Introduction
11-06-21, 11:49 AM
#1
8th Gear
Thread Starter
Introduction
Hello,
I just wanted to say hello, and thanks!
I've mostly been lurking, but I've learned a lot from this forum.
We picked up a 2003 RX300 from my neighbor for my daughter a couple of years ago.
It needed struts, and tires, and A/C actuators, all of which I studied up on here first.
It took me forever to figure out the A/C drain was clogged causing the floor to get wet (I kept thinking sunroof drains).
But it turned out to be a really great car.
In fact, we were rarely driving due to lock downs and working/schooling from home, and it turned out to be everyone's go to for running errands around town and short trips.
So much so that when she left for school and took it with her this fall, my wife wanted another one.
I made the mistake of telling her not to worry about mileage as long as the paint and interior were good, and sure enough she found one that looked pretty good with 235,000 miles on it :-).
But the price wasn't too bad for this market and it didn't seem to have any violent history, so away we went.
I've already done the timing belt, water pump, cam and crank seals, spark plugs, and a power steering flush.
For what it's worth the belt and pump looked great for having close to 145,000 miles on them. The plugs not so much, but it did still run smooth.
The previous owner clearly had a dog, but after a deep clean of the interior, it's not as obvious :-).
The A/C responded well to actuator cleaning and a new filter.
I also added a USA Spec Bluetooth adapter as I had in my daughter's car.
Next up is new KYB's all around, fresh brakes, a tranny flush, and a couple more rounds of leather conditioner, but so far so good.
The one issue I'm having is I only got one key. I picked up a spare on ebay and was able to get it cut locally, but I can't get the ECU to recognize it.
My one key lacks the master side cuts, and while it's not dark black it's not light gray either, but I had assumed the security light going out meant maybe it had been programmed as a master.
I'm starting to doubt that as the recommended procedures for getting the ECU to recognize it for starting do not seem to be working.
Is there any sure-fire way to tell if it's a master key or not?
Thanks,
Casey
I just wanted to say hello, and thanks!
I've mostly been lurking, but I've learned a lot from this forum.
We picked up a 2003 RX300 from my neighbor for my daughter a couple of years ago.
It needed struts, and tires, and A/C actuators, all of which I studied up on here first.
It took me forever to figure out the A/C drain was clogged causing the floor to get wet (I kept thinking sunroof drains).
But it turned out to be a really great car.
In fact, we were rarely driving due to lock downs and working/schooling from home, and it turned out to be everyone's go to for running errands around town and short trips.
So much so that when she left for school and took it with her this fall, my wife wanted another one.
I made the mistake of telling her not to worry about mileage as long as the paint and interior were good, and sure enough she found one that looked pretty good with 235,000 miles on it :-).
But the price wasn't too bad for this market and it didn't seem to have any violent history, so away we went.
I've already done the timing belt, water pump, cam and crank seals, spark plugs, and a power steering flush.
For what it's worth the belt and pump looked great for having close to 145,000 miles on them. The plugs not so much, but it did still run smooth.
The previous owner clearly had a dog, but after a deep clean of the interior, it's not as obvious :-).
The A/C responded well to actuator cleaning and a new filter.
I also added a USA Spec Bluetooth adapter as I had in my daughter's car.
Next up is new KYB's all around, fresh brakes, a tranny flush, and a couple more rounds of leather conditioner, but so far so good.
The one issue I'm having is I only got one key. I picked up a spare on ebay and was able to get it cut locally, but I can't get the ECU to recognize it.
My one key lacks the master side cuts, and while it's not dark black it's not light gray either, but I had assumed the security light going out meant maybe it had been programmed as a master.
I'm starting to doubt that as the recommended procedures for getting the ECU to recognize it for starting do not seem to be working.
Is there any sure-fire way to tell if it's a master key or not?
Thanks,
Casey
Last edited by CSwain; 11-06-21 at 12:28 PM.
11-06-21, 12:52 PM
#2
Moderator
Welcome to Club Lexus. Hopefully some one can answer your question.
Salim
Salim
11-06-21, 08:00 PM
#3
Lexus Test Driver
The one issue I'm having is I only got one key. I picked up a spare on ebay and was able to get it cut locally, but I can't get the ECU to recognize it.
My one key lacks the master side cuts, and while it's not dark black it's not light gray either, but I had assumed the security light going out meant maybe it had been programmed as a master.
I'm starting to doubt that as the recommended procedures for getting the ECU to recognize it for starting do not seem to be working.
Is there any sure-fire way to tell if it's a master key or not?
Thanks,
Casey
My one key lacks the master side cuts, and while it's not dark black it's not light gray either, but I had assumed the security light going out meant maybe it had been programmed as a master.
I'm starting to doubt that as the recommended procedures for getting the ECU to recognize it for starting do not seem to be working.
Is there any sure-fire way to tell if it's a master key or not?
Thanks,
Casey
It sounds like it got a lot of much needed love with many new parts and work done.
There is a procedure to pair it and I'm sure I have seen it talked about in here but I don't remember exactly where.
A couple of years ago I bought a spare ECM for my car and paired my keys and with the help of another member, it was easy.
However this is on an RX330 so I am not sure if it will work on an RX300 but here is the link anyway but anyone who tries this plz do at your own risk: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...preciated.html
Hopefully others will chime in because I'm not sure if it will work on the RX300 but I know there is a procedure in the RX300 manual but I would have to find it.
Last edited by Margate330; 11-06-21 at 08:15 PM.
11-07-21, 08:35 AM
#4
Advanced
How to Program New Remote Keyless Entry Key
1. Enter vehicle and close all doors (make sure all doors are locked, except the driver’s door)
2. Open driver’s door
3. Insert new key into ignition and remove
4. Lock and unlock driver’s door lock switch 5 times
5. Close and open driver’s door
6. Cycle driver’s door lock switch 5 more times
7. Insert key into ignition
8. Turn key to on, then back to off and remove key (doors will cycle from lock to unlock one time)
9. Hold lock and unlock buttons on remote briefly
10. Press and hold lock button on remote for about 2 seconds (door locks will cycle to indicate success)
11. Close driver’s door to EXIT programming mode
1. Enter vehicle and close all doors (make sure all doors are locked, except the driver’s door)
2. Open driver’s door
3. Insert new key into ignition and remove
4. Lock and unlock driver’s door lock switch 5 times
5. Close and open driver’s door
6. Cycle driver’s door lock switch 5 more times
7. Insert key into ignition
8. Turn key to on, then back to off and remove key (doors will cycle from lock to unlock one time)
9. Hold lock and unlock buttons on remote briefly
10. Press and hold lock button on remote for about 2 seconds (door locks will cycle to indicate success)
11. Close driver’s door to EXIT programming mode
The following users liked this post:
Margate330 (11-07-21)
11-07-21, 04:19 PM
#5
Lexus Test Driver
How to Program New Remote Keyless Entry Key
1. Enter vehicle and close all doors (make sure all doors are locked, except the driver’s door)
2. Open driver’s door
3. Insert new key into ignition and remove
4. Lock and unlock driver’s door lock switch 5 times
5. Close and open driver’s door
6. Cycle driver’s door lock switch 5 more times
7. Insert key into ignition
8. Turn key to on, then back to off and remove key (doors will cycle from lock to unlock one time)
9. Hold lock and unlock buttons on remote briefly
10. Press and hold lock button on remote for about 2 seconds (door locks will cycle to indicate success)
11. Close driver’s door to EXIT programming mode
1. Enter vehicle and close all doors (make sure all doors are locked, except the driver’s door)
2. Open driver’s door
3. Insert new key into ignition and remove
4. Lock and unlock driver’s door lock switch 5 times
5. Close and open driver’s door
6. Cycle driver’s door lock switch 5 more times
7. Insert key into ignition
8. Turn key to on, then back to off and remove key (doors will cycle from lock to unlock one time)
9. Hold lock and unlock buttons on remote briefly
10. Press and hold lock button on remote for about 2 seconds (door locks will cycle to indicate success)
11. Close driver’s door to EXIT programming mode
Someday I will try this on the RX330 and see if it works on the newer model too.
Ths list sounds like a secret handshake or something only the car understands. lol
The following users liked this post:
RXnVA (11-10-21)
11-07-21, 06:22 PM
#6
a master key can open the glove box, any other key cannot, so if the key you have opens the glove box, you can use it to "clone" other keys.
there are 2 separate things to program ....one way programs the key to start the car. After that is done, there is a separate programming for the remote and the locks.
if you search, there is a sticky for both programming procedures
there are 2 separate things to program ....one way programs the key to start the car. After that is done, there is a separate programming for the remote and the locks.
if you search, there is a sticky for both programming procedures
11-08-21, 06:17 AM
#7
Moderator
a master key can open the glove box, any other key cannot, so if the key you have opens the glove box, you can use it to "clone" other keys.
there are 2 separate things to program ....one way programs the key to start the car. After that is done, there is a separate programming for the remote and the locks.
if you search, there is a sticky for both programming procedures
there are 2 separate things to program ....one way programs the key to start the car. After that is done, there is a separate programming for the remote and the locks.
if you search, there is a sticky for both programming procedures
Once some one starts dealing with additional keys, the concept of Master vs Valet key gets muddled.
Technically a Valet key has a different Key blade personalization and the magnetic signature is registered [in ECU] as not-master/Valet [Registration of copies cant be done]
Master can operate all locks (key blade personalization) as well as its magnetic signature is registered as Master. [Master key is needed to register copies]
With three variables [key-blade personalization, Magnetic signature (un-registerd, registered as Master, registered as Valet)] you can have loads of fun.
Salim
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RXnVA (11-10-21)
Trending Topics
11-21-21, 02:34 PM
#8
8th Gear
Thread Starter
Yeah, I'm thinking I've got a valet key.
I thought the security light went out "immediately", somewhere I read the delay might be as little as 2 seconds, so I'm not sure.
When my daughter comes home from thanksgiving I'll check the timing out side by side, I'm sure we have a Master for hers.
At least I have a physical copy of the key if someone locks it in the car. I'll have to figure out the ECU reset thing.
I read somewhere the factory connect software won't do anything without a "passcode" if you don't have a master.
I didn't do the Thermostat when I did the timing end...now it's throwing a code that might be thermostat (cooler than it should be, forgot the code number).
I cleared it once and reseated the temperature sender connectors, but my wife said the gage was still acting a little funny.
So, that's the fun project for the day, just for insurance. Not convinced I won't be back for a sensor.
I thought the security light went out "immediately", somewhere I read the delay might be as little as 2 seconds, so I'm not sure.
When my daughter comes home from thanksgiving I'll check the timing out side by side, I'm sure we have a Master for hers.
At least I have a physical copy of the key if someone locks it in the car. I'll have to figure out the ECU reset thing.
I read somewhere the factory connect software won't do anything without a "passcode" if you don't have a master.
I didn't do the Thermostat when I did the timing end...now it's throwing a code that might be thermostat (cooler than it should be, forgot the code number).
I cleared it once and reseated the temperature sender connectors, but my wife said the gage was still acting a little funny.
So, that's the fun project for the day, just for insurance. Not convinced I won't be back for a sensor.
11-27-21, 04:16 PM
#9
8th Gear
Thread Starter
Figured I'd provide an update around part fitment and my way of looking at repairs.
I went ahead and replaced the thermostat, it didn't look too bad, but I haven't tested it.
The new one was a recommended Toyota part, but looks a little different, go figure.
I had just replaced the coolant, so I drained it through a paint filter and reused it.
It came out clean, so the internal passages aren't all mucked up.
Started working on paint correction while I had it in the garage, there are ~30 rock chips of various sizes on the front, but they're coming along nicely.
Got three stage touch up paint, and got the first coat on all the prep work.
Also started on the front end. Replaced the passenger strut, lower rubber, and bumper.
The top rubber was in pretty good shape and had a much larger flange than the replacement part, so I kept it.
If anyone is interested I can get a photo and note the part number when I do the other side.
Also kept the strut mount. Everything seemed tight, the bearing was smooth, and I like the design better than the aftermarket ones I bought.
I did the same on my daughters, and it's been fine for another 40K.
Brakes were another story. Rotors have plenty of life, but are real crusty.
Had semi-metallics I believe, (big "C" on the back, didn't note the numbers) look and dust. Going to Akebono's.
I pulled the rotor and caliper bracket to clean and paint them.
Then decided I'd need to do both sides so I pulled the driver side brakes.
Got the rotors and backing plates cleaned and painted.
I'll probably do a surface clean and light coat on the calipers in place, and a little touch up on the backing plates.
I don't want to deal with breaking and sealing the brake lines, I'll plan for it next front brake job.
I'll hit the rotors with a flapper wheel on a grinder before reinstalling with the new pads, to remove the paint overspray and previous brake material so the new ones bed in.
They didn't have any obvious warp prior to removal, there was a little pulse to the pedal at low speeds, but looking at the rotors it's pad transfer spots that some hard braking would probably have removed.
There is a little bit of tear starting in the web of the front right control arm rear bushing, but I'll probably leave it for now. The rest of the ball joints and tie rods still feel pretty tight, and the wheel bearings seem to turn smoothly with no obvious play.
Hopefully the back looks as good as the front, pretty impressive for 235K miles.
I went ahead and replaced the thermostat, it didn't look too bad, but I haven't tested it.
The new one was a recommended Toyota part, but looks a little different, go figure.
I had just replaced the coolant, so I drained it through a paint filter and reused it.
It came out clean, so the internal passages aren't all mucked up.
Started working on paint correction while I had it in the garage, there are ~30 rock chips of various sizes on the front, but they're coming along nicely.
Got three stage touch up paint, and got the first coat on all the prep work.
Also started on the front end. Replaced the passenger strut, lower rubber, and bumper.
The top rubber was in pretty good shape and had a much larger flange than the replacement part, so I kept it.
If anyone is interested I can get a photo and note the part number when I do the other side.
Also kept the strut mount. Everything seemed tight, the bearing was smooth, and I like the design better than the aftermarket ones I bought.
I did the same on my daughters, and it's been fine for another 40K.
Brakes were another story. Rotors have plenty of life, but are real crusty.
Had semi-metallics I believe, (big "C" on the back, didn't note the numbers) look and dust. Going to Akebono's.
I pulled the rotor and caliper bracket to clean and paint them.
Then decided I'd need to do both sides so I pulled the driver side brakes.
Got the rotors and backing plates cleaned and painted.
I'll probably do a surface clean and light coat on the calipers in place, and a little touch up on the backing plates.
I don't want to deal with breaking and sealing the brake lines, I'll plan for it next front brake job.
I'll hit the rotors with a flapper wheel on a grinder before reinstalling with the new pads, to remove the paint overspray and previous brake material so the new ones bed in.
They didn't have any obvious warp prior to removal, there was a little pulse to the pedal at low speeds, but looking at the rotors it's pad transfer spots that some hard braking would probably have removed.
There is a little bit of tear starting in the web of the front right control arm rear bushing, but I'll probably leave it for now. The rest of the ball joints and tie rods still feel pretty tight, and the wheel bearings seem to turn smoothly with no obvious play.
Hopefully the back looks as good as the front, pretty impressive for 235K miles.
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