Is it easier to pull engine /trans or just trans?
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Is it easier to pull engine /trans or just trans?
i have a 2000 RX300 with a bad transmission. Is it easier to pull it as a engine/transmission combo, leaving it attached to the subframe with half shafts and all or disconnect transmission with engine left in?
Curious if anyone has done it both ways and which way worked out better.
I am just seeing reinstalling the trans onto the engine while in as a PITA.
Thanks
Curious if anyone has done it both ways and which way worked out better.
I am just seeing reinstalling the trans onto the engine while in as a PITA.
Thanks
#3
Lexus Test Driver
When i did my rear main seal/torque conv seal, I left the engine in the car. (back in 2013)
Took the subframe off.
Snatched the tranny out with the transfer case (AWD) still attached. (trans jack)
I took out the axles to lessen the weight.
And its still one heavy sunmabich. lol
I had access to a lift which makes things easier.
Now if you're doing this on your back with no lift, this will be a struggle but doable.
You'll need a combination of jacks/jack stands and maybe an engine hoist to keep the motor tranny up when you slide the sub out of the way.
Dropping the whole sub with engine/tranny attached would seem extra work for me.
Meaning taking out the engine harness, dealing with the AC system etc...
Use lot of rust penetrant or have a map gas on hand for frozen bolts.
I was expecting bolts to break but i guess i got lucky.
Took the subframe off.
Snatched the tranny out with the transfer case (AWD) still attached. (trans jack)
I took out the axles to lessen the weight.
And its still one heavy sunmabich. lol
I had access to a lift which makes things easier.
Now if you're doing this on your back with no lift, this will be a struggle but doable.
You'll need a combination of jacks/jack stands and maybe an engine hoist to keep the motor tranny up when you slide the sub out of the way.
Dropping the whole sub with engine/tranny attached would seem extra work for me.
Meaning taking out the engine harness, dealing with the AC system etc...
Use lot of rust penetrant or have a map gas on hand for frozen bolts.
I was expecting bolts to break but i guess i got lucky.
#4
when I had my transmission rebuilt they only pulled the trans also had the rear main seal replaced that is a must.
Also if you are going to rebuild the trans use the new hardened planetary gear set.
My guy used Bendix clutches which will last at least 200,000 to 300,000 miles.
I also put in a Hayden trans cooler the flat one that is all that fits and I am using Valvoline Max Life synthetic transmission fluid to make the trans last.
I have always used synthetic fluids for PS and trans and motor nothing wears out very often drove 1986 Cressida 529,000 miles and 1991 LS 400 Lexus 400,000 miles everything was original..
I drop the pan every 25,000 miles which is about 5 quarts change the filter and do a drain and fill later this give you a 10 quart change
Also if you are going to rebuild the trans use the new hardened planetary gear set.
My guy used Bendix clutches which will last at least 200,000 to 300,000 miles.
I also put in a Hayden trans cooler the flat one that is all that fits and I am using Valvoline Max Life synthetic transmission fluid to make the trans last.
I have always used synthetic fluids for PS and trans and motor nothing wears out very often drove 1986 Cressida 529,000 miles and 1991 LS 400 Lexus 400,000 miles everything was original..
I drop the pan every 25,000 miles which is about 5 quarts change the filter and do a drain and fill later this give you a 10 quart change
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