I have a 2003 RX300 that needs the compressor replaced. One of my questions is, do I have to take out the alternator to do this? I have read that it makes it easier to do so, however from what I read the compressor comes out from the bottom or within the wheel well. My compressor is doing kind of a lock up intermittently when I first start up the vehicle and it only lasts for no more than 5 seconds, however I can smell the belt burning and I am thinking that the belt will not last as long as it should and therefore the compressor needs to be replaced. I have been online everywhere and I cannot find a video showing how to replace the compressor on a 2003 rx300. I have found a few involving the Toyota Highlander, which has the same engine, however not the same engine bay or procedure. Things in the RX are much tighter than the Highlander and are more than likely a little different. If anyone has any kind of experience replacing one of these, or has a link to a video, please let me know!

 

I've been ignoring that few seconds of squeak and some other noises coming from the AC compressor clutch for a while.

I've never done the replacement but the the manual says take the generator out. Looks like the adjusting bracket for it is bolted to the AC compressor

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/att...nditioning.pdf

 

I would also suggest that start with the belt. Make sure the tension is right and the belt does not have a any cracks or shine.

New compressor warranty will require replacing other parts and a system flush.Just check with an AC shop and weigh is it worth a DIY.

Salim

 

I don't know his situation but I get this "belt squeal" sound for about 3-5 seconds right after I make a left out of my driveway and accelerate after cold start. The tension is good and all drive belts were replaced last year. It doesn't always happen, and doesn't happen after that one time. I also get some squeaks and rattles that are definitely tied to the compressor clutch. If I turn it off the noises stop.

Unfortunately it's not easy to change this clutch without removing the compressor. I looked into a compressor replacement but since the A/C is working I figured I could also just ignore it for a few more years.

 

I have a strong suspicion it is the clutch on the compressor, because like I previously stated it only starts locking up briefly after you start the vehicle for 3 to 5 seconds and makes a strange noise then the vehicle runs normal after that. But you will smell the belt burnt pretty much every time after every startup, and therefore the belt will eventually prematurely wear out. If it were an actual locked up compressor, it would be probably constantly locked and not turning at all at any time. I am not getting my hopes up but replacing the clutch while the compressor is intact, because when I have learned recently from replacing the alternator, is there is hardly any room, compared to the ES 300 or ES330. Replacing the alternator in SRX was a pain compared to the sedans. It seems there is more room in the sedans to work with, rather than the RX which is all crammed in. So I am guessing I'm not going to be able to replace this clutch while it is intact, however I am confident that if I take out the alternator to get to the upper bolts of the compressor and loosen the compressor and rotate it in such a way while it's still in the vehicle and not taking off the refrigerant lines, I think I can replace the clutch. My whole goal was not to have to remove the refrigerant lines. Even though I am an ASE Master Certified Technician, and have a refrigerant recovery certification, I just don't want to mess with having to recharge a system. Also, after starting the vehicle in noticing that the compressors stumbles or kind of locks briefly, the AC light flashes on the console. 21 code is the code related to this issue.

 

I had trouble finding just the clutch, post a link if you find one. I've used RY compressors before, don't see a clutch kit there for this car https://www.rycompressors.com/shop/s...x300/3-0l.html

Don't see it on RockAuto either https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ompressor,6628

I don't have any burning smell or code as you describe. What's the theory though? If you disable the compressor does it still happen on startup?

 

The slippage can be due to:
a) excessive load ... so something gives ... bad compressor
b) Not proper engagement

b:
Belt Bad tension. You need a tension gauge.. Lexus has 2 values. New belt and belt that has been used for 15 or more minutes.
Belt has developed a glaze. Once belt has slipped it starts developing a gaze which robs the friction.
cracked belt or poor quality belt.
bad clutch, but then the slippage will break in the clutch and not the belt.

You can soak the belt to overcome some loose tension and glaze.
Overtension increases load and ends up wearing out one of the bearings of the belt train.

Salim
PS: Clutch should be "on" "off" thing. When "on/engaged" it should pass full load to the belt. If you have belt slippage when "on" then the problem is excessive load or belt slippage. When the clutch goes bad, it either fails to engage or partially engages ,,, and in this case the slippage happens at the clutch and not the belt.
Mechanic/tech does not suffer from wishful thinking. The owner/DIY gets drawn into simpler/cheaper fix first.

 

My daughters 99 with 62k miles is sometimes making a high pitch squeal at start. Had her bring it to the house and it appears that it's coming from the ac clutch. Sometimes it makes noise for 5-10 seconds some starts it makes no noise other times it does it for 20 seconds she shuts off the car and turns it back on and no noise. We are in Wisconsin so it's cold out and while I can do it now it's not fun in this cold. The belt was replaced 3 months ago. Will check the tension but looked fine. No glazing or cracking as it's new. Is she ok to drive as is for a bit longer until it warms up some or am I risking her getting stranded?

 

Does it squeal when the temperature outside is below freezing? My understanding is that the compressor will not engage when outside temps are below a certain level. It's also my understanding that the compressor will only engage if: 1) the A/C button is in the on position and the green light is illuminated, 2) the system is in Auto mode and the temperature **** is set at a level that would require the compressor to engage, or 3) the defrost position (front) is selected and the outside temp is above a certain level.
I don't run mine in 'Auto" mode anymore, and in the summer I never start the car with the A/C activated. I wait for a few seconds until the engine rpms come down a little then press the A/C button. If I don't, the compressor doesn't engage smoothly-it clunks instead. Same goes for the defrost mode, I wait several seconds after I've started the vehicle and the engine settles down, then I press the defrost (front) button.

 

Just went out and checked and sure enough her auto button was on as was her AC button. It's 10 degrees outside so it's cold cold. Was -10 yesterday morning. Tightened the belt up a bit so hopefully that gets her through the winter so I can replace the clutch in the spring

 

I just went ahead and replaced the compressor with a new one. The compressor I found out had no oil in it which caused it to lock up. But there had to been a problem with the clutch because when it's cold out air compressor does not run or the AC system does not allow it to kick in however when you first started the vehicle up for about 2-3 seconds it would act as if it was engaging and then it would go away. It tells me something in the clutch was not right and trying to turn the compressor when it wasn't supposed to. Two different problems at the same time I guess!

 

Glad you got its fixed. When the compressor locks up, some thing has to give the clutch or the belt.

Salim

 

Exactly, when the vehicle would first startup between 3 to 4 seconds the compressor seem to be locked up then it would be free after the vehicle is running. However the main serpentine belt, was getting overheated and you could smell it. And when that happens the belt tends to stretch or loosen and I had to retighten the belt once until the new AC compressor arrived. I did find out why the compressor was leaking, when I took off the old one, the compressor itself was completely dry but evidently it takes some overcoming forth to eventually free it. I am guessing that the compressor leaks over time through the front seal behind the pulley?? Before I put this compressor on, like I said before the engine would lock up or hesitate because of the AC compressor not spinning. Ever since I have changed the compressor and alternator it doesn't seem there are nearly any issues however the alternator I replaced with the Toyota original alternator, has if you issues, first off it makes a whining noise subtly. You can hear it, however it's not really annoying. And alternator brand new, should be quiet, however this brand new unit is not. I am guessing they did not set their tolerances or assemble it correctly..

 

How did you do the replacement? From below or up top?

 

From the top. Remove alternator and its right there. Alternator has two bolts and the adjuster. The only PITA is removing the wiring clips in a workmanlike manner.
I just replaced my compressor, which was working without issue, with 220k miles on the clock figured it was time. As someone stated above, no oil poured out of the old compressor. The.AC condenser was damaged, by a deer and freon was dumped instantly. New condnser. As stated, it worked without issue. There was no oil in the condenser either. Not really sure yet where to go with the oil? New compressor had 50 ml of oil in it. The old compressor turns free and no front seal leak...not obviously.
Got to drill the bolt heads off on the high preasure output adaptor. Hate that. Those buggers with the 6mm heads are not cooperating.