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Rule of thumb is to always go to the last repair done.
Bent dust shield maybe?
Bad axles usually click, not really grind. And they don't just go bad, it takes some time to build up problem to grinding noise.
Grinding, if you used proepr term to describe what you hear, is normally metal RUBBING on metal. While it rotates.
For example, 2nd generation CR-V had TSb issued for grinding noise during tight left turn. It was, actually, R hand side pulley rubbing on tirewell, and entire power train had to be moved over to the L to fix this. But this gives you idea of what grinding is.
So if it comes from the front, wheels need to be removed and hubs and suspension inspected for rubbed off paint or other signs of metal on metal rotation.
Axle would have given you all kinds of noise before it gets to grinding.
Thanks!
Maybe I'm not describing it correctly, but going 40+ you can hear metal-on-metal noise, and when i turn left, the right side is making a much louder noise, and the noise is not as bad when i turn right, but there's still some additional noise versus driving straight.
If going 40+mph sound like a wheel bearing or CV joint going bad. Since the noise is louder when turning left then I would say your right side wheel bearing is going.
I would start by inspection. Raise each side (or both if you can and spin the wheels and turn stern too stern.
CV joints are fairly robust and they will go bad if your boots are ripped. When you raise the vehicle the wheels hang down and compress the boot at the bottom (which is readily viewable) but the rip will split open at the top. Also cv joints are very noticeable when you roll down the windows and just drive slowly in a open parking lot ... in a pattern 8 ... you will hear club, cluck, cluck.
I am with ukrkoz and pay special attention to items that were touched before the onset of an issue. Probability is high that it will be the source of problems.
Other issue is that in a machine there are countless items that can cause metal to metal rub-sound. One does not need to jump t the worst possible scenario. Let the evidence lead you to a conclusion. Hunches can be correct but all must be investigated.
Thanks everyone!
Yes, if I do a figure-8 I'll hear the clunking noise, mainly when turning left (right side axle area). Even when I drive straight there are rubbing noises from metal-to-metal. The issue started when the front was lifted and both tires were replaced, but thinking about it the rubbing noise was noticeable more and more lately, even before the tire change.
I'll inspect and try to figure it out.
My only question is: Does anyone have any experience with 3rd-party CV axle parts from any of the major car parts stores? Is one brand preferred over the others?
My only question is: Does anyone have any experience with 3rd-party CV axle parts from any of the major car parts stores? Is one brand preferred over the others?
Thanks!
I’ve done both front axles on my GX 470. Both inner CV boots had torn and the grease was starting to leak out. I found the genuine Toyota boots, grease and bands on Amazon.com for a very reasonable price compared to the dealer and ordered them. Taking them off wasn’t too hard. Taking the axles apart was a bit messy but it didn’t take too long to get it back together again and back on the vehicle. Now the new boots are working great and no problems. I looked into getting remanufactured or new CV axles but decided to do the boots instead as it was a lot cheaper and I wanted to keep the OEM axles. My advice to you would be to inspect and check for grease leaking out of your CV boots.
Once you start hearing the clicking, I would replace the CV joint and not just the boot. If the wear is minimum the new lube would work, but not worth taking the chance. Just my 2c.
Based on age and milage, I would opt for a reman with good warranty through a local parts store. One cans save some money by internet sale, but I would lean towards the convenience of return. Just make sure they match your vehicle to the part they are selling. There are difference in FWD and AWD.
Finally, took some pictures.
Upon inspection the CV Axle looks in great shape, but there is a similar rod connected to the wheel that has a similar boot like the CV Axle does, and it soaked in grease.
This is front passenger.
Could it be the other axle-looking rod with the boot soaked in grease that is causing the noise? Anything else looks suspicious to you?
Grease all over the boot on the rod to the left of the CV Axle (shown large on the right side) Axle by the wheel
The smaller bellows are for the steering link (tie-rod to the steering-rack). If you loose steering fluid .. usually these boots get filled up from a leak in the rod leading to the steering rack).
It could be the picture, but i see age cracks in the CV boot .. not a split but the web like veining. In my previous post, I mentioned that the observation point is very poor for the CV boot. You need to see the valleys of the boot and they are only observable from the top as the wheel is hanging down. Best angle would be from where the steering pump belt is. Conversely, the third picture of the axle to the wheel joint has excellent view from the below. The grease you see could be the cv joint grease which is flung out due to centrifugal force.
If going 40+mph sound like a wheel bearing or CV joint going bad. Since the noise is louder when turning left then I would say your right side wheel bearing is going.
We have a winner!
I ended breaking one of the lug bolts in half when taking the wheel down, so I ended up taking it to a local shop.
It is the wheel bearing that is done, the axles are ok upon inspection.
Once I get the car back I'll clean the area on the weekend with a pressure washer, and then keep an eye on it.
I ended breaking one of the lug bolts in half when taking the wheel down, so I ended up taking it to a local shop.
It is the wheel bearing that is done, the axles are ok upon inspection.
Once I get the car back I'll clean the area on the weekend with a pressure washer, and then keep an eye on it.
Thanks everyone for the great suggestions!
Good that you found the culprit. The studs can be pushed out and a new one can be pushed in.
I would suggest to purchase a quality bearing. Timkin, Koyo are good brands. Please be gentle when you clean the affected area. Aggressive cleaning can end up making things worse.
Better take a closer look (look up) it appears that you might have a power steering pump that is leaking onto the steering rack. The power steering pump is on the right side and your picture is the passenger side of the car. Do you need to add ps fluid?
06-12-19, 09:54 AM
Griding noise when turning
