Dome light circuit schematic
09-19-19, 04:24 PM
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Dome light circuit schematic
Anyone know where I can find schematics for a '99?
I'm getting 0.8 amp draw with the key out; 0.44 amp with ECU-B fuse out; 0.35 amp with dome fuse out; maybe 10 mA with both out. Curiously, the current sometimes jumps to 1.39 amps when the fuses are re-installed which then drops down to 0.8 in half a minute. If only the dome light fuse is plugged in with the ECU-B out, the current will sometimes start at 1.03 amp then drop to 0.44 amp.
I've unplugged: dome lights, everything in the center console including seat warmer switches, plugs to the shifter, display, radio. I unplugged both air damper controls behind the glove box.
I don't know what else is in the dome light circuit.
Another curious observation: While spending hours disassembling the dash and troubleshooting, the light ring around the ignition key hole was on the whole time. I had the driver door fuse pulled so I wouldn't drain the battery so much and to make the "math" easier. After putting some of the stuff back together, including the door fuse, but not the radio/display, the light ring went off and it wouldn't come back on--key in or out?
I'm getting 0.8 amp draw with the key out; 0.44 amp with ECU-B fuse out; 0.35 amp with dome fuse out; maybe 10 mA with both out. Curiously, the current sometimes jumps to 1.39 amps when the fuses are re-installed which then drops down to 0.8 in half a minute. If only the dome light fuse is plugged in with the ECU-B out, the current will sometimes start at 1.03 amp then drop to 0.44 amp.
I've unplugged: dome lights, everything in the center console including seat warmer switches, plugs to the shifter, display, radio. I unplugged both air damper controls behind the glove box.
I don't know what else is in the dome light circuit.
Another curious observation: While spending hours disassembling the dash and troubleshooting, the light ring around the ignition key hole was on the whole time. I had the driver door fuse pulled so I wouldn't drain the battery so much and to make the "math" easier. After putting some of the stuff back together, including the door fuse, but not the radio/display, the light ring went off and it wouldn't come back on--key in or out?
09-19-19, 09:46 PM
#2
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Sorry, I dont have a schematic to share. There is bit of information that might be helpful to you, search on parasitic draw.
Salim
Salim
09-21-19, 09:07 AM
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I found the schematic link on a previous thread. Big help!
There are 3 (not 2) HVAC servos. All good.
There is an ECU for each door except tailgate. They work with the body ECU. It seems the ECU-B has a timer that keeps the ECU's going for a minute after a door is opened or the battery is reconnected. I thought removing/unplugging the door lights would allow me to troubleshoot with door(s) open. WRONG!
When I closed all doors and waited long enough (about a minute) the battery current dropped down to the mA range. Apparently everything is working as designed. Egg on my face.
[the ignition glow ring stayed on because the doors were open. It went off when I pulled the dome fuse to "save the battery"]
There are 3 (not 2) HVAC servos. All good.
There is an ECU for each door except tailgate. They work with the body ECU. It seems the ECU-B has a timer that keeps the ECU's going for a minute after a door is opened or the battery is reconnected. I thought removing/unplugging the door lights would allow me to troubleshoot with door(s) open. WRONG!
When I closed all doors and waited long enough (about a minute) the battery current dropped down to the mA range. Apparently everything is working as designed. Egg on my face.
[the ignition glow ring stayed on because the doors were open. It went off when I pulled the dome fuse to "save the battery"]
09-21-19, 02:31 PM
#4
Moderator
I found the schematic link on a previous thread. Big help!
There are 3 (not 2) HVAC servos. All good.
There is an ECU for each door except tailgate. They work with the body ECU. It seems the ECU-B has a timer that keeps the ECU's going for a minute after a door is opened or the battery is reconnected. I thought removing/unplugging the door lights would allow me to troubleshoot with door(s) open. WRONG!
When I closed all doors and waited long enough (about a minute) the battery current dropped down to the mA range. Apparently everything is working as designed. Egg on my face.
[the ignition glow ring stayed on because the doors were open. It went off when I pulled the dome fuse to "save the battery"]
There are 3 (not 2) HVAC servos. All good.
There is an ECU for each door except tailgate. They work with the body ECU. It seems the ECU-B has a timer that keeps the ECU's going for a minute after a door is opened or the battery is reconnected. I thought removing/unplugging the door lights would allow me to troubleshoot with door(s) open. WRONG!
When I closed all doors and waited long enough (about a minute) the battery current dropped down to the mA range. Apparently everything is working as designed. Egg on my face.
[the ignition glow ring stayed on because the doors were open. It went off when I pulled the dome fuse to "save the battery"]
Dont be too hard on yourself. I have learnt more from my mistakes than getting it right the first time, as in that case I simply move on instead of pondering on it.
Salim
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