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I am going by memory here ..
For timing belt replacement stud does not need to be removed and I dont recall jacking the engine up.
If you want to replace the water pump, then the stud needs to be removed. There is enough unthreaded stud area as the center part has been removed for TB replacement. I did not raise the engine block .. so that might be another way to tackle it.
Stud removal: The star head on the stud is pretty much useless to undo the stud [only good enough to tighten once the stud is free]. You can use double nut technique. The problem with double nut is that the point of force is further away from the stuck portion and any force applied tends to bend the stud, I prefer using stud removal tool which squeezes roughly 1/2" of surface and can be positioned closer to the engine block, thus reducing the bending force. As I mentioned before there is plenty of unthreaded portion on the stud. It has not happened to me, but I am sure there are cases where the stud would shear off.
Once the stud is broken the repair is necessary. In this case, we are at that stage.
Salim
I talked to Eddie this morning. He didn't think jacking up the engine would provide enough space to get it out, but he humored me and said he'd give it a shot. I'll be glad when this is over with!
I talked to Eddie this morning. He didn't think jacking up the engine would provide enough space to get it out, but he humored me and said he'd give it a shot. I'll be glad when this is over with!
I just changed my water pump on 2000 RX300. Like what was mentioned, I did not have to remove the water pump studs. You have to loosen the bolt on the front motor mount so the engine can be lifted high enough so the water pump can slide out and clear the frame. Make sure you put a piece of wood between the floor jack and the oil pan to prevent damaging the oil pan.
If you try to remove the stud using an E8 torx, it will strip the stud.
I'm so grateful for this thread and the help & tips & videos from everyone cuz perfect timing for me.
Just did my Tbelt/Water Pump/Seals today and had same issue- studs seized up in there.
Tried stud extractor and torqued until they felt like getting ready to snap so I jacked up the motor and water pump came out no probs.
Mine is the little newer 3MZFE so can confirm it works on this one too.
Well, the water pump is off. He left the stubborn stud where it was. The timing belt looked pretty good, but was a bit loose due to stretching. Hopefully everything progresses smoothly from here. Thanks to everyone for letting us know that the pump could be removed without removing the stud. You guys rock!
Well, the water pump is off. He left the stubborn stud where it was. The timing belt looked pretty good, but was a bit loose due to stretching. Hopefully everything progresses smoothly from here. Thanks to everyone for letting us know that the pump could be removed without removing the stud. You guys rock!
Hmm! The tensioner should not only pick the impulse change, but also the stretch. I would suggest replacing the tensioner if you suspect the belt was loose. Also examine other components like the idler (which is lubed for life, ha ha). Look for change in the color (shade of blue). Idlers and tensioner are usually not part of the TB change, but I have always changed them.
Hmm! The tensioner should not only pick the impulse change, but also the stretch. I would suggest replacing the tensioner if you suspect the belt was loose. Also examine other components like the idler (which is lubed for life, ha ha). Look for change in the color (shade of blue). Idlers and tensioner are usually not part of the TB change, but I have always changed them.
Salim
Thanks for the advice! I really appreciate your help!
Here's what's being replaced in the timing belt portion of this job.
1 x Toyota Water Pump & Gasket（16100-20985/WPT-057）
1 x Toyota Timing Belt（13568-09080 /13568-29025/13568-20020/13568-YZZ10）
1 x koyo Tensioner（13505-20010）
1 x koyo Idler（13503-62030/ 13503-0A010 ）
1 x Toyota Hydraulic Tensioner（13540-20021）
2 x Toyota Cam Seals（90311-38034 ）
1 x Toyota Crank Seal（90311-40022/ 90311-40013）
1 x Toyota Steering Belt（ 99366-21040-83 / 90916-02401 / 99364-21040 ）
1 x Toyota Thermostat & Gasket（90916-03129）
1 x Toyota Drive Belt（90080-91088-83 / 99364-80880 ）
Thanks for the advice! I really appreciate your help!
Here's what's being replaced in the timing belt portion of this job.
1 x Toyota Water Pump & Gasket（16100-20985/WPT-057）
1 x Toyota Timing Belt（13568-09080 /13568-29025/13568-20020/13568-YZZ10）
1 x koyo Tensioner（13505-20010）
1 x koyo Idler（13503-62030/ 13503-0A010 ）
1 x Toyota Hydraulic Tensioner（13540-20021）
2 x Toyota Cam Seals（90311-38034 ）
1 x Toyota Crank Seal（90311-40022/ 90311-40013）
1 x Toyota Steering Belt（ 99366-21040-83 / 90916-02401 / 99364-21040 ）
1 x Toyota Thermostat & Gasket（90916-03129）
1 x Toyota Drive Belt（90080-91088-83 / 99364-80880 ）
1x Oil Filter（90915-YZZD2 /90915-YZZD1）
Thanks again!
Pretty comprehensive list. I would suggest drain and fill of coolant as well .. that is if it has not been replaced in 2yrs. Normally I would replace every third or 4th year (or there ab out), but since you will loose 1/4 and will be being a conc jug, just go ahead replace it.
Pretty comprehensive list. I would suggest drain and fill of coolant as well .. that is if it has not been replaced in 2yrs. Normally I would replace every third or 4th year (or there ab out), but since you will loose 1/4 and will be being a conc jug, just go ahead replace it.
Salim
A drain and fill is on the list for sure. Looking back at my invoices, have I missed anything?
Just got a call from my mechanic Eddie. He said that the rear valve cover already has a screw in pcv valve installed. His question to me was whether or not to install the updated valve cover that I just bought? Does the screw in pcv that is already there indicate someone had installed the updated valve cover in the past? Hoping for a quick answer as he is waiting on my decision. Thanks!!
You already paid for for the valve cover. I would suggest ask he mechanic to study the baffle [passage leading to pcv].
First gen early models had snug fit and later switched to screw-in. You can not use the screw type PCV to make the distinction.
Members saw an improvement with gen2 cover and the last discussion I have seen is that Gen3 cover is yet better [both have threaded PCV]. There are pictures showing the differences.
Personally, I had no oil burning issue with push in type valve cover. But if the gen3 cover helps why not.
Here's comparison pics of the valve cover that was on the vehicle when I purchased it, and the valve cover I just bought to replace it. Hope this helps someone.
03-27-20, 10:28 AM
