Rear door hatch is stuck closed
#1
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Rear door hatch is stuck closed
I was using a bungee cord with plastic coated hooks between the hatch lock and the lock striker to move a piece of lumber. Anyhow, I noticed that part of the plastic from the bungee cord hook chipped off and fell into the hatch lock. Later, I fully closed the hatch, but now the hatch lock remains stuck in the lock position. I remove almost everything from the trunk area to get to the lock: plastic panels, carpet panels, trim pieces, spare tire, etc. I then tried the following, but nothing allowed the hatch lock to disengage:
* I moved the cable/rod from the trunk lock to the open position and either had someone pull up on the latch handle or pull up the cable/rod myself from the inside of the trunk
* I tried the above while trying to move the lock into the open position with a flat head screwdriver (This worked on a similar car I have, which is a 2004 highlander when the lock was not engaged on the striker)
* I unbolted the hatch lock from the hatch to allow more access with a screwdriver.
Currently, I got the trunk "open" (except its being held closed with the locks cables); however, the hatch lock is still locked onto the striker like a padlock.
*** Any advice on how to free the lock from the striker plate?
(I ordered a new lock assembly, Lexus Part No. 69350-48010, but I don't know how I'm going to install it with the old part in place. I was thinking of sawing it off or bashing it with a hammer, but was wondering if there are other solutions.
* I moved the cable/rod from the trunk lock to the open position and either had someone pull up on the latch handle or pull up the cable/rod myself from the inside of the trunk
* I tried the above while trying to move the lock into the open position with a flat head screwdriver (This worked on a similar car I have, which is a 2004 highlander when the lock was not engaged on the striker)
* I unbolted the hatch lock from the hatch to allow more access with a screwdriver.
Currently, I got the trunk "open" (except its being held closed with the locks cables); however, the hatch lock is still locked onto the striker like a padlock.
*** Any advice on how to free the lock from the striker plate?
(I ordered a new lock assembly, Lexus Part No. 69350-48010, but I don't know how I'm going to install it with the old part in place. I was thinking of sawing it off or bashing it with a hammer, but was wondering if there are other solutions.
Last edited by gregmacdx; 08-28-19 at 09:24 AM.
#2
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I'm gonna have a guy look at it Friday, who did previous work on the car. I received the new handle (which I probably don't need) and the new lock mechanism. If he can't figure it out, I'll see if he can cut the lock off.
Does anyone know if the hook assembly, which is attached to the car and sometimes the lock, can be disassembled from underneath the car? (It looks like some screw heads on top, but I can't access them, because the lock is still stuck closed.
Any suggestions?
Does anyone know if the hook assembly, which is attached to the car and sometimes the lock, can be disassembled from underneath the car? (It looks like some screw heads on top, but I can't access them, because the lock is still stuck closed.
Any suggestions?
Last edited by gregmacdx; 09-04-19 at 01:27 PM. Reason: update
#3
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I'm gonna have a guy look at it Friday, who did previous work on the car. I received the new handle (which I probably don't need) and the new lock mechanism. If he can't figure it out, I'll see if he can cut the lock off.
Does anyone know if the hook assembly, which is attached to the car and sometimes the lock, can be disassembled from underneath the car? (It looks like some screw heads on top, but I can't access them, because the lock is still stuck closed.
Any suggestions?
Does anyone know if the hook assembly, which is attached to the car and sometimes the lock, can be disassembled from underneath the car? (It looks like some screw heads on top, but I can't access them, because the lock is still stuck closed.
Any suggestions?
#5
Moderator
I would suggest finesse over force.
I think that the Inside bottom panel can be pulled off with the hatch closed. There are places where there is no metal.
The outer skin is also not very strong.
Salim
I think that the Inside bottom panel can be pulled off with the hatch closed. There are places where there is no metal.
The outer skin is also not very strong.
Salim
#6
Driver School Candidate
I was using a bungee cord with plastic coated hooks between the hatch lock and the lock striker to move a piece of lumber. Anyhow, I noticed that part of the plastic from the bungee cord hook chipped off and fell into the hatch lock. Later, I fully closed the hatch, but now the hatch lock remains stuck in the lock position. I remove almost everything from the trunk area to get to the lock: plastic panels, carpet panels, trim pieces, spare tire, etc. I then tried the following, but nothing allowed the hatch lock to disengage:
* I moved the cable/rod from the trunk lock to the open position and either had someone pull up on the latch handle or pull up the cable/rod myself from the inside of the trunk
* I tried the above while trying to move the lock into the open position with a flat head screwdriver (This worked on a similar car I have, which is a 2004 highlander when the lock was not engaged on the striker)
* I unbolted the hatch lock from the hatch to allow more access with a screwdriver.
Currently, I got the trunk "open" (except its being held closed with the locks cables); however, the hatch lock is still locked onto the striker like a padlock.
*** Any advice on how to free the lock from the striker plate?
(I ordered a new lock assembly, Lexus Part No. 69350-48010, but I don't know how I'm going to install it with the old part in place. I was thinking of sawing it off or bashing it with a hammer, but was wondering if there are other solutions.
* I moved the cable/rod from the trunk lock to the open position and either had someone pull up on the latch handle or pull up the cable/rod myself from the inside of the trunk
* I tried the above while trying to move the lock into the open position with a flat head screwdriver (This worked on a similar car I have, which is a 2004 highlander when the lock was not engaged on the striker)
* I unbolted the hatch lock from the hatch to allow more access with a screwdriver.
Currently, I got the trunk "open" (except its being held closed with the locks cables); however, the hatch lock is still locked onto the striker like a padlock.
*** Any advice on how to free the lock from the striker plate?
(I ordered a new lock assembly, Lexus Part No. 69350-48010, but I don't know how I'm going to install it with the old part in place. I was thinking of sawing it off or bashing it with a hammer, but was wondering if there are other solutions.
#7
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Thanks for all of the responses. My mechanic was able to cut off the old lock and installed the new one I bought.
I think that the small piece of plastic from the bungee cord jammed the lock and prevented it from opening. Anyhow, a new lock was only $80, and for $50 he sawed off the old lock and installed the new one. So it only cost me $130 plus $20 for some thin wrenches I bought at the local home improvement store to disconnect the lock mechanism from the hatch from inside the car, when it was still locked shut.
Anyhow, I probably saved myself some money by bringing in my own part, removing all of the trim pieces, spare tire, etc. from the rear of the car, and unbolting the lock mechanism, which caused the hatch to open about an inch, which was just enough to get a saw in there.
I think that the small piece of plastic from the bungee cord jammed the lock and prevented it from opening. Anyhow, a new lock was only $80, and for $50 he sawed off the old lock and installed the new one. So it only cost me $130 plus $20 for some thin wrenches I bought at the local home improvement store to disconnect the lock mechanism from the hatch from inside the car, when it was still locked shut.
Anyhow, I probably saved myself some money by bringing in my own part, removing all of the trim pieces, spare tire, etc. from the rear of the car, and unbolting the lock mechanism, which caused the hatch to open about an inch, which was just enough to get a saw in there.
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