Advice for buying 2nd generation RX?
#1
Advice for buying 2nd generation RX?
I'm shopping for 2nd gen 2004-2009 RX in my area. I've noticed that there are relatively more available in the 130-160k mile range, and at lower prices than Toyota. Have I found an opportunity in the market?! Sounds like these can run well into the 200K miles range. Ideally I'd find a single owner RX that has had all it's oil changes. I'm looking to pay 5-7 k for it. Do you all have any advice of what specifically, whether in terms of years or condition, to look for or what to ask about? Or put another way, what would you be looking for if you were in my shoes?
#2
RX330: Try to get 05+ models for the improved rear valve cover. Older models will have an inferior-designed PCV baffle that will clog and cause oil burning. Make sure the transfer case doesn't make any weird noises or bind while you're driving.
RX350: Try to find one with the revised metal rear VVT-i bank 1 oil line and engine oil cooler lines (if applicable - only on tow prep models). See if timing cover on passenger side is leaking (oil pan, and subframe on that side will be wet if so) Listen for VVT-i rattle on cold starts, if it rattles do not buy it. Do not buy the car if it is already warmed up by the time you look at it.
Both: Check CV boots, check power steering rack boots, check all fluids (engine oil, coolant, transmission fluid dipstick), check rear differential side shafts for leaks. check to make sure rear main seal isn't leaking.
I bought mine with 220k miles for cheap as is because it was heavily neglected and had a lot of problems. I ended up fixing most the problems and it is a great, reliable runner. These are pretty easy to wrench on outside of the engine bay and parts are easily available and are pretty cheap. I would try to get a 07-09 350 if possible. That 3.5 engine really makes the difference on these. No timing belt, super stout and ballsy, and the engine is a lot easier to find used if you would ever need a replacement.
RX350: Try to find one with the revised metal rear VVT-i bank 1 oil line and engine oil cooler lines (if applicable - only on tow prep models). See if timing cover on passenger side is leaking (oil pan, and subframe on that side will be wet if so) Listen for VVT-i rattle on cold starts, if it rattles do not buy it. Do not buy the car if it is already warmed up by the time you look at it.
Both: Check CV boots, check power steering rack boots, check all fluids (engine oil, coolant, transmission fluid dipstick), check rear differential side shafts for leaks. check to make sure rear main seal isn't leaking.
I bought mine with 220k miles for cheap as is because it was heavily neglected and had a lot of problems. I ended up fixing most the problems and it is a great, reliable runner. These are pretty easy to wrench on outside of the engine bay and parts are easily available and are pretty cheap. I would try to get a 07-09 350 if possible. That 3.5 engine really makes the difference on these. No timing belt, super stout and ballsy, and the engine is a lot easier to find used if you would ever need a replacement.
Last edited by MattRX; 03-04-23 at 10:45 AM.
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spinellib (03-04-23)
#3
RX330: Try to get 05+ models for the improved rear valve cover. Older models will have an inferior-designed PCV baffle that will clog and cause oil burning. Make sure the transfer case doesn't make any weird noises or bind while you're driving.
RX350: Try to find one with the revised metal rear VVT-i bank 1 oil line and engine oil cooler lines (if applicable - only on tow prep models). See if timing cover on passenger side is leaking (oil pan, and subframe on that side will be wet if so) Listen for VVT-i rattle on cold starts, if it rattles do not buy it. Do not buy the car if it is already warmed up by the time you look at it.
Both: Check CV boots, check power steering rack boots, check all fluids (engine oil, coolant, transmission fluid dipstick), check rear differential side shafts for leaks. check to make sure rear main seal isn't leaking.
I bought mine with 220k miles for cheap as is because it was heavily neglected and had a lot of problems. I ended up fixing most the problems and it is a great, reliable runner. These are pretty easy to wrench on outside of the engine bay and parts are easily available and are pretty cheap. I would try to get a 07-09 350 if possible. That 3.5 engine really makes the difference on these. No timing belt, super stout and ballsy, and the engine is a lot easier to find used if you would ever need a replacement.
RX350: Try to find one with the revised metal rear VVT-i bank 1 oil line and engine oil cooler lines (if applicable - only on tow prep models). See if timing cover on passenger side is leaking (oil pan, and subframe on that side will be wet if so) Listen for VVT-i rattle on cold starts, if it rattles do not buy it. Do not buy the car if it is already warmed up by the time you look at it.
Both: Check CV boots, check power steering rack boots, check all fluids (engine oil, coolant, transmission fluid dipstick), check rear differential side shafts for leaks. check to make sure rear main seal isn't leaking.
I bought mine with 220k miles for cheap as is because it was heavily neglected and had a lot of problems. I ended up fixing most the problems and it is a great, reliable runner. These are pretty easy to wrench on outside of the engine bay and parts are easily available and are pretty cheap. I would try to get a 07-09 350 if possible. That 3.5 engine really makes the difference on these. No timing belt, super stout and ballsy, and the engine is a lot easier to find used if you would ever need a replacement.
#4
Nice. thanks for your advice. I'll narrow down my search to the 07-09 RX 350. I'm really not handy, and can't imagine doing repairs myself. Therefore I'll try to look for a car that hasn't been neglected. What mileage would you say is a decent range for buying used? I'm willing to put 1-3k into it over the next year if needed.
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MattRX (03-04-23)
#5
<150k miles + full service history (one owner, no serious accidents)
PS: Pre-purchase visit of Toyota/Lexus mechanic is highly recommended
#6
130k-160k is what I was going fior as well a few yrs ago. At first I didn't care is it was a 3mz or 2gr powered. Mileage, condition, options packages & color, It took me awhile to find one. One of the last dealers I went to had 6-7 gen2's. He had me drive the first one, as it was the easy to get out vs the one I wanted to drive. One full throttle on the freeway entrance told me to go w/ the 2gr. Even though the 3mz one which I went there for had the color & option pks I could deal with. A few weeks later I found a '07 loaded break water blue w/ 144k under 10k late '19 pre covid19 before the prices went out of control. I had the oil cooler lines replaced as well as the bank one vvti line, of which I picked up the vvit metal line from the dealer on black Friday as for some reason I happened to take that day off & the traffic down the 405 was a breeze. I used the Dorman oil cooler line kit. I also changed the transmission fluid, filter & the rear diff, tranfer case. Used a gallon of Maxlife, Wix trans filter & 2 qtrs of 75-90 Royal Purple for the diff & tranfer case. If it happens to need brakes swap out for the bolt on gen3 front brakes. From what I see every so often 5-7, your not going to find one under 160k. Thats 200k + prices. I'd open your search radius as well.
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MattRX (03-04-23)
#7
I bought a 2009 RX about a year ago
142K, one owner, every service record invoice in a folder, and in really great cosmetic condition. $9K. I put new Michelins on it, aligned it, and changed the oil. Best I can tell no significant parts have ever failed or been replaced...so maybe my number will be up soon. Two things bug me. It does rattle on start up but I still wonder if that is simply oil needing to get up into the motor or the dreaded VVTi stuff. And it is an all wheel drive model and at low speed there is a hum from the trans or differentials. Drives perfect and shifts perfect. The oldest and most miles on a car I've ever owned but maybe the one I like best. Feel like I'm driving a classic. By the way it is a Japan-made car.
My friend just got a new Tesla model Y but I sort of like the funky level of tech with ***** in my RX.
My friend just got a new Tesla model Y but I sort of like the funky level of tech with ***** in my RX.
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Felix (03-06-23)
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#8
142K, one owner, every service record invoice in a folder, and in really great cosmetic condition. $9K. I put new Michelins on it, aligned it, and changed the oil. Best I can tell no significant parts have ever failed or been replaced...so maybe my number will be up soon. Two things bug me. It does rattle on start up but I still wonder if that is simply oil needing to get up into the motor or the dreaded VVTi stuff. And it is an all wheel drive model and at low speed there is a hum from the trans or differentials. Drives perfect and shifts perfect. The oldest and most miles on a car I've ever owned but maybe the one I like best. Feel like I'm driving a classic. By the way it is a Japan-made car.
My friend just got a new Tesla model Y but I sort of like the funky level of tech with ***** in my RX.
My friend just got a new Tesla model Y but I sort of like the funky level of tech with ***** in my RX.
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lexus101qu (03-08-23)
#9
I've found one that fits the bill. However, their VVTI line burst while driving about 20k miles ago. He says they stopped driving once they knew something was wrong, pulled over and turned it off. Turned back on and something was wrong, so they immediately turned it off again. Had it towed. Mechanic said it was leaking abd, good thing they stipped. Then replaced the lines. Would you pass on this car, considering it had an event like that in its history?
RX330: Try to get 05+ models for the improved rear valve cover. Older models will have an inferior-designed PCV baffle that will clog and cause oil burning. Make sure the transfer case doesn't make any weird noises or bind while you're driving.
RX350: Try to find one with the revised metal rear VVT-i bank 1 oil line and engine oil cooler lines (if applicable - only on tow prep models). See if timing cover on passenger side is leaking (oil pan, and subframe on that side will be wet if so) Listen for VVT-i rattle on cold starts, if it rattles do not buy it. Do not buy the car if it is already warmed up by the time you look at it.
Both: Check CV boots, check power steering rack boots, check all fluids (engine oil, coolant, transmission fluid dipstick), check rear differential side shafts for leaks. check to make sure rear main seal isn't leaking.
I bought mine with 220k miles for cheap as is because it was heavily neglected and had a lot of problems. I ended up fixing most the problems and it is a great, reliable runner. These are pretty easy to wrench on outside of the engine bay and parts are easily available and are pretty cheap. I would try to get a 07-09 350 if possible. That 3.5 engine really makes the difference on these. No timing belt, super stout and ballsy, and the engine is a lot easier to find used if you would ever need a replacement.
RX350: Try to find one with the revised metal rear VVT-i bank 1 oil line and engine oil cooler lines (if applicable - only on tow prep models). See if timing cover on passenger side is leaking (oil pan, and subframe on that side will be wet if so) Listen for VVT-i rattle on cold starts, if it rattles do not buy it. Do not buy the car if it is already warmed up by the time you look at it.
Both: Check CV boots, check power steering rack boots, check all fluids (engine oil, coolant, transmission fluid dipstick), check rear differential side shafts for leaks. check to make sure rear main seal isn't leaking.
I bought mine with 220k miles for cheap as is because it was heavily neglected and had a lot of problems. I ended up fixing most the problems and it is a great, reliable runner. These are pretty easy to wrench on outside of the engine bay and parts are easily available and are pretty cheap. I would try to get a 07-09 350 if possible. That 3.5 engine really makes the difference on these. No timing belt, super stout and ballsy, and the engine is a lot easier to find used if you would ever need a replacement.
#10
RX330: Try to get 05+ models for the improved rear valve cover. Older models will have an inferior-designed PCV baffle that will clog and cause oil burning. Make sure the transfer case doesn't make any weird noises or bind while you're driving.
RX350: Try to find one with the revised metal rear VVT-i bank 1 oil line and engine oil cooler lines (if applicable - only on tow prep models). See if timing cover on passenger side is leaking (oil pan, and subframe on that side will be wet if so) Listen for VVT-i rattle on cold starts, if it rattles do not buy it. Do not buy the car if it is already warmed up by the time you look at it.
Both: Check CV boots, check power steering rack boots, check all fluids (engine oil, coolant, transmission fluid dipstick), check rear differential side shafts for leaks. check to make sure rear main seal isn't leaking.
I bought mine with 220k miles for cheap as is because it was heavily neglected and had a lot of problems. I ended up fixing most the problems and it is a great, reliable runner. These are pretty easy to wrench on outside of the engine bay and parts are easily available and are pretty cheap. I would try to get a 07-09 350 if possible. That 3.5 engine really makes the difference on these. No timing belt, super stout and ballsy, and the engine is a lot easier to find used if you would ever need a replacement.
RX350: Try to find one with the revised metal rear VVT-i bank 1 oil line and engine oil cooler lines (if applicable - only on tow prep models). See if timing cover on passenger side is leaking (oil pan, and subframe on that side will be wet if so) Listen for VVT-i rattle on cold starts, if it rattles do not buy it. Do not buy the car if it is already warmed up by the time you look at it.
Both: Check CV boots, check power steering rack boots, check all fluids (engine oil, coolant, transmission fluid dipstick), check rear differential side shafts for leaks. check to make sure rear main seal isn't leaking.
I bought mine with 220k miles for cheap as is because it was heavily neglected and had a lot of problems. I ended up fixing most the problems and it is a great, reliable runner. These are pretty easy to wrench on outside of the engine bay and parts are easily available and are pretty cheap. I would try to get a 07-09 350 if possible. That 3.5 engine really makes the difference on these. No timing belt, super stout and ballsy, and the engine is a lot easier to find used if you would ever need a replacement.
130k-160k is what I was going fior as well a few yrs ago. At first I didn't care is it was a 3mz or 2gr powered. Mileage, condition, options packages & color, It took me awhile to find one. One of the last dealers I went to had 6-7 gen2's. He had me drive the first one, as it was the easy to get out vs the one I wanted to drive. One full throttle on the freeway entrance told me to go w/ the 2gr. Even though the 3mz one which I went there for had the color & option pks I could deal with. A few weeks later I found a '07 loaded break water blue w/ 144k under 10k late '19 pre covid19 before the prices went out of control. I had the oil cooler lines replaced as well as the bank one vvti line, of which I picked up the vvit metal line from the dealer on black Friday as for some reason I happened to take that day off & the traffic down the 405 was a breeze. I used the Dorman oil cooler line kit. I also changed the transmission fluid, filter & the rear diff, tranfer case. Used a gallon of Maxlife, Wix trans filter & 2 qtrs of 75-90 Royal Purple for the diff & tranfer case. If it happens to need brakes swap out for the bolt on gen3 front brakes. From what I see every so often 5-7, your not going to find one under 160k. Thats 200k + prices. I'd open your search radius as well.
#11
3MZ is the 3.3 L engine and the 2GR-FE is the new 3.5 L V6 engine introduced for the RX350. Despite these two engines being in the same body style of car, they couldn't be any more different. They both have their disadvantages and advantages, but having experience with both the MZ and GR, I prefer the newer V6. Older engine is a little easier to work on, but it is less fuel efficient, MUCH less powerful, and harder to find used if you should need a replacement. The 3.5 was used for many more years in many cars, the 3.3 was only used in a few.
#12
Has a tape player that works perfectly!!! Just heard my Dead Kennedys again.
And other enjoyable “older” but nice features.
This engine 3.6 2GR-FE is solid. I don’t like the sluggish electronic throttle body response though.
Nice older car. Had good care all along the way.
#14
I've found one that fits the bill. However, their VVTI line burst while driving about 20k miles ago. He says they stopped driving once they knew something was wrong, pulled over and turned it off. Turned back on and something was wrong, so they immediately turned it off again. Had it towed. Mechanic said it was leaking abd, good thing they stipped. Then replaced the lines. Would you pass on this car, considering it had an event like that in its history?
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