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But I successfully program the immobilize for that key. And I can use it to start the car. I just couldn't get the remote work. So I don't think it's because the car had reached its maximum key,right???
You are assuming something and that is always a bad thing. You need to check, not assume .
The immobilizer and the key fob are 2 separate things. I don't know if Toyota programmed the immobilizer for a maximum of 4 keys like they did for the key fobs. So try doing step 7c and see what the indication is..
Did you try programming the key fob several times? Many people have problems and re-trying the programming procedure will work. One of the biggest confusions is when the procedure says to do someting quickly (or slowly), people might not use the proper speed.
You are assuming something and that is always a bad thing. You need to check, not assume .
The immobilizer and the key fob are 2 separate things. I don't know if Toyota programmed the immobilizer for a maximum of 4 keys like they did for the key fobs. So try doing step 7c and see what the indication is..
Did you try programming the key fob several times? Many people have problems and re-trying the programming procedure will work. One of the biggest confusions is when the procedure says to do someting quickly (or slowly), people might not use the proper speed.
Oh, okay, I'll try to check it. When I do step 7c, how do I know how many keys were programmed? Based on the security light or something? Just want to make sure I won't do it wrong! Thank you for your help!
Before I try Denis Miks excellent programming instructions, I haven't come across an answer to a possible problem with sister's 2004 RX330 remotes. They are the original, OEM issue. Neither was working. Replaced CRC 2016 batteries with new Everready coin cells. They measured 3.27 V. BUT, the old Panasonic 2016s were 3.07 & 3.03 V. SO, my guess batteries weren't the issue?
Problem is, battery replacement didn't fix remote functionality. I asked parts guy at dealer. He convinced me to check batteries orientation. OK, but the remotes are really nice with gold flashed contacts. Embossed in plastic "Positive UP" as I did. And logically, only way to make contacts work. Yep, batteries were correctly oriented.
So, long way of asking, is 20 years as long as these LEDs last? Remotes weren't used for a while (one lost in a jacket). Is lack of LED illuminating upon button push indicative of failed remote? Failed button? If any of the above is bad news, is there an economical rebuilder? Or, just get aftermarket?
Battery at one time drained (BIL failed to hook up simple extension cord to on board charger I installed) judging by the HID icon in dash illuminated. Lexus USA has those headlights revert to "worm burner" status upon power loss. BTDT too many times.
Never had the remotes lose programming before.
I'm also afraid that possible leaking sunroof drains might have corrupted something. The underhood 15 Amp fuse was good for the ECM, but swapped with nearby 15 A circuit. To no effect. Is there a specific fuse for a body control module?
Thank you for any guidance. Especially if question answered before. Search didn't turn up any.
The led on the keyfob should light up when any button is pressed whether the remote is programmed to the car or not. Could the led be "burned out"? Of course it could - it is made by man. But in spite of being designed and made by man, leds do have a pretty long lifespan and because the led is not being used 99.9999% of the time, it should last a really, really long time - longer than you.
Is the led failing to light up on all the buttons? On both keyfobs? That would be very strange, But the led not lighting is an indication that the keyfob is not working, not a failure of the programming procedure. Our keyfobs do not use capacitive touch buttons like a tv remote, they use actual mechanical switches.
Are there any any keyfobs that are working on the car right now?
I really don't know what is happening, so I can't give you a definite "do this" answer. You could try opening up the keyfob and separating the battery/printed circuit board from the buttons and cleaning any dust or dirt or whatever out of it using a soft brush.
Comment regarding the voltage checking of lithium batteries. Unlike other previous battery types, the voltage reading on a lithium battery will appear good until the battery is almost stone cold dead. You need to measure the current output of the battery, which very few of us are equipped to do. So it is cheaper to just buy another battery than a tester.
07-08-23, 09:57 AM
