old 01-15-19 | 05:13 PM
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Here is the aforementioned scratch. There are some smaller ones above it but they are invisible at this angle
Old 01-15-19 | 05:16 PM
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Have you buffed the scratches with an orbital buffer and polishing compound?
Old 01-15-19 | 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by sktn77a
Have you buffed the scratches with an orbital buffer and polishing compound?
I don’t have access to an orbital buffer, but I have polished it multiple times.
Old 01-15-19 | 07:02 PM
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Metal, primer, pigment (paint), clear coat layer 1-3, wax.

Proper fix is to used fine sanding to remove scratches, hopefully you would not need to go through the paint to get to smooth surface. Then thin layer of paint. Since your current paint has been exposed (sun based fading) and each batch of paint is always different, new paint has to be feathered outwards. Then clear coat at least 2 layers and wax.

If the scratch is just into clear coat, you can sand it down till it is smooth (it will be dull). Then just use wax and buff it till you get shine.

If you want good outcome, get it done professionally or expect to live with mediocre results from DIY. Sorry, but if you are asking for pointers, I think you should go to a professional.

I only use touch paint to protect metal from rust. I don't have the skill to do acceptable paint repair.

Incidentally, you may find it cheaper to buy a used panel of the same color than getting it repainted.

Salim
Old 01-17-19 | 02:52 PM
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The surface is smooth, I cannot feel it rubbing my hand over unless I apply pressure. However I have tried compound, polish, even WD40 just to get it to disappear. It works for a minute or two but then is visible once again. I don’t know how to fix it at this point. Is there something that I’m missing? I even tried applying clearcoat and sanding that down to fill in the cracks to no avail.
Old 01-17-19 | 03:54 PM
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What are you using to sand, If it is sandpaper what is the grit value. Remember you never sand dry, use mild soapy water. The idea is to sand with progressively higher number of sandpaper.

Ignore the commercials that talk about filling the 'cracks'.

Salim
Old 01-17-19 | 04:03 PM
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I have been wet sanding with 2000 grit. I did not sand the damage beforehand however, only after applying the clearcoat over it.
Old 01-17-19 | 04:09 PM
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You then just scuffed the clear coat you applied. Need to go to the bottom of the scratches. Ignore the crack fill. Better yet get a professionals help. Visually the area would look all messed up as the clear coat is removed to get the the bottom of the original scratch. Then the whole area is built up with clear coat (that is why I state ,, ignore the crevice filling). Professional may start with grit lower than 400. The key is knowing when to stop with gross sanding and then going to fine sanding.

Salim
Old 01-17-19 | 04:28 PM
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Where in Maryland are you located?
Old 01-19-19 | 12:17 PM
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Buy the 3M 39008 headlight kit and use the 3000 grit foam disc to wet sand the scratches you caused. You use a standard drill with the kit. Then use the orange foam disc with the rubbing compound that comes with the kit, or buy Meguairs Ultimate Compound (which is what I use) and use that to get rid of the 3000 grit scratches. If you feel it is necessary, you can rinse the orange foam and final polish with Meguiars Ultimate Polish.

There is also the 3M 39071 scratch kit that comes with two foam discs and two types of polishing compounds that also works with a drill, but doesn't have the 3000 grit foam disc, but just a piece of 3000 grit paper.

I use two of the 3M 39008 kits for my headlights and can also work on other body scratches.

Here is a video using the 3M 39071
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