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I thought I'd just start a new thread about the things that are being done to refresh our 2002 RX300 with 153,000 miles. It's a nice car and we intend to keep this for a long long long time.
Took it to my mechanic so he could do a timing belt job as I couldn't find any evidence of it being done by previous owners. The first thing to cause a problem is a stud that goes through the water pump and beyond, doesn't want to come out. It's to the left in the picture and has a nut welded to it to get a better bite on it. So he's lowering the rack and the cradle to allow everything to drop about 6 inches so he can drill it out.
Eddie is one that wants everything to be right and do preventative things so I'm not running back with problems all the time. So it starts with Eddie and my wish list and continues from there.
I always thought the water pump will come out leaving studs in by jacking up engine for clearance but don't know might be too tight.
Getting ready to do mine so hope studs come out easy for me.
No need to take the studs out.
As Margate mentioned, clearance can be made by jacking up the motor and find the angle it'll clear out.
1/2"-1" or so should be sufficient.
Some use a block of wood under neath the oil pan and jack it up that way.
I usually just stick a long pry bar between the top of the cross member and oil pan on the pass side.
Then step on it with my left foot to pry it up and work that bracket mount or water pump off the stud.
Might need to take the 19mm nut off the lower pass mount if more clearance is needed.
Works with 1st/2nd GEN RX even on ES300/330 models.
No need to take the studs out.
As Margate mentioned, clearance can be made by jacking up the motor and find the angle it'll clear out.
1/2"-1" or so should be sufficient.
Some use a block of wood under neath the oil pan and jack it up that way.
I usually just stick a long pry bar between the top of the cross member and oil pan on the pass side.
Then step on it with my left foot to pry it up and work that bracket mount or water pump off the stud.
Might need to take the 19mm nut off the lower pass mount if more clearance is needed.
Works with 1st/2nd GEN RX even on ES300/330 models.
Good to know. I've never done this job. I don't really want to either.
I once did something similar on a Hyundai though while working on the transmission. Not enough clearance to remove the end plate.
I disconnected the motor mounts and jacked up one side of the engine with a block of wood under the oil pan.
Side I needed tilted down enough to get it done.
I am going by memory here ..
For timing belt replacement stud does not need to be removed and I dont recall jacking the engine up.
If you want to replace the water pump, then the stud needs to be removed. There is enough unthreaded stud area as the center part has been removed for TB replacement. I did not raise the engine block .. so that might be another way to tackle it.
Stud removal: The star head on the stud is pretty much useless to undo the stud [only good enough to tighten once the stud is free]. You can use double nut technique. The problem with double nut is that the point of force is further away from the stuck portion and any force applied tends to bend the stud, I prefer using stud removal tool which squeezes roughly 1/2" of surface and can be positioned closer to the engine block, thus reducing the bending force. As I mentioned before there is plenty of unthreaded portion on the stud. It has not happened to me, but I am sure there are cases where the stud would shear off.
Once the stud is broken the repair is necessary. In this case, we are at that stage.
03-26-20, 06:37 AM
From Timing Belt Job To While You're In There
